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seuret
Joined: 29 Nov 2009 Posts: 34 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 4:16 am Post subject: "Repair" How to - make Helios 44M-6 usable with N |
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seuret wrote:
Hello,
I have this nice lens for years, but i have used it only on my Prakticas and Zenit 122. Since i turned digital with Nikon D90 i couldn't use it except wide open which is not exactly the best solution. The lens doesn't have M/A switch like pentacon auto 50/1.8 for example.
So i decided to open it, clean it and make something so i can use it.
There are some photos showing how i made it. Sorry for the quality, but my hands were greasy and i was holding the camera with just a few fingers:).
P.S. I couldn't find any examples how to do it and i decide to share my humble effort with you
So, remove the screws (in red) and here you can see pin for the auto aperture(green) which had to be removed.
The pin is removed and show before the lens. Pull the aperture ring. Now remove the three screws show in red. In blue is the direction(counter clock wise) if you want to open and clean the glasses:) There is a small green dot you can see in the upper end.It's the "starter" of the auto aperture. Here we call it -Jumping aperture. I needed to keep pushed down all the time so that i can use any aperture i need, not only f2.How i make it, later:)
Now, remove those very little screws (red) and put the fixing brass parts out of the barrel -(blue)
Now remove the screw (red)
Here you can see the back lenses, show in the order they are inside the barrel.This wasn't the point, but i decided to clean them, so i pulled them out.
After i pulled out the glass elements i unscrewed the front part and i was able to clean the barrel. There was a lot of sand and dust inside:) I guess the previous owner is a sunbathing weirdo
After i finish cleaning and well deep into grease i made the reverse actions. Before i put and screw the back cap i put a very small screw in to the hole of the pin for the auto aperture, but from below-show in green(hmm so, sounds complicated, but it's because of my english:)
Now, i closed the lens and it was ready for work. As you can see from the photo-there is no pin outside the barrel.
Now, a few photos i wasn't able to do until i "mend" the lens. This is a poster on my wall(it's Rio De Janeiro).ISO 800, Shutter speed 1/125 and f5.6 Hahaha, it's only one lamp on the right side of the poster
The whole photo
100% Crop
200% Crop
The lens is really sharp, i can't wait to test it outside, to do some street photos with it.
I hope you liked my hmmm, experiment. _________________ SLR Cameras:Zenit 122, Praktica MTL5B, Nikon D90, Nikon F90x
RF Cameras: Siluet Elektro
MF Lenses: Helios 44-6 58/2; Pentacon 50/1.8 Electric; Pentacon 135/2.8 Auto; Jupiter 9 85/2; Tamron Adaptall 135/2.8
AF Lenses: Nikon 17-55/2.8 DX; Nikon 70-300 VR; Nikon 50/1.8 D; Nikon 18-70DX; Sigma 24/2.8 |
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patrickh
Joined: 23 Aug 2007 Posts: 8551 Location: Oregon
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:14 am Post subject: |
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patrickh wrote:
A talented and brave act. Yes, it is a good lens and probably worth the effort. Thank you for such a clear and detailed description of the adventure.
patrickh _________________ DSLR: Nikon D300 Nikon D200 Nex 5N
MF Zooms: Kiron 28-85/3.5, 28-105/3.2, 75-150/3.5, Nikkor 50-135/3.5 AIS // MF Primes: Nikkor 20/4 AI, 24/2 AI, 28/2 AI, 28/2.8 AIS, 28/3.5 AI, 35/1.4 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 35/2.8 PC, 45/2.8 P, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 AIS micro, 55/3.5 AI micro, 85/2 AI, 100/2,8 E, 105/1,8 AIS, 105/2,5 AIS, 135/2 AIS, 135/2.8 AIS, 200/4 AI, 200/4 AIS micro, 300/4.5 AI, 300/4.5 AI ED, Arsat 50/1.4, Kiron 28/2, Vivitar 28/2.5, Panagor 135/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Tamron 90/2.5 macro, Vivitar 90/2.5 macro (Tokina) Voigtlander 90/3.5 Vivitar 105/2.5 macro (Kiron) Kaleinar 100/2.8 AI Tamron 135/2.5, Vivitar 135/2.8CF, 200/3.5, Tokina 400/5,6
M42: Vivitar 28/2.5, Tamron 28/2.5, Formula5 28/2.8, Mamiya 28/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Flektogon 35/2.4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Takumar 35/3.5, Curtagon 35/4, Takumar 50/1.4, Volna-6 50/2.8 macro, Mamiya 50/1.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1,8, Oreston 50/1.8, Takumar 50/2, Industar 50/3.5, Sears 55/1.4, Helios 58/2, Jupiter 85/2, Helios 85/1.5, Takumar 105/2.8, Steinheil macro 105/4.5, Tamron 135/2.5, Jupiter 135/4, CZ 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4,5, Jupiter 135/3.5, Takumar 135/3.5, Tair 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, CZ 135/2.8, Taika 135/3.5, Takumar 150/4, Jupiter 200/4, Takumar 200/4
Exakta: Topcon 100/2.8(M42), 35/2.8, 58/1.8, 135/2.8, 135/2.8 (M42), Kyoei Acall 135/3.5
C/Y: Yashica 28/2.8, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, Zeiss Planar 50/1.4, Distagon 25/2.8
Hexanon: 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 40/1.8, 50/1.7, 52/1.8, 135/3.2, 135/3.5, 35-70/3.5, 200/3.5
P6 : Mir 38 65/3.5, Biometar 80/2.8, Kaleinar 150/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Minolta SR: 28/2.8, 28/3.5, 35/2.8, 45/2, 50/2, 58/1.4, 50/1.7, 135/2.8, 200/3.5
RF: Industar 53/2.8, Jupiter 8 50/2
Enlarg: Rodagon 50/5,6, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, Vario 44-52/4, 150/5.6 180/5.6 El Nikkor 50/2,8,63/2.8,75/4, 80/5,6, 105/5.6, 135/5.6 Schneider 60/5.6, 80/5.6, 80/4S,100/5.6S,105/5.6,135/5.6, 135/5.6S, 150/5.6S, Leica 95/4 |
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beachboy2
Joined: 06 Sep 2009 Posts: 70 Location: Perth, Western Australia
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:40 am Post subject: |
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beachboy2 wrote:
Hi Seuret
Thanks for a well photographed and informative post.
bb2 _________________ K5, K20D, Bigma, Sigma EX 105, Sigma EX 10-20, Sigma EX 28-70 F2.8, Sigma Ex 1.4TC,
Pentax 135 F3.5, Pentax 30mm F2.8 , Pentax 50mm F1.7, Pentax 55mm F1.8, S-M-C Tak 35mm F3.5, Super Tak 135mm F3.5, Super Tak 50mm F1.4, Super Tak 200mm F4
Vivitar 135mm F2.8, Vivitar TX 200mm F3.5, Vivitar 2X TC, Vivitar TX 300m F5.6 Vivitar T4 400mm F6.3
Tamron SP 35-80,80-210 F3.8, 300mm F2.8 360b,Helios 44M, Chinon 28mm F2.8, Chinon 35mm F2.8, 3M-5A 500mm F8, Mir 1B 37mm F2.8, Jupiter 9 85mm F2, CZJ Biometar 80mm F2.8 |
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djmike
Joined: 01 Apr 2009 Posts: 930 Location: Taiwan
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:05 am Post subject: |
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djmike wrote:
Seuret, thanks for sharing with clear photos. Typically I will use glue and not let that pin extruded. Does any other do so?
Mike _________________
DSLR: Canon 400D
SLR: Nikon FM2 + Canon A-1 + Canon AE1-P + Praktica MTL-5B + Pentax Spotmatic F + Fujica ST801 + Voigtlander Bassematic + Voigtlander Vito + Rollei 35S + Rolleiflex SL35 ME + Canon QL17 GIII + Olympus Pen EE-3
Lenses
M42: CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4 + CZJ Flektogon Zebra 35/2.8 + CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 + CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5 + CZJ Tessar 50/2.8 Chrome + Pentacon 135/2.8 + Pentacon 50/1.8 + SMC Takumar 50/1.4 + SMC Takumar 55/2 + SMC Takumar 135/3.5 + Fujinon 55/1.8 + Jupiter-9 85/2 + Jupiter-37A 135/3.5 + Helios 44-6 58/2
Nikor: Nikkor 50/1.4 + Nikkor 28/3.5 + Nikkor 35-105 Zoom + 36-72 Series E Zoom
Canon: Canon FD + 28/2.8 + 50/1.8 + Canon 35-105 Macro Zoom
Other: Rollei Planar HFT 50/1.8
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1389 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:14 am Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
djmike wrote: |
Seuret, thanks for sharing with clear photos. Typically I will use glue and not let that pin extruded. Does any other do so?
Mike |
Erm... why would anyone want to do that? Okay, I can understand that sometimes people feel reluctant about M42 adapters with stop-down flanges (it escapes me as of why exactly, but nevertheless). I've seen people put a piece of a ball-pen refill to block the pin. _________________ List of lenses |
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Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:27 am Post subject: |
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Arkku wrote:
My favourite method of converting M42 automatic aperture to manual is to cut a piece of hollow plastic from a cotton swab (“q-tip”) and insert that over the pin inside the lens. |
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Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:30 am Post subject: |
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Arkku wrote:
aoleg wrote: |
[Okay, I can understand that sometimes people feel reluctant about M42 adapters with stop-down flanges (it escapes me as of why exactly, but nevertheless). |
The stop-down adapters are not compatible with all M42 lenses, because some of the lenses have extra protrusions on the rear and won't screw on properly. Also, if a lens has an auto/manual switch, it's good to have the pin free, because then the switch can be used to toggle between wide open (for focusing) and the selected shooting aperture, e.g. on an f/1.4 lens one can select f/5.6 on the aperture ring and then use the A/M switch to toggle between f/1.4 and f/5.6 without looking or counting the clicks. |
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1389 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 10:52 am Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
Arkku wrote: |
The stop-down adapters are not compatible with all M42 lenses, because some of the lenses have extra protrusions on the rear and won't screw on properly.
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...which is not the case with Russian lenses, but strictly an issue with Pentax Takumars, which in turn always have those A/M switches making the fixture unnecessary (and for which I have adapters with properly sized flanges). Oh, and there are Fujica and Mamiya Sekor lenses, but those are far and between.
Arkku wrote: |
Also, if a lens has an auto/manual switch, it's good to have the pin free, because then the switch can be used to toggle between wide open (for focusing) and the selected shooting aperture, e.g. on an f/1.4 lens one can select f/5.6 on the aperture ring and then use the A/M switch to toggle between f/1.4 and f/5.6 without looking or counting the clicks. |
And here again one wouldn't want to glue the pin permanently. _________________ List of lenses |
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larsr
Joined: 25 Jun 2009 Posts: 272 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 2:14 am Post subject: |
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larsr wrote:
Great effort, thank you for sharing this with us :) Always a good thing to have folks disassembling AND documenting stuff.
Incidentally, out of curiosity, I ordered and just got a Nikon camera repair handbook with tips on repairing some lenses. I hope I can gather enough courage to disassemble some of my Nikkors now :) _________________ Lars
Bodies:
DSLR: Nikon D200
SLR: Nikon FA, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Zeiss Ikon Icarex 35TM
35mm: Voigtl�nder Vitoret
Nikkor MF
24/2.8K AI'd, 28/2.8 AIS, 35/2 AIS, 50/1.4 AIS, 50/1.8 AIS, 50/2 AI, 55/2.8 Micro, 35-70/3.5 AIS, 85/1.8K AI'd, 100/2.8 Series E, 105/2.5 AI, 105/2.5 AIS, 135/3.5 AI, Nikkor 180/2.8 ED AIS, 200/4-Q AI'd, 300/4.5-H AI'd
M42
Misc: Vivitar 28/2.5, Chinon 28/2.8, Cosina Auto Cosinon 50/1.8, Revue Auto Revuenon 50/1.8, Mamiya 50/2, Auto Flex 55/1.7, Cosina Cosinon 135/2.8 MC, Vivitar 135/2.8, Petri 200/3.5 CC Auto
Zeiss: Carl Zeiss (Ikon) Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, CZJ Pancolar Electric 50/1.8 MC, CZJ Biotar 58/2 T, CZJ Sonnar MC S 135/3.5
Asahi-Pentax: SMC-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 105/2.8, SMC-Takumar 135/3.5
USSR: Mir-1 37/2.8 (1958 GP), Helios 44-2 58/2
Pentacon/Meyer: Pentacon 29/2.8 MC, Pentacon 50/1.8 MC Electric, Meyer G�rlitz Oreston 50/1.8, Meyer G�rlitz Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 200/4
Nikkor AF
50/1.8 D, 60/2.8 Micro, 55-200/4-5.6 G VR, 70-300/4-5.6 ED, 18-70/3.5-4.5 G
Wantlist
Nikkor 105/1.8, Nikkor 135/2
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Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 2:39 am Post subject: |
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Arkku wrote:
aoleg wrote: |
Arkku wrote: |
The stop-down adapters are not compatible with all M42 lenses, because some of the lenses have extra protrusions on the rear and won't screw on properly.
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...which is not the case with Russian lenses, but strictly an issue with Pentax Takumars, which in turn always have those A/M switches making the fixture unnecessary (and for which I have adapters with properly sized flanges). |
Yes, this was exactly my point; the stop-down adapter is not suitable for all lenses.
aoleg wrote: |
Oh, and there are Fujica and Mamiya Sekor lenses, but those are far and between. |
Only some of the best M42 mount lenses are Fujinons and Mamiya/Sekors, e.g. Mamiya's 55mm's and 135mm f/2.8, EBC Fujinons 19mm, 50mm, 55mm, 100mm, 135mm, etc. =)
But again, I never said that the stop-down adapter is bad or shouldn't be used when it can be used. You said (earlier) that it escapes you why exactly some people are reluctant to use one, and for me the reason is that the adapter is not suitable for every lens (and regular adapters are better for lenses with auto/manual switch, even if they would otherwise fit on the stop-down adapter).
Naturally there's nothing wrong with having both types of adapters, but e.g. I prefer to non-destructively convert the auto-only lenses to manual aperture instead of getting two sets of microchipped high quality adapters (with correct focal lengths for my lenses, etc).
aoleg wrote: |
Arkku wrote: |
Also, if a lens has an auto/manual switch, it's good to have the pin free, because then the switch can be used to toggle between wide open (for focusing) and the selected shooting aperture, e.g. on an f/1.4 lens one can select f/5.6 on the aperture ring and then use the A/M switch to toggle between f/1.4 and f/5.6 without looking or counting the clicks. |
And here again one wouldn't want to glue the pin permanently. |
I'm sorry, but I don't understand your point here—since the quote from my previous post is referring strictly to lenses with an A/M switch, why would one ever want to press in the pin on those instead of switching to M? (And indeed, that's the point in my quoted post; if the pin is not pressed in, the A/M switch can be useful.) |
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Poolhall
Joined: 25 Feb 2008 Posts: 1296
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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Poolhall wrote:
I used to use the 'q-tip' method as described above, using a plastic sleeve over the pin, as it is reversible and non-destructive, but now I have 2 m42 to k mount adapters: 1 with a flange for auto only lenses, like the Helios 44m-6 and a normal one for preset lenses like the Helios 44-2 and it seems to work well enough for me |
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Arkku
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 1416 Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:23 pm Post subject: |
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Arkku wrote:
Poolhall wrote: |
I have 2 m42 to k mount adapters: 1 with a flange for auto only lenses, like the Helios 44m-6 and a normal one for preset lenses like the Helios 44-2 and it seems to work well enough for me :D |
Yes, Pentax has better support for M42 lenses than others. With Sony one needs to have the adapter programmed with the focal lengths of the lens for perfect in-body image stabilisation, unlike Pentax where one can choose it from a menu… So, a lot more expensive to get chipped adapters for various focal lengths in two versions.
(Of course, one could just do without image stabilisation, after all, that's what all film and Canon DSLR M42 users have to do anyways. But it's hard to be without once accustomed to it… =) |
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florentin77
Joined: 16 Jul 2013 Posts: 4
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Posted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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florentin77 wrote:
Hello,
do you know the Dog Schidt Optiks lenses? http://nofilmschool.com/2013/03/dog-schidt-optiks-modifying-vintage-russian/
my question is: can I do the same? Like what do I have to do to get ultra low contrast? Since you all know this very well I thought you could help me out! Thanks a lot |
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