Using Kodak HC-110 developer

[Katastrofo]

I like the results (so far) I'm getting with this developer. I use the one
shot method at 1:49. I did two rolls of Fomapan 400 35mm together
in the Paterson tank which is using 12ml of HC-110 and qs to 600mls of
distilled water.

First two shots are from the Nikon F4s with Tamron SP 35-80 zoom, and
third shot is from the new Nikon L35AF, first test roll. I find that if I don't
wait for the flash to fully charge in this point and shoot, it goes wide
aperture and sort of a fill flash, not good.





Prewash for 2-3 minutes, not much dye seen.
HC-110 @ 9 mins, agitations for first 30 seconds, then 2 inversions every
30 seconds thereafter.
Stop for 1 minute
Fix for 5 minutes, it was a little longer than that.
Wash for 5 minutes
Clearing agent for 2 minutes
Hang to dry.

If anyone thinks I'm doing this wrong, don't hesitate to say, thanks.

[ludoo]

I'm not an expert on development, but I'm really liking HC-110 with the cheap Rollei Retro 100 (Agfa APX 100). I used to develop it in Rodinal 1+50 and got a lot of variation in results, and a general dullness in the developed negatives. Since I switched to HC-110 I'm pretty happy, results are consistent and negatives have a nice tonal scale without lacking in contrast. I expose Rollei Retro 100 at 180asa and develop with dilution B, 9 minutes, 3 inversions per minute.

This is a badly scanned shot, my 4490 has focus problems with 35mm ad I did not have time for the whole "lock film base colour" rigamarole in Vuescan, from my Vitomatic IIa with Ultron which nonetheless gives a rough idea of the results



The litte elf running is my daughter.[/img]

[marty]

Hi, Bill. A bit grainy but not that bad, even if I've never tried HC-110 it's what I'd have expected being HC-110 a "Rodinal like" formula. I see a slight motion blur in #1 but I not dislike it: after all is in the nature of the cat being always in movement and alert so the feline "soul" had been captured perfectly. #2 is perfect, great choice of selective focus on the paws and particularly on the claw. #3 good environmental portrait, maybe too dark background but nonetheless good. And yes, the recycle time of the flash could be a problem, at least when I'm concentrated on the framing I tend to forget about that and miss some shot. It's good policy to check often the batteries, if you need to shoot fast fresh batteries help to keep the recycle time to its minimum. For what is concerning the procedure I usually do the hypo clearing before the final wash, otherwise I'm not sure the emulsion will be chemically stable with hypo clearing bath traces left on it.

[Katastrofo]

@Ludoo, great shot!

Marty, thanks, I'll try doing the hypo clearing agent next to last and see
what that does. I've seen it as the final step in a couple of tutorials. The
Fomapan 400 is no Acros when it comes to grain, either.

[marty]

To be precise my procedure reads a brief rinse in water right after fixing, then 2' hypo clearing agent, then 5' wash in running water. The rinse should remove the small remnant of fixer in the tank after pouring out. Then the hypo clearing will neutralize right away the fixer, shortening by much the subsequent needed washing time. The final wash will then remove any trace of chemical from the emulsion. My very last step is 1' in wetting agent to prevent drying marks, which you probably do not need to do since you are diluting your chemicals in distilled water. So far I have noticed no problem even in my oldest negatives.

Cheers, Marty.

[Katastrofo]

Marty, I was confusing the wetting agent for the clearing agent.
I have LFN drops (one drop per 16oz of distilled H2O or 2 drops for 16oz
tapwater) that I use as the last step. The clearing agent is something I
need to get as I get water spots on every other dev I do. I always
attributed it to some poor technique.