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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 230 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 8:56 pm Post subject: How to learn lens maintanance? |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
Hey folks...
I'd like to ask you how can I start learning lens maintenance. I'm asking this because I'm too tired of being ripped off by lens technicians here in Brazil.
Or they are very expensive, or they just don't know how to fix something in the lens, or they just say "I only fix Canon or Nikon lenses!!"
I'm really really tired of this... so the only thing I can do is learn how to do this thing...
I would like to ask you: first, good books that cover this... like "Lens optics for dummies" then something more specific like fixing lenses itself... but I think I must know something about the principle of optics, physics etc, right? I have no problem with that...
Then... what tools are necessary? how can I clean a lens with fungus? How can I lube a focus mechanism? what kind of lube is necessary? Where can I get lens schemes?
I have lots of lenses to start learning, that would not be a problem...lol
Thanks!!
_________________ Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
www.planoconjunto.com.br
Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1633 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:20 pm Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
Ok, I would suggest you read all the pages linked here on my website:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
During that you make some practice with your lenses at hand.
Afterwards you could buy some books here:
http://www.micro-tools.de/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=Eng&Category_Code=BOA
And buy and read some service manuals for lenses and old Camera Craftsman magazins
But in fact I suppose practice with cheap lenses, some reading on the internet would probably help you enough. That is mainly what I did.
A bit of optics would be good too - but I think as far as you understand a bit about principle planes it is enough - you won't design lenses at your own.
Don´t start with lenses you love! _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3215 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
Trial and error.
Buy a 5 dollar japanese prime, take it apart, put it back.
See what parts you have left. _________________ Moderator Himself |
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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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William wrote:
Seconded on the primes. Zooms are a lot more complicated. |
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hinnerker
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 929 Location: Germany near Kiel
Expire: 2015-08-09
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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hinnerker wrote:
This is a good starting point.. you can find a lot of informations, advices in forum etc.. walk around in this endless spaces of the website..
have a look in the archives.. etc.. there you will find cameras, lenses etc..
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/16440.html?1252961141
Cheers
Henry _________________ some light-painting lens stuff..
... and an EOS 5D MKII
www.digicamclub.de |
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 230 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:54 pm Post subject: |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
Wow! thanks a lot for all of you! that's why I love this forum!
I have some cheap japanese 28mm lenses and some Minoltas with fungus that I can start practicing _________________ Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
www.planoconjunto.com.br
Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Posts: 1397 Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2010 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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ludoo wrote:
You don't need many tools:
* a lens spanner is mandatory; you can also skimp and use a compass of the kind used in construction and carpentry, essentially like a drawing compass but sturdier and with two fixed points
* a set of good jeweler's screwdrivers is essential, don't be cheap on them as if you strip a screw the lens is done
* some kind of rubber tools to grip the front rings, lots of people use sink rubber caps
* a rocket blower, you can buy the specialized ones or get one from a pharmacy, they are used to inject liquid in ears/bottoms etc. you get the picture)
* a soft brush
* q-tips, the cotton buds used to clean ears
To clean fungus, the easiestand most reliable method I've used is ponds cream (hands cream, Nivea would work, I use a cheap one named Leocrema). It absolutely zaps fungus, does not damage coatings even on old lenses, is not toxic (of course it isn't) and often works to remove other kinds of impurities too. I then clean it with Zippo lighter fuel, and a last pass of pure acetone (the one sold in paint stores, not the one used by ladies which is full of oils). Careful with acetone, it burns easil and is very toxic.
To regrease helicoids, I clean the old grease with the same lighter fuel as above and lots of q-tips, then use white lithium grease of the kind you find at auto parts stores.
Read past threads on lens repair here and look around for the tutorials on repairing well know lenses, and you'll understand the basic principles. The try with cheap lenses you don't care much about, and a) go slowly, b) take lots of pictures. _________________ My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
altroformato
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 230 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:15 am Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Rubber is ok, spanner is crap I have to set from them , this spanner is not enough precise , easy to make damage with it. I don't know you can find better or not. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8982 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 3:45 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
I finally bought the Giottos large rocket blower,cleaned the dust right off the sensor...I do not regret spending the money.$14 is a good price I paid $27 delivered _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:05 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
All good advice above, particularly on tools.
Some more -
Instead of the rubber tools set, used for removing rings, you can also look for crutch tips in your hardware store. They come in several sizes.
Also, for look for plastic, copper or iron pipe and liquid rubber, you can make any size of rubber lens tool.
Brass strip, very useful for all kinds of repairs and conversions.
Pin vise, like these -
http://www.micromark.com/SWIVEL-HEAD-PIN-VISE,6730.html
And drills and taps to go with them -
http://www.micromark.com/Drill-Bits-Taps-Dies-and-Reamers.html
Very useful to remove and replace those screws you will destroy.
Small plastic clamps are very useful to assemble aperture leaves -
http://www.micromark.com/MINIATURE-SPRING-CLAMPS-3and4-CAPACITY-SET-OF-6,8211.html
Strangely, I have found these a very useful tool -
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945570000P
And of course, expect to lose a few lenses. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 5:34 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Well, I'll echo Luis -- good suggestions. And I'll add a few of my own.
Lighter fluid is also known as naphtha. You can buy a 1 quart can (or metric equivalent) of Naphtha for not much more than what a small bottle of the Ronsonol lighter fluid costs. Ditto with acetone vs. naill polish remover -- basically the same thing, but the acetone in the qt. can is cheaper.
For re-attaching camera leatherettes and sometimes lens rubbers, you'll need to use a flexible cement. An old camera repair instructor I had swore by Pliobond. It can be hard to find sometimes, in which case contact cement will work as a decent substitute. Personally I can't tell the difference between the two.
I got started repairing cameras and lenses when I was a camera dealer some twenty-odd years ago. Every once in a while I'd get a lens or camera that had a problem, and being reasonably mechanically inclined, decided just to jump in and give it a go. About this same time, I came across a camera repair class at a local community college and attended it for a couple of semesters. It was taught by an old guy who'd been repairing cameras all his life -- probably since the 1940s. Not very organized. We just brought projects in and asked questions when we got stuck. So, it was all hands-on stuff. Honestly I didn't learn all that much in the class -- mostly because I didn't get stuck that often, I guess, and because I was careful when I bought used gear and was really cautious about the sort of broken gear I was willing to buy.
So I think the advice you've been given about just giving it a go once you've gotten some tools is very valuable. I found it helped to take good notes. Nowadays it's easy to document the dismantlement process with a digital camera. Use it.
Another interenet resource I always like to recommend for people who are willing to do their own repairs is the following one. There are some well respected repair folks who frequent the forum. They've helped me out more than once when I've gotten stuck. Click on "Maintenance and Repair."
http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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blende8
Joined: 29 Sep 2007 Posts: 260 Location: Bremen, Germany
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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2010 7:50 am Post subject: |
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blende8 wrote:
And, important:
Whatever you do, make photos!
It helps a lot to get it back together. _________________ Best wishes, Wieland
K-1, K-5IIs
Pentax, mysterium quod absconditum fuit ... |
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 230 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 12:41 am Post subject: |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
Thank you for all the replies!
Where can I find some free service manuals to download? I bought some on Ebay, but I think that maybe I could find somewhere for free...
thanks! _________________ Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
www.planoconjunto.com.br
Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1633 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 8:35 am Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
On my before mentioned site you will find some links to sites with service manuals:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Repair manuals are also available from here:
http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi
(Same link as the last one I posted)
Look at the top row of menu choices and select "Repair Manuals." You have to be a member of the forum, though, because the files are password protected. You'll get access to the password once you've joined. Also, I'd recommend you post a message in the repair forum asking about manuals. I did a while back for my Yashica 124, and one of the members gave me directions to a file at his website that had exacty what I was looking for. I've also found repair manuals on eBay and by googling for them, which sometimes shows them available for free. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 230 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
ludoo wrote: |
You don't need many tools:
* a lens spanner is mandatory; you can also skimp and use a compass of the kind used in construction and carpentry, essentially like a drawing compass but sturdier and with two fixed points
* a set of good jeweler's screwdrivers is essential, don't be cheap on them as if you strip a screw the lens is done
* some kind of rubber tools to grip the front rings, lots of people use sink rubber caps
* a rocket blower, you can buy the specialized ones or get one from a pharmacy, they are used to inject liquid in ears/bottoms etc. you get the picture)
* a soft brush
* q-tips, the cotton buds used to clean ears
To clean fungus, the easiestand most reliable method I've used is ponds cream (hands cream, Nivea would work, I use a cheap one named Leocrema). It absolutely zaps fungus, does not damage coatings even on old lenses, is not toxic (of course it isn't) and often works to remove other kinds of impurities too. I then clean it with Zippo lighter fuel, and a last pass of pure acetone (the one sold in paint stores, not the one used by ladies which is full of oils). Careful with acetone, it burns easil and is very toxic.
To regrease helicoids, I clean the old grease with the same lighter fuel as above and lots of q-tips, then use white lithium grease of the kind you find at auto parts stores.
Read past threads on lens repair here and look around for the tutorials on repairing well know lenses, and you'll understand the basic principles. The try with cheap lenses you don't care much about, and a) go slowly, b) take lots of pictures. |
Hey, let me know if this cream would work... I bought one of these:
And I also bought the Zippo lighter fuel...now I have to look for the acetone...
My first lens will be a Rodenstock enlarger lens, it looks like a simple lens and there is some fungus...then I will go for the more complex lenses.
Now a last question... what's the name of that blue thing that some techs use over the table? it looks like rubber... is it necessary? and what about gloves?
thanks again! _________________ Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
www.planoconjunto.com.br
Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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Ivan Lee
Joined: 03 Feb 2008 Posts: 230 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brazil
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Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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Ivan Lee wrote:
Hey! it's me again =D
I have started my little project... the first victim is a Minolta MC Rokkor 135mm 2.8 with fungus. But I have some questions:
1- I can't figure it out how to dissassembly the lens elements completely. I opened the 135mm with the Spanner, then I removed 2 blocks with it looks like 2 or 3 lenses inside. Now I can't dissassembly these blocks...(one of the blocks I could unscrew one side, but not the other, even with my full strenght!!!) even so I could remove some fungus that was in the elements that I could have access.
2- As ludoo said, I used the Nivea cream with a Q-tip on the element, then I removed with zippo lighter fuel. I think it worked... but is this correct? to use with Q-tips? How much time is necessary to leave the cream on the lens?
3- There's some fungus in the inner housing of the lens (in the metal) what's the best method to remove these?
thanks again! _________________ Ivan Lee Barcellos - Director of Photography
www.planoconjunto.com.br
Sony A7s
Lumix GH3
Minolta MC: Minolta MC 24/2.8 - Minolta MD 28/2 - Minolta MC 35/1.8 - Minolta MC 35/2.8 - Minolta MD 50/1.2 - Minolta MD Macro 50/3.5 - Minolta MD 100/2.5
Konica AR: Hexanon 28/3.5 - Hexanon 50/1.7 - Hexanon 57/1.4
M42: Industar 50-2 - CZ Pancolar 50/1.8
Olympus OM: Zuiko Auto-Macro 50/3.5 - Vivitar 28/2 Close Focus |
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