Anyone ever fixed a Carenar 135mm 2.8?

[osebik]

Hi all,
I am new to the forum, and have a question. I have a k-mount carenar 135mm f2.8. The aperture seems to be stuck at 2.8, not stuck actually, the aperture ring turns, but when I push the pin the lens does not stop down.

Is there anyway this can be fixed, anyone with any experience dealing with a carenar is welcome.





This is the lens...

[Attila]

[Attila]

Looks a generic cheap Japanese lens. Need to open it a clean blades from dirt and oil. You need some small screw , a spanner wrench, a lot of patient to clean and put back blades. If any blade is deformed already it will NO success.

[osebik]

Thank you Atilla,

It is a cheap lens, but I have seen very nice photos taken with it in deviantart and flickr, so I want to have a go at fixing it. I have never opened a lens before, to reach the blades I am guessing one needs to start dismantling the lens from the back, right?

[newton]

I think it is a nice lens, btw.

[TBaker]

I have this lense and got it for $10. Still haven't used it. But mine doesn't have the EEK on the front ring.

[gud]

In case someone will come here. The root cause when Carenar lens does not shut the blades when pin is pressed down is that L-form push arm got unscrewed. Due to its size, it easily stuck between external body and internal tube and makes no sound even when you shake lens. To fix it - just open lens from the back and screw L-push arm back, the way that when pin is pressed, it touches one side of L-arm and other side start to push the diagram lever up-outside direction. From my understanding , there is only one position how you can attach it there, so it is easy. I`ve fixed this way 2 Carenars already.

[tomasg]

[njd]

Registered here just to add this:

I have a Carenar 135mm f2.8 which would only stop down to f8. The aperture ring turned freely all the way to f22, but the blades didn't close any smaller than f8.

I opened the back of the lens, removing the three tiny screws and the circular backplate. The pin sits on the L-arm inside the lens, and it will drop down into the lens as soon as you lift the backplate, so it may be worth securing the pin first with blu-tacj or some other kind of putty.

The L-arm moved just fine in my case, but there's a longer steel pin inside the lens assembly which the L-arm pulls sideways to move the blades and open the aperture when it's released. That pin has a spring attached which should pull it the other way and close the aperture down.

I found that the spring was caught on something that stopped it contacting fully, so the inner pin didn't move far enough to move the aperture blades more that halfway closed.

Moving that pin around manually proved that the blades could move smoothly and close down to f22. I just had to work the spring a little until it contracted properly.

Then I just had to put on the backplate, tighten the three little screws, and now I have a lens with a fully working aperture.