View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:27 pm Post subject: Books, courses, websites on lighting? |
|
|
Orio wrote:
My recent experiences have showed me that I need to improve my understanding and use of artificial lighting. Available light remaines my preference but to make really outstanding prints some knowledge of studio lighting is essential. Continuous lighting (not flash) is what I am interested about. I wonder if you can recommend books, online courses, web sites that teach about this (what equipment to buy, how to place lights, different lighting schemes to try, etc) _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bob
Joined: 15 Mar 2007 Posts: 675 Location: Wentzville, Mo.
Expire: 2011-12-08
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 1:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
Bob wrote:
A good place to start. Look under Taking the Mystery Out Of Lighting.
http://www.montezucker.com/
Another site, very traditional, look under lighting.
http://jzportraits.home.att.net/ _________________ Bob
"In terms of addiction, there is nothing more powerful than men's toys."
Sammy Davis Jr. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 12:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
A G Photography wrote:
There's plenty of books on Amazon about lightning.
The best one is http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240802756. You have to read it, then start again at least 3 times I'm not joking, all the essentials (and more) are there.
For the rest you have to decide which subjects you want to shoot.
Still life? Fashion? Portraiture? Lifestyle? Cars? Events?
Just as an example if you want to shoot fashion you'll need pretty powerful flashes because you need to light a whole figure (sometimes more than 1). It is possible to shoot fashion with continuos light and a lot of high-level pros do it but they can afford to rent cinema HMI lights (buying them is out of question, believe me) and the people to manouvrate them.
For portraiture you need less power because you shoot closer and usually with larger aperture, still flashes are cheaper and more practical than fluorescent lights (people is moving).
For Still life you can goes also with cheap fluorescent lightning since exposure time is not an issue with not moving subjects, still cheap fluorescent lights don't have all the light modifiers monotorch flashes have (snoots, dishes, reflectors, etc) and you can always just use the pilot tungsten lights of flashes if you want to shoot in continuos with digital cameras, just set accordingly the WB.
Lights are just a part of what you'll need, you'll also need panels, flags, backdrops, reflectors, mirrors, etc etc Just get some time to time once you'll get more and more experienced and need arise. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
Thank you both!
I have a lot to learn on the subject - not aesthetically, because I know what I want - but I need to learn how to obtain it technically.
I know that flashes are probably the best way but there is something with flash images, that leaves me cold, while I have realized that by mixing natural light and continuous artificial light it is possible to obtain great results that have a clarity of detail not too distant from that obtained by flashes, and at the same time, an "organic" fluid quality of the light that I rarely see in flash lightened images. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 2:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
A G Photography wrote:
Good tecnique is what makes artificial light (like flashes) looks like natural light
That's the trick with lightning. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009 Posts: 406
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 8:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
jjphoto wrote:
I don't really understand why you don't like flash, because I disagree with your description of it, but continuous lighting is certainly much cheaper.
Last edited by jjphoto on Sun Mar 10, 2013 10:06 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shad309
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 453 Location: Illinois, USA
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 9:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
shad309 wrote:
Orio,
I'm assuming that you have heard of strobist. http://strobist.blogspot.com/ I have found this site to be extremely helpful with lighting.
By the way, OMG what a NICE avatar _________________ Canon 400D & 350D
Lenses- German, Japanese, & Russian |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
jjphoto wrote: |
I don't really understand why you don't like flash, because I disagree with your description of it, but continuous lighting is certainly much cheaper.
I shoot cars for a living and have shot them with tungsten and flash and flash is much easier and faster to use so that's all I use these days.
JJ |
hi,
I respect much the work of those professionals who use flashes, but I still find the result of flash lighting not to be of my liking, as it feels too surgical precise for me. Just a matter of taste... _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
shad309 wrote: |
Orio,
I'm assuming that you have heard of strobist. http://strobist.blogspot.com/ I have found this site to be extremely helpful with lighting.
|
Thanks Shad, I know the site, it surely looks like a terrific lot of useful info but it's too difficult for me. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shad309
Joined: 08 Mar 2008 Posts: 453 Location: Illinois, USA
|
Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 4:06 am Post subject: |
|
|
shad309 wrote:
well, just be glad you have digital you can shoot all day until you get it right. even if you dont', you didn't wast a lot of film & money to find out you messed up _________________ Canon 400D & 350D
Lenses- German, Japanese, & Russian |
|
Back to top |
|
|
A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
|
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 5:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
A G Photography wrote:
Hmm... when it comes to lighting instruments it isn't a matter of "taste" or "I like, I dislike". It's not the right attitude.
It just a matter to use the right equipment to do the job, usually under the costrain of a budget.
It's the photographer's task to arrange the lights and modify them so to get the results he want.
Sometimes you just need a white reflective panel, another time you could need 3000 watts in flashes. Then you can't afford them and have to think if and how you can get similar results in another way, and sometimes you simply find that you can't. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 1212
|
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 11:27 am Post subject: |
|
|
zewrak wrote:
I use two 300ws flashes with 60x100cm softboxes. I have come to the conclusion that this is way more then I need to get the basics down. It's a cheap set (cost me about 300€), with stands, radiotrigger, flashes, softboxes and bag to fit it all. There is also a 150watt modellight that you could acctually use as continues light if you wanted. Its damn bright at maximum power.
I don't think it looks too unnatural either. It all depends on how you do it really and your skills, that grows fast if you use the lights. I recommend getting a mannequin (life size doll) for practicing though. It takes alot of time and models that can stand you running around setting lights for 45 minutes before a shot, are rare.
Some images I have done using the cheap set, i am a beginner though, so be gentle .
I think the flashes are versatile enough to make you able to do whatever light you want. However, if you go for strobes, make sure that you can LOWER the power enough. Mine got 64 steps. Which is good, because in my limited space (7x4x2.2m) i have found that I have more trouble to get low enough then high enough. I rarely go over minimum power.
Another thing to remember is that continuos lights, do get hot, I can feel it even with 150w model light, even though the flashes got fans. And continous lights eat power. Alot of power. _________________ My homepage, all manual shots |
|
Back to top |
|
|
A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
|
Posted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
A G Photography wrote:
Nice shots Zewrak, especially the 2 and 5. What I like is that you managed to make the lights look natural. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
|
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 12:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
Orio wrote:
Maybe Alessandro I can use this to explain some of my views.
I like much Zewrak pictures, but their light does not look natural to me. I would personally define it maybe "theatrical". Which is also cool, but different.
In fact I rarely saw natural light come from two sources with equal or almost equal strenght, as it happens (curiously) exactly in the two photos that you liked better, #2 and #5.
In nature, I would see that happen -maybe- in a closed room with two opposite windows, in the summer at noon, when the sun in the sky is near the apical point (zenith or nadir, I can't remember the correct name)
So I would define it as a very rare, extreme situation.
In all other natural situation, the natural light would come stronger on one side and weaker on the other - except for overcast sky, in which case light would not be directional. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008 Posts: 842 Location: Boston, Ma USA
Expire: 2014-11-22
|
Posted: Wed Apr 15, 2009 4:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
Bruce wrote:
For constant lighting I’ve always used Arri when doing video. Arri makes a real nice light and it’s a fine German company. I own two 1-K’s, 1-650k, and 1-300k fresnel light.
I also own a Lowel kit for kickers.
Once one understands 3-point lighting [keys, fills, and rims] it all becomes intuitive but I always find these Arri sights informative. http://www.videotexsystems.com/files/arri_lighting_handbook_english.pdf
Oh yea, you also need a light meter, but you probably already have. _________________ Digital: Canon 40d & 5DmkII, Film: Hasselblad 203fe/Zeiss 80/2.8 cfe
Adapters for EOS: Cy; M42; Zenit39; Exakta; LeicaR; OlympusOM; PK; Nikon; Rollei35; Retina; Adaptal; P-6 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
LeFanch
Joined: 12 Apr 2007 Posts: 103 Location: Biganos (France) and Norway
|
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:09 am Post subject: |
|
|
LeFanch wrote:
I have that one. Really a great book. And 3 times is a minimum, indeed! _________________ Pentax K5, K10D + grips.
M42 (Russian) : Peleng 8/3.5, Zenitar 16/2.8, Industar-2 50/3.5, Helios-44M6, Jupiter 9 + 37A, Rubinar 500/8.
M42 (German) : Flek 20/4 + 35/2.4, Pentacon 29/2.8 + 50/1.8 + 200/4 + 300/4 + 500/5.6
M42 (Japanese) : Chinon 28/2.8, Sears 55/1.4
Tamron AD2: SP 17/3.5, 24/2.5, 28/2.5, SP 90/2.5, 135/2.5, 200/3.5, SP 300/5.6, 80-210/3.8-4
PK : M 28/3.5, M 50/1.7 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
|
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
A G Photography wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Maybe Alessandro I can use this to explain some of my views.
I like much Zewrak pictures, but their light does not look natural to me. I would personally define it maybe "theatrical". Which is also cool, but different.
In fact I rarely saw natural light come from two sources with equal or almost equal strenght, as it happens (curiously) exactly in the two photos that you liked better, #2 and #5.
In nature, I would see that happen -maybe- in a closed room with two opposite windows, in the summer at noon, when the sun in the sky is near the apical point (zenith or nadir, I can't remember the correct name)
So I would define it as a very rare, extreme situation.
In all other natural situation, the natural light would come stronger on one side and weaker on the other - except for overcast sky, in which case light would not be directional. |
It's always a matter of taste, but indeed the situations where natural light is really enough interesting to make the shot are rare, this is why we use artificial lightning, to make shots interesting at our will.
A portrait taken in an overcast day is plain and boring, just wait for a strong directional light at dusk and you already have something better, put a white wall on the other side of the subject and you usually have a 2 to 1 lightning ratio similar to zewrak's shot #5 (which is more a 2 to 1.5). _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
|
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 9:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
PaulC wrote:
Orio, it surely doesn't matter if it is continuous lighting or flash, you can have one, two or three or more light sources and get identical results with either. I think that perhaps the only thing that is different between flash and continuous is that flash freezes the instant exactly, whereas instant could be used with motion blur to a greater or lesser extent. Perhaps that is what you like.
Natural lighting is more fixed, usually with a single source at a fixed angle with or without natural softbox (clouds). Just because it is natural doesn't mean it is good, it can be horrible - as a billion amateur backlit portraits will show, not to mention a lot of my street shots with harsh Middle Eastern sunshine casting black shadows from white buildings. If you get good at artificial lighting (which I wish I was) you can mimic natural light exactly.
I'm sure the many photographers here who are much better than I am will correct me if there are any mistakes in that. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008 Posts: 5883 Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
|
Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2009 10:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
Nesster wrote:
If interested here's a 1938 guide to lighting
_________________ -Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|