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CZJ Sonnar 4/135 and Triotar 4/135. I understand now !
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Olivier wrote:
Spotmatic wrote:
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position.


A big Thank you, Peter !

I'll see that when I'll feel cool to try to open it.
Cheers.


Please do; it's quite simple and more than 5 minutes is not needed (if at all).


PostPosted: Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Merci Olivier,

Olivier wrote:

Here, there are some in exakta mount :
http://stores.shop.ebay.fr/fotoherbstcom_Exa-Exakta-Objektive-Zube_W0QQ_fsubZ10QQ_sidZ41059718QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

Mine come from this seller (but M42).

Wink


Unluckily, i'm looking for an M42 one, too ...
Nevertheless, i have at least one shop in Toulouse and two other streetmarket sellers to check Wink ...


PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spotmatic wrote:

Please do; it's quite simple and more than 5 minutes is not needed (if at all).


You were absolutely true !
5 minutes and now it's okay.

Thanks a lot again, Peter. Very Happy


About the Triotar... the focus ring is stiff. Do you know how to fix that ? Laughing


PostPosted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the same stiff focus on my Triotar 135/4 and have read that most of the old Triotars have that problem. I am eager for the fix procedure as well.


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does somebody know how to fix a stiff focus ring on the Triotar ? Smile


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are quite a few 85mm and 135mm Triotars on Germany Ebay. Some just starting at 1€, others with prices between 80 and 99€, but you can suggest another price:

http://foto.shop.ebay.de/i.html?_nkw=Zeiss+Triotar&_sacat=3323&_trksid=m270&_sop=1

Thomas


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My copy of Triotar 135/4 is a little later with scalloped focussing ring grip and focussing is also a little stiff, so I am looking forward to hearing from someone with first-hand experiences.

Olivier, there is a certain "quietness" (can't think of another word) in the Triotar images that I find appealing. I tend to get that from Meyer lenses as well, like the shorter Primotars: Primotar-E 50/3.5 for instance.


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Spotmatic wrote:
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position.


Many thanks for the hint ...

Cheers


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use my repairmen for stiff Tritotars. Both repairmen hate them and both of them said, that Triotar is one of the worst lens for servicing Laughing


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's good to read this topic. I've got a Triotar 135mm f/4 too. It's from 1954 if I recon correctly.

My focussing ring goes nice and smooth, but the aperture ring is stiff indeed. I want to repair it, but I don't have a clue how. That's why I signed up here in the first place! Very Happy

It's a great lens nonetheless. Gotta love those silver tubes! I'm definitely going to collect these, just because these type of CJZ lenses are the nicest lenses ever made, aesthetically-wise.

no-X: Is the focussing ring on your Biotar 58/2 stiff? The aperture ring on mine almost feels kinda light and doesn't go 'smooth', but the focussing ring goes very heavy if you ask me. Much worse than the Triotar 135/4. Oh by the way: I have a 58/2 with 10 blades.


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seele wrote:
My copy of Triotar 135/4 is a little later with scalloped focussing ring grip and focussing is also a little stiff, so I am looking forward to hearing from someone with first-hand experiences.

Olivier, there is a certain "quietness" (can't think of another word) in the Triotar images that I find appealing. I tend to get that from Meyer lenses as well, like the shorter Primotars: Primotar-E 50/3.5 for instance.


Seele, I understand what you mean.
A kind of quiet strength. Smile


PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Almost all alu/chrome CZJ lenses are stiff these days if they weren't relubed. I have two Biotars (12-bladed T pre-set and 17-bladed T manual), both of them were stiff and both of them are fine now (both my repairmen are handy)


PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very good gallery, I like the image of the sonnar. Tomorrow I get mine, f3.5 MC red. I'm anxious. Wink


PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spotmatic wrote:
Olivier wrote:
Spotmatic wrote:
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position.


A big Thank you, Peter !

I'll see that when I'll feel cool to try to open it.
Cheers.


Please do; it's quite simple and more than 5 minutes is not needed (if at all).


I also thank you, surely the f3.5 is similar and sometimes I'll have to open.


PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

francotirador wrote:
Very good gallery, I like the image of the sonnar. Tomorrow I get mine, f3.5 MC red. I'm anxious. Wink


Thank you francotirador. Smile


PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will share little secret with you. This procedure goes especially well with old alu Sonnars and Triotars, but don't use it on newer lenses.

You know the disinfection liquid used in hospitals by doctors and nurses for their hands? Well, put few drops from bottom side of the lens on inner housing , avoid glass of course. It will be easier if you focus on min. distance. This liquid is cool since it makes dried grease softer and also leaves some kind of lubricant behind that helps even more. If you won't use lens for a while you might have to repeat the procedure. Ebay sellers beware - if you'll write "smooth focussing" in the description you might get negative feedback since after lens reaches the buyer it will be stiff again Wink .


PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pancolart wrote:
I will share little secret with you. This procedure goes especially well with old alu Sonnars and Triotars, but don't use it on newer lenses.

You know the disinfection liquid used in hospitals by doctors and nurses for their hands? Well, put few drops from bottom side of the lens on inner housing , avoid glass of course. It will be easier if you focus on min. distance. This liquid is cool since it makes dried grease softer and also leaves some kind of lubricant behind that helps even more. If you won't use lens for a while you might have to repeat the procedure. Wink .


Shocked

Would it be the same liquid as hydroalcoholic soap used to dry wash hands ?


PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am not familiar with yours, but try it out!


PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll see, Pancolart. Wink

Some Triotar shots taken yesterday as weather was very cold and sunny.
Gallery updated.









PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great samples Olivier!!


PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Attila.

Despite the stiff focus ring...
Ouch, my wrist... Laughing


PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Olivier wrote:
Thank you Attila.

Despite the stiff focus ring...
Ouch, my wrist... Laughing


I am not kidding you. This is the product: Skinman soft N by ECOLAB.


PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pancolart wrote:
Olivier wrote:
Thank you Attila.

Despite the stiff focus ring...
Ouch, my wrist... Laughing


I am not kidding you. This is the product: Skinman soft N by ECOLAB.


Pancolart, I know you're not kidding me. Wink
I just mentioned that I didn't fix it yet and despite that, I manage to take shots with it.


PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I have a Sonnar now (4/135) and the focus ring is absolutely stiff. I read some of you had a stiff focus, too. I cannot even wind a little bit.
I am not sure whether liquid helps.
What do you think?

It is a very nice lens, and I want to use it. It is fix at infinite ...

Best regards
Bernd from Dresden


PostPosted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Bernd.
Welcome here ! Very Happy

I've just have a look at my sonnar and triotar.
I'm surprised that my triotar is not so stiff today.
The smell makes me remind that I put a few drops of gun's oïl.
It works fine ! (avoid glass of course).

and I think you should try Pancolart's tip.

Pancolart wrote:
I will share little secret with you. This procedure goes especially well with old alu Sonnars and Triotars, but don't use it on newer lenses.
You know the disinfection liquid used in hospitals by doctors and nurses for their hands? Well, put few drops from bottom side of the lens on inner housing , avoid glass of course. It will be easier if you focus on min. distance. This liquid is cool since it makes dried grease softer and also leaves some kind of lubricant behind that helps even more. If you won't use lens for a while you might have to repeat the procedure.



Oh, and you should try to dismount the front
Spotmatic wrote:
Oh yes, now I remember! Do you see the slotted tube in the back? Unscrew this and the whole optical block comes off at the front (only the focusing helicoid stays). Then you should be able to put the optical block back in the correct position.