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new skin for lenses
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 11:15 am    Post subject: new skin for lenses Reply with quote
I'm sure this isn't anything new for some of you guys, but it's time to add a new skin to angenieux lens, and also a hood, so what kind of rubber vinyl could recommend me in this case? Thanks


PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I prefer 3m carbon fiber film .


PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
It would be my first dyi project, what kind should I buy? This kind of vinyl can shrink with heat?


PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
There are many choices including different colors and texture. Most of them is ready to stick. Here is an example https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004078485878.html . You should be able to find it cheap on different places. They are frequently used in cars https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Black-Carbon-Release-Technology/dp/B00L9J4JRG .

You need those with rough texture if you want to use them on focusing ring.


PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 3:07 pm    Post subject: Re: new skin for lenses Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
I'm sure this isn't anything new for some of you guys, but it's time to add a new skin to angenieux lens, and also a hood, so what kind of rubber vinyl could recommend me in this case? Thanks


Have a look at JapanHobbyTool. Not cheap, but they have some harder-to-find textures:

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-leather

They do flocking for hoods as well:

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-repair-material/products/light-trap-material


PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2024 4:10 pm    Post subject: Re: new skin for lenses Reply with quote
RokkorDoctor wrote:
Have a look at JapanHobbyTool. Not cheap, but they have some harder-to-find textures:

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-leather


How come they only have "OM Zuiko" type, and no "MD Minolta type"?? Are they against diversity?? I'm deeply offended!!

Laugh 1


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: new skin for lenses Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote:
Have a look at JapanHobbyTool. Not cheap, but they have some harder-to-find textures:

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-leather


How come they only have "OM Zuiko" type, and no "MD Minolta type"?? Are they against diversity?? I'm deeply offended!!

Laugh 1


MC-X/MD and MDIII style-matching waffle is hard to find.

I managed to get my hands on a very small amount of new factory-original MDIII style waffle vinyl, but I haven't found any old supplies of MC-X/MD style waffle vinyl.

If you want to maintain the original aesthetics, the best bet is to scavenge it from old Minolta lenses sold for parts.


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
The only lenses that really make problems when t comes to their rubber focusing grip are the Mamyia ES lenses (for the XTL series). They really tend o decay in several (if not many) small parts, especially in the cold. Occasionally also their (later) Mamiya SX series has loose focuisng rubber grips, and RE Topcors may suffer from the same illness too. I've never had any problems with Minolta MC-X/MD-I/-II/-III rubber parts (same for AR Hexanons BTW).

S


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thank you guys for the recommendation, finally I'm thinking of painting the whole body - would some kind of bottle spray paint work for aluminum?


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 1:50 pm    Post subject: Re: new skin for lenses Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
I'm sure this isn't anything new for some of you guys, but it's time to add a new skin to angenieux lens, and also a hood, so what kind of rubber vinyl could recommend me in this case? Thanks


Genuine Leather + some double sided adhesive tape?



PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
Thank you guys for the recommendation, finally I'm thinking of painting the whole body - would some kind of bottle spray paint work for aluminum?


Show us the lens before starting to work Wink

S


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 7:42 pm    Post subject: Re: new skin for lenses Reply with quote
RokkorDoctor wrote:
Have a look at JapanHobbyTool. Not cheap, but they have some harder-to-find textures:

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-leather

They do flocking for hoods as well:

https://japanhobbytool.com/collections/camera-repair-material/products/light-trap-material


I love that they have Chinon type. That's the good stuff.


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


this is the lens i would like to update, what do you guys think a proper look would be? vinyl skin, leather, new paint (glossy,matte etc)


PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
of course, the lens has got the aluminum tube removed meantime, now it´s got a dirty black scratched all over look, but the glass is nice
i would definetely need a hood for it, maybe a type with a clamp ?


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 1:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
of course, the lens has got the aluminum tube removed meantime, now it´s got a dirty black scratched all over look, but the glass is nice
i would definetely need a hood for it, maybe a type with a clamp ?

How about making a 3D print hood? You may be able to use the threads on the front.


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have a similar Angénieux projection lens, and I never had the idea to "improve" it. Cleaning (by didmantling if necessary) yes, but nothing more. Adding a nice old shade would be OK of course.

If one wants to play aroound with lenses, a more modern lens is more appropriate - I am thinking of re-anodizing the outer surfaces of my Minolta MD-III 2/135mm and MD-III 2.8/200mm lenses, for example.

S


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Buff lens body to remove black & polish aluminum...


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
visualopsins wrote:
Buff lens body to remove black & polish aluminum...


The black finishes on lenses like this are black dyed hard anodized. Buffing/sanding the finish off is an absolutely terrible idea, since it will leave an extremely soft raw aluminum surface much more prone to damage, even if painted over.

Unfortunately, it can be hard to get most paints to stick to an anodized surface. Really, the only practical option is black lacquer, which is what the Nikkor and Canon FD lenses use over black dyed anodizing.

Last edited by BrianSVP on Fri Jan 12, 2024 6:43 am; edited 2 times in total


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
stevemark wrote:
I have a similar Angénieux projection lens, and I never had the idea to "improve" it. Cleaning (by didmantling if necessary) yes, but nothing more. Adding a nice old shade would be OK of course.

If one wants to play aroound with lenses, a more modern lens is more appropriate - I am thinking of re-anodizing the outer surfaces of my Minolta MD-III 2/135mm and MD-III 2.8/200mm lenses, for example.

S

I started re-anodizing lenses over a decade ago and AFAIK, I'm the first person on the Internet to have actually done this to vintage lenses, so I have a fair amount of insight into what it involves. With my experience, I'd strongly recommend against trying to reanodize either of those lenses.

Re-anodizing to black can be really hit or miss with these lenses, since the different components can use different aluminum alloys that behave very differently when taking the dye, making consistent coloring across components extremely difficult. None of this is documented anywhere, either, so you wouldn't even have an idea of results until after the original ano had been irreversibly removed. If you get a bad dye result, you have to restrip again, degrading the surface texture each time. The original surface appearance can be brought back through glass bead-blasting prior to re-anodizing, but that requires a whole setup that unless you work in a well-equipped metal or auto body shop, you will be unlikely to have reasonable access to.

Teles from this era can also be unpractical to reanodize, since they often have matte painted or flocked inner surfaces which have to be stripped prior to removing the original anodizing by chemical dip, and then repainted afterwards, which is not easy to do with good results. To get a competent pro to do it, you are going to be spending substantially more than the lens is worth.


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 7:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow, a lot of high tech information , not bad idea this post
Ok guys, I understand this lens it's a petzval , I've took few test shots and it is amazing, today should arrive the raf adapter ,so meantime , I thought about improving the external look of it (after admiring Isco and Schneider projector lenses good and red lol)
I'm open to whatever best option , I do have acces to professional painting equipment, but removing the whole paint from the inner surface , it's not what I would do, as I'm not sure how the new paint would change the settings of the elements, my idea would be to do only the external side
3d printed plastic look wouldn't be my best guess, unless there would be some special look added to it
I think this lens is a keeper and would get plenty of use, so I am still reading you guys to learn what best option would be (leather skin it's also possible,but I would like some fancy one, not a boring one lol)


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
stevemark wrote:
I have a similar Angénieux projection lens, and I never had the idea to "improve" it. Cleaning (by didmantling if necessary) yes, but nothing more. Adding a nice old shade would be OK of course.

If one wants to play aroound with lenses, a more modern lens is more appropriate - I am thinking of re-anodizing the outer surfaces of my Minolta MD-III 2/135mm and MD-III 2.8/200mm lenses, for example.

S

I started re-anodizing lenses over a decade ago and AFAIK, I'm the first person on the Internet to have actually done this to vintage lenses, so I have a fair amount of insight into what it involves. With my experience, I'd strongly recommend against trying to reanodize either of those lenses.

Re-anodizing to black can be really hit or miss with these lenses, since the different components can use different aluminum alloys that behave very differently when taking the dye, making consistent coloring across components extremely difficult. None of this is documented anywhere, either, so you wouldn't even have an idea of results until after the original ano had been irreversibly removed. If you get a bad dye result, you have to restrip again, degrading the surface texture each time. The original surface appearance can be brought back through glass bead-blasting prior to re-anodizing, but that requires a whole setup that unless you work in a well-equipped metal or auto body shop, you will be unlikely to have reasonable access to.

Teles from this era can also be unpractical to reanodize, since they often have matte painted or flocked inner surfaces which have to be stripped prior to removing the original anodizing by chemical dip, and then repainted afterwards, which is not easy to do with good results. To get a competent pro to do it, you are going to be spending substantially more than the lens is worth.


Very useful information.

In addition I would add that the Minolta MD-III 2/135 and MD-III 2.8/200 are two of the few Minolta MF era lenses that have a significant number of black-painted exterior surfaces. For reasons best known to Minolta they decided that a limited number of their premium lenses (135/2, 200/2.8, SHIFT CA 35/2.8, 600/6.3 etc.) had to have some parts of their exterior surfaces painted black instead of anodised.


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys, RAF adapter just arrived, sent from Monday , excellent fit and quality, not cheap but it's worth it.
One thing to take into account, I have two helicoids same size, one with and another without the m42 inner lip (used to actuate the aperture pin). The helicoid with the lip, will not allow reach infinity ,the other one will pass infinity , so couple of shims would adjust infinity perfectly.
Now it's time to look for a hood, this projector lens has the front element very exposed. Is there any clamp adapter option ,what would you guys recommend me?


PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2024 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:

Re-anodizing to black can be really hit or miss with these lenses,
...
The original surface appearance can be brought back ... but that requires a whole setup that unless you work in a well-equipped metal or auto body shop, you will be unlikely to have reasonable access to.


Sure - I was never thinking about doing it myself. We have enough small and very professional precision engineering shops here in Switzerland. Many moons ago the father of a schoolmate made F/A-18 engine turbine blades, for instance Wink. Small company, but really hightech.

BrianSVP wrote:
Teles from this era can also be unpractical to reanodize, since they often have matte painted or flocked inner surfaces


Not a problem with the Minolta MD-III 2/135mm and 2.8/200mm lenses.

S
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