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Bessa I
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:01 pm    Post subject: Bessa I Reply with quote

Hello:

My first medium format, my first vintage and my first range-finder all in one. I am waiting for my "new" Bessa I w/ the 4.5 skopar lens.

Can someone recommend good B&W film that works well with this camera? I am asare that lower ASA speeds work better. Does this lens work well with color as well..and at lower ASA as well?

I usually shoot digital (Nikon D70S) so this is a learning curve for me. I hope to scan my negatives w/an Epson V500 and do the post processing with Photoshop elements. I can use any suggestions that can come my way.


PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome!

Nothing compare with slide especially large one. You can convert into B&W anytime.


PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firstly, welcome to the group.

There is no such thing as a "B&W film that works well with this camera".
As for what film, there is not much choice today in medium format. But one thing that we can safely say is that all commercial film today is much better than any film that existed when the Bessa I was created.
So you pretty much are on safe ground, of course much of your results will depend on how you will develop and print your B&W film.

About colour film, if the lens is a Skopar and not a Color Skopar, it means that it was designed for B&W. This does not mean necessarily that the colour results will be bad. It just means that the Skopar was not as corrected for the chromatic aberrations as the Color Skopar was. But these often are subtelties and in the real world, the difference will be imperceptible most of the times.


PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the week of disagreement with Attila Laughing

While color slides are great and I also had good results convrting them to B&W after scanning I sitll think that nothing compares for B&W to use good B&W film.

I'm fond of Kodak trix and Fomapan, both at 400 ISO (useful if you're shooting in the street under different light conditions).


PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing


PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fomapan is an old-fashioned film - can't remember which formula it uses but it does give nice results. The one drawback with it is that I've found it tends to curl a bit, making scanning more difficult. Neopan Acros 100, on the other hand, I've found to be nice and flat.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Adox CHS100/Efke KB21. Gets nice and curly, like wrestling a spring Laughing process it above about 21 or 22 deg C and even the bloody emulsion falls of (it does, really!)

But the results are lovely. Probably one of the last of the high-silver content films Surprised

Fomapan sounds interesting, I think I should get some for a try Cool


PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 2:30 pm    Post subject: Bessa I thank you Reply with quote

Thank you to all who have responded. I especially appreciate the suggestion of film type/speed for street photography using the Bessa I.

This will be a learning curve...I am mostly a street photographer using digital, but I want the craft and the look that comes with the BESSA.

I have used a PENTAX ME Super in the past, but never medium format and never primarily B&W. I look to this forum as a way to learn.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remember that with a huge negative and a 105 or 110mm lens you probably want to use your top shutter speed for street photography, otherwise blurred negs will be a big problem.

Contrary to Zeiss's 1950 adverts, nobody can learn to hand-hold a 6x9 at 1/25th and get perfect results Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for 6x9 Tripod, tripod, tripod + F8 at least hard to get right focus if you use top speed due no internal RF.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fair enough, Attila, a tripod is always best, but in my mind street photography means something else. If you think sunny f16, then a 200ASA film is going to give you a chance of a decent shutter speed and a decent aperture, maybe f8 at 1/500 (which is probably 1/400) if you have it, or f16 at 1/200.

Go to one of the slow films and hand-holding becomes impossible. To my mind, 1/200 is the SLOWEST shutter speed that produces (and not always) good handheld shots from a 6x9. On the 6x6 with an 80mm lens, 1/160 or even 1/125 are possible.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 10, 2009 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive shot with ASA400 - XP2 and BW400CN and had good results. Usually though I use 160 speed color, Fuji or Kodak. Remember the lens is 105mm and light weight - you do want to keep the shutter speed high-ish. OTH you can always put the camera down on something to steady it.

I assume this is the '50s Bessa, so it is coated. I actually like the uncoated lenses with color too, but then I like strange things.


PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had good luck with Ilford HP5 at ASA 400 or 800 (pushed) for moving animals and people.

For tripod work, I've always loved Plus-X 125.


PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orio wrote:

About colour film, if the lens is a Skopar and not a Color Skopar, it means that it was designed for B&W. This does not mean necessarily that the colour results will be bad. It just means that the Skopar was not as corrected for the chromatic aberrations as the Color Skopar was. But these often are subtelties and in the real world, the difference will be imperceptible most of the times.


The extra corrections of the Color Skopar are mainly for astigmatism and spherical aberrations. Any sharp old lens had to be properly color corrected to be sharp, and the Skopar is very sharp like all well made four glass triplets (Tessar). Being coated will affect the IQ more.

BTW, more correction for spherical aberration means a somewhat poorer bokeh, especially in cameras with unit focusing instead of front cell focusing (a front cell lens focused at 1m will produce a lot of spherical aberration, which is the secret of the "Radionar bokeh".)

Veijo


PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PaulC wrote:
Remember that with a huge negative and a 105 or 110mm lens you probably want to use your top shutter speed for street photography, otherwise blurred negs will be a big problem.

Contrary to Zeiss's 1950 adverts, nobody can learn to hand-hold a 6x9 at 1/25th and get perfect results Rolling Eyes


In 1950, most prints with a 6x9 were just contact prints, which was rather forgiving. It is, however, quite possible to shoot hand-held at 1/25th for larger prints also. I've got a 1912 Folding Pocket Brownie with a single "instant" speed of 1/25th. The camera has just a meniscus lens and my specimen had film flatness problems due to a missing spring when I was testing it, and I'm not very convinced about the focusing accuracy, but I got a few quite decent shots like, e.g., http://galactinus.net/vilva/retro/fpb_files/kuhmo_church_3000.jpg. The shutter causes no vibrations so it is more a matter of synchronizing the shutter release with your breathing, just like when shooting with a gun.

Veijo


PostPosted: Sat Apr 11, 2009 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ilford HP5 Plus is a very nice film for meduium format, developed in Ilford LC29 1:19 it looks great.

JJ


PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:35 pm    Post subject: Fim for the BESSA I Reply with quote

Agian, thank you for the comments and suggestions for me; I appreciate it very much.

After quite a search in my area (SE Wisconsin, USA), I could only locate Kodak TMY 120 ISO 400.

I guess I will buy my film on line from now on.