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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 215
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:29 am Post subject: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
I plan on buying one that has a working light meter anyway, (i need it for a class at school), but I like the idea of taking my current Spotmatic body, and working on it and fixing the light meter. How much do you think it would cost, and how difficult is it to figure out what exactly is wrong and then fix the problem? Is it worth it (cost effective) to just get it CLA'd and be done with it? _________________ Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:35 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I might be able to help, I have some spare parts if you need them. What exactly is wrong with the meter? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:01 am Post subject: Re: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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Excalibur wrote:
gearsNcogs wrote: |
I plan on buying one that has a working light meter anyway, (i need it for a class at school), but I like the idea of taking my current Spotmatic body, and working on it and fixing the light meter. How much do you think it would cost, and how difficult is it to figure out what exactly is wrong and then fix the problem? Is it worth it (cost effective) to just get it CLA'd and be done with it? |
You could buy a separate exposure meter cheap and set the camera to that (it would impress other students using it ), and also your DSLR can take readings. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 215
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:02 am Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
I might be able to help, I have some spare parts if you need them. What exactly is wrong with the meter? |
I'm not sure. i bought a new battery for it and it doesn't work, so i have to figure out whats wrong with it. any suggestions as to how i'd go about doing that? _________________ Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 215
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:04 am Post subject: Re: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
gearsNcogs wrote: |
I plan on buying one that has a working light meter anyway, (i need it for a class at school), but I like the idea of taking my current Spotmatic body, and working on it and fixing the light meter. How much do you think it would cost, and how difficult is it to figure out what exactly is wrong and then fix the problem? Is it worth it (cost effective) to just get it CLA'd and be done with it? |
You could buy a separate exposure meter cheap and set the camera to that (it would impress other students using it ), and also your DSLR can take readings. |
haha, i've been using my DSLR, but its been a little bit of a pain carrying around 2 cameras (although it worked really well, so if nothing else, its a decent fall back plan ) _________________ Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 10:42 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
gearsNcogs wrote: |
peterqd wrote: |
I might be able to help, I have some spare parts if you need them. What exactly is wrong with the meter? |
I'm not sure. i bought a new battery for it and it doesn't work, so i have to figure out whats wrong with it. any suggestions as to how i'd go about doing that? |
First thing to check is the polarity. Positive goes into the camera first, negative contacts the cap. Here is the battery in place:
Did you use a battery with an insulating collar like in the pic? This is necessary to keep the battery centred and prevent it from shorting out. If not you can use a small rubber ring or a coil of plastic covered wire etc.
Also make sure the spring battery contact in the camera is clean and hasn't been bent downwards too far. This is fairly common. You can bend it back up with any small tool. _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Sat Jan 29, 2011 1:58 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5027 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 1:36 pm Post subject: Re: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
You could buy a separate exposure meter cheap |
Where do you get them cheap? I've been searching cheap meters but most (modern) under $100 meters give just absolute light (lumen?) values. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 215
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
gearsNcogs wrote: |
peterqd wrote: |
I might be able to help, I have some spare parts if you need them. What exactly is wrong with the meter? |
I'm not sure. i bought a new battery for it and it doesn't work, so i have to figure out whats wrong with it. any suggestions as to how i'd go about doing that? |
First thing to check is the polarity. Positive goes into the camera first, negative contacts the cap. Here is the battery in place:
Did you use a battery with an insulating collar like in the pic? This is necessary to keep the battery centred and prevent it from shorting out. If not you can use a small rubber ring or a coil of plastic covered wire etc.
Also make sure the spring battery contact in the camera is clean and hasn't been bent downwards too far. This is fairly common. You can bend it back up with any small tool. |
The battery i have has a black rubber ring around the positive pole. Thanks for the advice. i'll check out the battery contacts when i get back home. _________________ Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10463 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
The ' Exposure meter switch' contacts tarnish over time. The contacts are semi-self-cleaning -- operate switch a few times to wipe away tarnish that may be preventing good conduction.
Another place that tarnishes is inside the adjustment resistors, but those are inside the camera. Turn to wipe away tarnish, but then sensitive test equipment is needed to re-adjust.
A good cla does much more than fix the meter only. Camera is restored and adjusted to factory specs, should last another 25 years. But the camera as-is may last another 25 years! Hopeful the suggestions for fixing the easy stuff work for your camera.
Spotmatic metering circuit diagram
The Official Pentax Service Manual is available for free online. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses:
Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200
Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300
Macro-Takumar 1:4/50
Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm
Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element),
Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500
Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100
Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
Other lenses:
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Jan 29, 2011 11:13 pm Post subject: Re: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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Excalibur wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
You could buy a separate exposure meter cheap |
Where do you get them cheap? I've been searching cheap meters but most (modern) under $100 meters give just absolute light (lumen?) values. |
Something like this and you don't need a battery:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Vintage-Photography-Exposure-Meter-Weston-Master-V-/260726597017?pt=UK_Photography_OtherAccess_RL&hash=item3cb4842599
Also Weston model III and IV are good as well, but I've seen Japanese or Russian exposure meters go for peanuts. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5027 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:37 am Post subject: Re: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
I've seen Japanese or Russian exposure meters go for peanuts. |
They are as useful too.
I mean I would like to have a simple new exposure meter, but cheapest is Sekonic L-201 and it is over 100€ and it is still a miniature. _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 215
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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 8:48 am Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
So! i pulled on the spring battery contact out a bit, and i put in the battery, and the light meter seems to work! well, it responds to light. the problem is, it seems to respond in the exact opposite manner as to what it should. when i open up the aperture, the needle points down towards the -, and when i stop down it goes up towards the +.
My question at this point is, does the light meter say "you need less light" when it goes down towards the negative and "you need more light" when it goes up towards the positive? or is my light meter actually backwards? _________________ Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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eeyore_nl
Joined: 09 Nov 2008 Posts: 837 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:11 am Post subject: |
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eeyore_nl wrote:
gearsNcogs wrote: |
My question at this point is, does the light meter say "you need less light" when it goes down towards the negative and "you need more light" when it goes up towards the positive? or is my light meter actually backwards? |
The needle should go up when you over-expose. _________________ Fujifilm X-Pro2 / Fujifilm X-T1 / some Sonnar & Takumar lenses |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010 Posts: 215
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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:15 am Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
eeyore_nl wrote: |
gearsNcogs wrote: |
My question at this point is, does the light meter say "you need less light" when it goes down towards the negative and "you need more light" when it goes up towards the positive? or is my light meter actually backwards? |
The needle should go up when you over-expose. |
thats what i thought. so this begs the question...what could possibly be making it read entirely backwards? _________________ Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:29 am Post subject: Re: Fixing a Spotmatic Light Meter: how difficult is it? |
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Excalibur wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
I've seen Japanese or Russian exposure meters go for peanuts. |
They are as useful too.
I mean I would like to have a simple new exposure meter, but cheapest is Sekonic L-201 and it is over 100€ and it is still a miniature. |
The idea was to spend about £5-£15 for a second-hand exposure meter rather than have an old camera repaired because the light meter is not working. My Pentax S3 doesn't have a built in light meter and no way today would I spend 100 euros for an exposure meter to use it. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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