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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 2:04 pm Post subject: Fungus |
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trev wrote:
Apart from the sun (of which we see very little in this part of N Wales) what other sources are there of UV light to kill fungus?
TIA _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
UV lamps, the ones you can get from pet stores (for reptiles).
But since UV light is often blockes by the glass elements, success is not guaranteed. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
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Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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sammo
Joined: 04 Jan 2012 Posts: 223 Location: CH and SI
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:24 pm Post subject: |
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sammo wrote:
UV LEDs maybe worth a try? They have more focused light, so you can direct them into the lens. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
I use a small UV fluo lamp of 4W, it was formerly used to erase EPROM memories. Similar lamps were used for chirurgical equipment disinfection.
It's like a standard fluo. You have only to add a ballast and a starter and put it into a tight closure box, with a switch on the lid so the UV lamp gets disconnected when you pull the lid up. UV radiation is very dangerous for the human eyes, may easily harm the retinae.
Regards.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
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Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well keeping a lens in a dry place and the fungus wont get worse and will die eventually, but I suppose you want to kill it ASAP. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 8:50 am Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
Personally I cannot see any in my lens, a Vivitar 19mm. But having had it returned by a buyer as having fungus I thought Id check. BTW. he used a Canon eos 5iii with an adapter, my lens is in FD fitting. _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 11:27 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
trev wrote: |
Personally I cannot see any in my lens, a Vivitar 19mm. But having had it returned by a buyer as having fungus I thought Id check. BTW. he used a Canon eos 5iii with an adapter, my lens is in FD fitting. |
Shame the buyer doesn't come to this forum as I'm sure we all agree that a bit of fungus or dust doesn't make any difference in results....maybe he was a collector\investor and wanted a perfect lens. h'mm and surely a fd lens will not work on a EOS mount, and another reason why he should come here. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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trev
Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
Lens is more or less like new - he said that the lens caused some "fuzzyness" around the edges.
Lens can be used on eos cameras with appropriate adapter which causes a loss of detail though.
I have an oldish vivitar series 1 19-35 af lens which I used on my 1n, the front element is scratched but it doesnt cause any loss of detail provided I keep the sun (a rarity here) out of the frame. _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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David wrote:
One thing to bear in mind with fungus when killing it via UV: It takes a LOT of UV, so a tanning bed is a good option. I did this with a lens and afterward the fungus stopped growing for six months. Then new spots appeared and grew even faster.
Mold colonies release chemicals called mycotoxins. These chemicals are sort of like chemical armies that fight other mold colonies to keep them from growing. So when the original mold colony died, it stopped releasing mycotoxins. The fungal spores on the lens that had been held in check then went crazy and a number of new colonies grew. This caused an imbalance that led to more fungal growth and more colonies and caused a lens that was otherwise okay to have enough fungus that the performance was impaired.
Oops. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7776 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 10:25 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
From the Carl Zeiss website -
http://www.zeiss.com/camera-lenses/en_de/website/service/fungus_on_lenses.html
Service Info:Zeiss
Fungus On Lenses
Fungus means an Infestation of optical instruments with fungus spores which germinate and produce more spores.
Lens surfaces are irreparably damaged by metabolic products of the fungus (e.g. acids). Its damage ranges from cloudiness to opacity caused by the film. The Carl Zeiss T* coating has no significant influence on fungus growth or generation of spores.
Where does fungus come from?
Fungus spores are everywhere and germinate under suitable environmental conditions:
Growing conditions
Relative humidity of at least 70% (more than 3 days)
No or little airflow
Darkness
Nutrients (textile lint, traces of grease, varnish, dust and dirt)
Temperatures between 10 and 35°C
How can fungus be avoided?
Reduce the relative humidity to less than 60% (never under 30% as it is dangerous for the instrument) by storing:
in climate-control cabinets in which hygrometers maintain environmental conditions
next to driers (e.g. silicagel orange packs) in the containers
in a special cabinet whose interior is heated to 40°C (max. 50°C) using a fan heater/ incandescent lamps, thereby reducing the relative humidity
in hermetically sealed cabinets with fungicides with high vapor pressure (fungicide depot must be replaced at regular intervals)
in an dehydrator above driers
After the work is done, Immediately clean the instruments. If possible, you can use a fan to facilitate evaporation of surface moisture. Do not use containers made of leather, textiles or wood for storage. Short solar radiation or irradiation with UV light may also help avoiding fungus.
How can fungus be removed?
Note: In general, Carl Zeiss does not accept instruments infested by fungus.
Clean affected surfaces with a cotton wiper that has been soaked with a disinfectant. You can build your cotton wiper, using cotton wrapped around a toothpickin such a way that a ball with a peak forms on the pointy end of the stick. Use pure cotton, no prepared or impregnated cotton. Strongly rub slightly corroded optical surfaces with an optical cleaning cloth, cigarette ash can be used as a polishing aid. Heavily corroded optical surfaces must be replaced. Fungus infestation in the interior of an instrument can only be eliminated through disassembly of the instrument. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
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