Canon EOS Picture Style

[orangehexagon]

I have had the Canon EOS1000D about 4 months and it's my first SLR. From the beginning my style of shooting has been to use it as if it were a film camera and fully manually so as to learn "properly" and maintain control.

When I got the camera I set the picture style at neutral as I assumed that would have the least effect on the image from it's RAW capture. As I edit the RAW files later on would changing this have any effect on what I end up with or is it just processing the image? Does anyone use this feature?
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Canon EOS 1000D, Praktica MTL-3

Tamron 2.5/28, Mir-1B 2.8/37, Industar 50-2 3.5/50, Pentacon 1.8/50, Chinon Auto 1.4/50, S-M-C Tak 1.4/50, Super Takumar 2.5/135, Tair-3AS 4.5/300 and friends.

[poilu]

when you shot raw, picture style doesn't matter
only the embedded jpg is affected, image viewers show this jpg
archive your best pics in raw
when you will get a better monitor, you will be happy to not have lost half colors with srgb

[orangehexagon]

Thank you poilu. I always keep my photos in RAW. Looking I see my camera is set to sRGB, now that I've looked it up changing it to Adobe RGB looks like a good idea if I have been missing out on so much of my colours for so long. Although Ken Rockwell appears to argue otherwise.
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Canon EOS 1000D, Praktica MTL-3

Tamron 2.5/28, Mir-1B 2.8/37, Industar 50-2 3.5/50, Pentacon 1.8/50, Chinon Auto 1.4/50, S-M-C Tak 1.4/50, Super Takumar 2.5/135, Tair-3AS 4.5/300 and friends.

[poilu]

[visualopsins]

Camera colorspace setting does not affect RAW data.

Recently I'm experimenting with uniWB technique to get more data into RAW by gaining exposure. Basically camera WB setting can cause histogram to show clip before those pixels are actually saturated, due to applied multiplying factor of WB. The idea is to trick the camera into using a custom WB where multiplying factor is 1 for all three color channels RGB, so histogram shows actual clipping. In my experience, on 5D1 a full stop more exposure is possible! More "far right" exposure = more data recoverable in darker portions of image.

more information on uniWB: http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/uniwb/index_en.htm
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like attracts like!

[Orio]

easy set of good sense rules:

A- shoot RAW

B- set sRGB in camera if you happen to do a lot of "proofing" (straight comversion to small size JPGs for preview or web purposes), otherwise set to Adobe RGB or other wider colours profile

C- in your raw processing program, always use ProPhoto profile as output if you want to produce a "master" copy that has full spectral content.
If you are familiar with music production, think of this process as creating a final master two tracks tape from a multitrack tape.

D- when you have your master ProPhoto TIF, if you want to resize and jpg convert for web, follow these steps: 1 resize to web size 2 convert profile to sRGB 3 convert format to JPG

E- if you want to make some post processing, set your Photoshop or similar program to use ProPhoto colour profile, and do all PP inside that profile. When you are done, save the edited file always as ProPhoto TIF, and to create a web image follow the process in point D
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Ave atque vale
Orio

[rbelyell]

orio, as always i find your post both interesting and instructive. however--and i assume i am incorrect--i had always understood that computer screens only render in sRGB and that you dont see the advantage on screen that can be achieved through adobeRGB or other color space. could you please comment?
thanks
tony
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canon eos 5d; olympus e-p1; canon s90; mamiya universal press; pentacon 6; kodak retina reflex iii; polaroid 100
*= for sale or trade
adaptall: tamron bbar mc 105/2.5; tamron sp 28-80/3.5*; tamron bbar 70-150/3.5*
canon: canon L 17-40/4
c mount: computar 12.5/1.4; wollensak raptor 25/1.9; cooke kinic 50/3.5; bell & howell 75/4.0; computar tv zoom 12.5-75/1.2*
contax: zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye; yashica ml 28/2.8, 35/2.8 and 50/1.4*; zeiss planar T 50/1.4; yashica ml 28-85/3.5-4.0;
deckel: voigtlander skoparex 35/3.4*; kodak retina curtagon 28/4.0, curtagon 35/2.8, xenon 50/1.8, tele-arton 85/4.0, tele-xenar 135/4.0 and tele-xenar 200/4.8; rodenstock 50/2.8
m39: industar 28/2.8 'pancake'; jupiter 50/2.0; silver industar 50/3.5 'pancake'; fed 100/6.3
m42: mir 35/2.0; petri orikkor 'kuribayashi' pre-set 35/2.8, 50/2.8, 135/2.8* and 180/3.5*; super takemur 35/3.5*; smc takemur 50/1.4*; yashica yashinon ds 50/1.9; silver helios 44 58/2.0; helios 44-2 58/2.0; silver jupiter 85/2.0; super takemur 135/2.8*; sigma 21-35/3.5-4.0*; porst (cosina) 35-105/3.6; sun optics 'pistol grip' 80-210/4.8 pre-set*
P6: mir 45/3.5; mir 65/3.5; volna 80/2.8

View my photos on Snapixel:
http://www.snapixel.com/sets/rbelyell
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'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long'

[PaulC]

The photo styles in Canon can be very helpful. Shoot in RAW and you can choose whatever style you want in the DPP processor when you output a TIFF or JPG file.

If you are able to get a good landscape shot, especially with the green hills, blue sky stuff, load it in DPP and then click through all the different pre-saved styles on offer.

Using "landscape" style is a bit like deciding to use Velvia film, similarly, using "portrait" is like using one of the skin-tone emulsions (but check out what a lousy job it does with an African or Asian subject).

You could just select the style, shoot jpg and hope its OK. But it's much better to shoot RAW and then try out the styles and tweak things in DPP if nothing quite works right.
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View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan

[Olivier]