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star0nfire
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 109 Location: Leiria, Portugal
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 2:04 pm Post subject: CZJ DDR Flektogon MC 2.4/35 |
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star0nfire wrote:
I'm amazed by this lens' sharpness.
The roll used was an Ilford FP4+, negatives scanned with the Canon CanoScan 8400f
(click on the images to see bigger versions) _________________ http://www.flickr.com/photos/franciscogomes |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
This seems one of the lenses that will convince me to pay for such performance. Love that rose _________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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hexi
Joined: 01 Jul 2009 Posts: 1631 Location: France
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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hexi wrote:
Amazing indeed. _________________ Happy owner and user of :
SLR's > Contax Aria - RX
DSLR > Canon 5D
Lenses : C/Y Planar 1.4/50 - Distagon 2.8/35 - Planar 1.4/85
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sonnar85 |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57840 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-11-18
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:37 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Wonderful lens indeed. Nice samples! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
If you have a good copy, it's a real gem.
But not all copies are good ones... _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57840 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-11-18
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Posted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
If you have a good copy, it's a real gem.
But not all copies are good ones... |
I can confirm, but "bad" ones are not too bad at all. You can sell it without any problem and still hunting for better one. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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star0nfire
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 109 Location: Leiria, Portugal
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Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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star0nfire wrote:
Mine seems to be a good copy, except for a bit of oil on the blades (almost none). I'm curious.. what's the problem of having oil on the blades? _________________ http://www.flickr.com/photos/franciscogomes |
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
Love that rose shot! |
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Farside
Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 6549 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2013-12-27
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Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 12:04 am Post subject: |
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Farside wrote:
star0nfire wrote: |
Mine seems to be a good copy, except for a bit of oil on the blades (almost none). I'm curious.. what's the problem of having oil on the blades? |
It's often not a problem on a preset lens, or even an auto stop-down lens you're using manually, because you're stopping it down at a slow-ish speed; but on an auto stop-down lens it stops down quickly and the blades can stick then get bent. This is because the blades are sliding over one another and have a bit of stiction related to their surface area. They were usually designed to run dry. Sometimes, once you've stopped it down it won't open back up again.
Also, this old oil can lose its oily properties and act more like a glue, if you're unlucky. The only solution is to strip and clean. _________________ Dave - Moderator
Camera Fiend and Biograph Operator
If I wanted soot and whitewash I'd be a chimney sweep and house painter.
The Lenses of Farside (click)
BUY FRESH FOMAPAN TO HELP KEEP THE FACTORY ALIVE ---
Foma Campaign topic -
http://forum.mflenses.com/foma-campaign-t55443.html
FOMAPAN on forum -
http://www.mflenses.com/fs.php?sw=Fomapan
Webshop EU
http://www.fomafoto.com/ |
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my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
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Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 1:04 am Post subject: |
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my_photography wrote:
LucisPictor wrote: |
If you have a good copy, it's a real gem.
But not all copies are good ones... |
I don't know if my is a good copy or not. I have not used it enough. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
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star0nfire
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 109 Location: Leiria, Portugal
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Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 3:14 am Post subject: |
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star0nfire wrote:
Farside wrote: |
star0nfire wrote: |
Mine seems to be a good copy, except for a bit of oil on the blades (almost none). I'm curious.. what's the problem of having oil on the blades? |
It's often not a problem on a preset lens, or even an auto stop-down lens you're using manually, because you're stopping it down at a slow-ish speed; but on an auto stop-down lens it stops down quickly and the blades can stick then get bent. This is because the blades are sliding over one another and have a bit of stiction related to their surface area. They were usually designed to run dry. Sometimes, once you've stopped it down it won't open back up again.
Also, this old oil can lose its oily properties and act more like a glue, if you're unlucky. The only solution is to strip and clean. |
I see. At least for now it doesn't seem to be a problem (even when shooting it on auto mode), but the oil is almost non-existant. I might consider cleaning it in the future, though. Thanks for the explanation! _________________ http://www.flickr.com/photos/franciscogomes |
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