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Spotmatic
Joined: 18 Aug 2008 Posts: 4045 Location: Netherlands
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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:43 pm Post subject: |
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Spotmatic wrote:
Olivier wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position. |
A big Thank you, Peter !
I'll see that when I'll feel cool to try to open it.
Cheers. |
Please do; it's quite simple and more than 5 minutes is not needed (if at all). _________________ Peter - Moderator
Pentax K-5 + Pentax 645 + Canon 5D + Bessa RF 10,5cm Heliar, and a 'little' bag full of MF lenses. The lens list is * here *.
My fast 80s: Asahi-Kogaku Takumar 83mm f/1.9 - Super-Takumar 85mm f/1.9 - FA 77mm f/1.8 Limited - Cyclop 85/1.5 (Helios-40 innards) - Komura 80mm f/1.8 - Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 7,5cm 1:1.9 - Carl Zeiss Jena 80mm f/1.8 Pancolar - Canon 85mm f/1.8 S.S.C. - Canon 85mm f/1.2 S.S.C. Aspherical |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:12 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Merci Olivier,
Unluckily, i'm looking for an M42 one, too ...
Nevertheless, i have at least one shop in Toulouse and two other streetmarket sellers to check ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
Please do; it's quite simple and more than 5 minutes is not needed (if at all). |
You were absolutely true !
5 minutes and now it's okay.
Thanks a lot again, Peter.
About the Triotar... the focus ring is stiff. Do you know how to fix that ? _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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overmywaders
Joined: 27 May 2009 Posts: 49
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Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:36 am Post subject: |
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overmywaders wrote:
I have the same stiff focus on my Triotar 135/4 and have read that most of the old Triotars have that problem. I am eager for the fix procedure as well. _________________ Lenses: Tokina Super-Lentar 35/2.8, Schneider-Kreuznach Jsogon 40/4.5, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Ludwig Peconar 50/2.9, Leica Elmar 90/4, Steinheil Cassar 105/4.5, Steinheil Cintagon 100/3.5, Piesker Picon 135/3.5, Telisar 135/3/5, Accura Anastigmat 135/4.5, CZJ Triotar 135/4, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Bausch & Lomb Tessar IIb 158/6.3, Piesker Tele-Picon 180/5.5, Piesker Picon 250/4.5, Piesker Tele-Picon 400/4.5 |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Does somebody know how to fix a stiff focus ring on the Triotar ? _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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madamasu
Joined: 03 Feb 2009 Posts: 597 Location: Frankfurt/Main Germany
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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madamasu wrote:
There are quite a few 85mm and 135mm Triotars on Germany Ebay. Some just starting at 1€, others with prices between 80 and 99€, but you can suggest another price:
http://foto.shop.ebay.de/i.html?_nkw=Zeiss+Triotar&_sacat=3323&_trksid=m270&_sop=1
Thomas _________________ Zorki 4
Jupiter 8, 9, 11, 12 & triple finder
Nikon D200, D700
Nikkors: 15/3.5 AI; N.C 24mm/2.8 (AIed);
N 35mm/1.4 (AIed); 45mm/2.8P; 50mm/1.2 AIS; Micro 55mm/2.8 AIS; Noct 58mm/1.2 AIS;85mm/1.8 (K-lense AIed); 105mm/2.5 AIS; 135mm/3.5 (K-lense AIed)
Voigtlaender Ultron 40mm/2; CZJ Flektogon 20mm/4 (AIed); Helios-81M; MIR-20N; Volna-3; Flektogon 50/4;Flektogon 65/2.8; Biometar 80/2.8; Biometar 120/2.8; Sonnar 180/2.8; Sonnar 300/4
Kiron 70-210/4.5 Makro
--------------------------------------------------------
http://www.flickr.com/photos/madamasu |
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 741 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
My copy of Triotar 135/4 is a little later with scalloped focussing ring grip and focussing is also a little stiff, so I am looking forward to hearing from someone with first-hand experiences.
Olivier, there is a certain "quietness" (can't think of another word) in the Triotar images that I find appealing. I tend to get that from Meyer lenses as well, like the shorter Primotars: Primotar-E 50/3.5 for instance. |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
Spotmatic wrote: |
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position. |
Many thanks for the hint ...
Cheers _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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no-X
Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
I use my repairmen for stiff Tritotars. Both repairmen hate them and both of them said, that Triotar is one of the worst lens for servicing _________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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mcdronkz
Joined: 14 Dec 2009 Posts: 4 Location: The Netherlands
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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mcdronkz wrote:
It's good to read this topic. I've got a Triotar 135mm f/4 too. It's from 1954 if I recon correctly.
My focussing ring goes nice and smooth, but the aperture ring is stiff indeed. I want to repair it, but I don't have a clue how. That's why I signed up here in the first place!
It's a great lens nonetheless. Gotta love those silver tubes! I'm definitely going to collect these, just because these type of CJZ lenses are the nicest lenses ever made, aesthetically-wise.
no-X: Is the focussing ring on your Biotar 58/2 stiff? The aperture ring on mine almost feels kinda light and doesn't go 'smooth', but the focussing ring goes very heavy if you ask me. Much worse than the Triotar 135/4. Oh by the way: I have a 58/2 with 10 blades. |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Seele wrote: |
My copy of Triotar 135/4 is a little later with scalloped focussing ring grip and focussing is also a little stiff, so I am looking forward to hearing from someone with first-hand experiences.
Olivier, there is a certain "quietness" (can't think of another word) in the Triotar images that I find appealing. I tend to get that from Meyer lenses as well, like the shorter Primotars: Primotar-E 50/3.5 for instance. |
Seele, I understand what you mean.
A kind of quiet strength. _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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no-X
Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
Almost all alu/chrome CZJ lenses are stiff these days if they weren't relubed. I have two Biotars (12-bladed T pre-set and 17-bladed T manual), both of them were stiff and both of them are fine now (both my repairmen are handy) _________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:24 am Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Very good gallery, I like the image of the sonnar. Tomorrow I get mine, f3.5 MC red. I'm anxious. _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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francotirador
Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 894
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Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:27 am Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Spotmatic wrote: |
Olivier wrote: |
Spotmatic wrote: |
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position. |
A big Thank you, Peter !
I'll see that when I'll feel cool to try to open it.
Cheers. |
Please do; it's quite simple and more than 5 minutes is not needed (if at all). |
I also thank you, surely the f3.5 is similar and sometimes I'll have to open. _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:07 am Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
francotirador wrote: |
Very good gallery, I like the image of the sonnar. Tomorrow I get mine, f3.5 MC red. I'm anxious. |
Thank you francotirador. _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:48 am Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
I will share little secret with you. This procedure goes especially well with old alu Sonnars and Triotars, but don't use it on newer lenses.
You know the disinfection liquid used in hospitals by doctors and nurses for their hands? Well, put few drops from bottom side of the lens on inner housing , avoid glass of course. It will be easier if you focus on min. distance. This liquid is cool since it makes dried grease softer and also leaves some kind of lubricant behind that helps even more. If you won't use lens for a while you might have to repeat the procedure. Ebay sellers beware - if you'll write "smooth focussing" in the description you might get negative feedback since after lens reaches the buyer it will be stiff again . _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:49 am Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
I will share little secret with you. This procedure goes especially well with old alu Sonnars and Triotars, but don't use it on newer lenses.
You know the disinfection liquid used in hospitals by doctors and nurses for their hands? Well, put few drops from bottom side of the lens on inner housing , avoid glass of course. It will be easier if you focus on min. distance. This liquid is cool since it makes dried grease softer and also leaves some kind of lubricant behind that helps even more. If you won't use lens for a while you might have to repeat the procedure. . |
Would it be the same liquid as hydroalcoholic soap used to dry wash hands ? _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
I am not familiar with yours, but try it out! _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
I'll see, Pancolart.
Some Triotar shots taken yesterday as weather was very cold and sunny.
Gallery updated.
_________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57840 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-11-18
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Great samples Olivier!! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Thank you Attila.
Despite the stiff focus ring...
Ouch, my wrist... _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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Pancolart wrote:
Olivier wrote: |
Thank you Attila.
Despite the stiff focus ring...
Ouch, my wrist... |
I am not kidding you. This is the product: Skinman soft N by ECOLAB. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Pancolart wrote: |
Olivier wrote: |
Thank you Attila.
Despite the stiff focus ring...
Ouch, my wrist... |
I am not kidding you. This is the product: Skinman soft N by ECOLAB. |
Pancolart, I know you're not kidding me.
I just mentioned that I didn't fix it yet and despite that, I manage to take shots with it. _________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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Hutschi
Joined: 19 Nov 2014 Posts: 10 Location: Dresden
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Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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Hutschi wrote:
Hi, I have a Sonnar now (4/135) and the focus ring is absolutely stiff. I read some of you had a stiff focus, too. I cannot even wind a little bit.
I am not sure whether liquid helps.
What do you think?
It is a very nice lens, and I want to use it. It is fix at infinite ...
Best regards
Bernd from Dresden |
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009 Posts: 5077 Location: France
Expire: 2015-08-06
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Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Olivier wrote:
Hello Bernd.
Welcome here !
I've just have a look at my sonnar and triotar.
I'm surprised that my triotar is not so stiff today.
The smell makes me remind that I put a few drops of gun's oïl.
It works fine ! (avoid glass of course).
and I think you should try Pancolart's tip.
Pancolart wrote: |
I will share little secret with you. This procedure goes especially well with old alu Sonnars and Triotars, but don't use it on newer lenses.
You know the disinfection liquid used in hospitals by doctors and nurses for their hands? Well, put few drops from bottom side of the lens on inner housing , avoid glass of course. It will be easier if you focus on min. distance. This liquid is cool since it makes dried grease softer and also leaves some kind of lubricant behind that helps even more. If you won't use lens for a while you might have to repeat the procedure. |
Oh, and you should try to dismount the front
Spotmatic wrote: |
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position. |
_________________ Olivier - Moderator
Dslr : Olympus Pen E-P2 - Fujifilm X-Pro2 - Canon 5D MkII.
SLr and MF lenses : for feedback and helping people, cameras and lenses I own : full list here http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,1442740.html#1442740 |
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