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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:05 am Post subject: Yet Another Broken Tessar: Can't remove aperture selector? |
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tromboads wrote:
My example is the tiny 1950's (serial 4716620) f2.8 50m
Everything was stuck solid, so i followed the usually guides,
http://oomz.net/tessar/
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-81.html
But I find I'm still stuck getting the aperture out so I can clean the control blades etc etc The back and front name plate has been no worries (after I cut a plug up for the name plate)
Sorry if this has been asked numerous times, the search function within this site is a little hit and miss, and I've run out of queries to pump into google
Attached is as far as I have come in disassemble
The red white balance is to help express the hell and frustration i find myself in . Just how do i get the rest of the body apart to service the aperture blades and control?
Any hints of shoves in the right direction will be greeted with joys and exuberance!
Regards
Dan
Last edited by tromboads on Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:36 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3669 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
I have a lens that looks similar, the aperture cup(with the slots) is held in by a ring, which in turn is held in by a grub screw(s).
Loosen the grub screw(s), the aperture cup is turned by a screw with a long head which slots into the aperture ring, so I think the aperture ring is the next thing to remove. _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
hmmm curious.
there are no screw heads exposed in my example so I feel kinda stuck. I nearly feel as if there is another "name plate" type body thread which needs to be removed. I can poke and prove the apature housing, and could probably force it out but that still leaves the control unit attached.
sorry when I say control unit I mean the circular aperture selector and the rail it must move on, which ultimately is what I'm trying to get at. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6943 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:31 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I really wonder if it's worth the trouble for a fairly slow, average lens. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:01 am Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
Oh its only trouble because I don't know what I'm doing :p I feel too close to want to waste it now.
And if some one has been where I've been, it wont be trouble for much longer ;p
As for its worth, yes I don't imagine this to be a magical key, it does seems a shame to waste an otherwise functional lens that, through no fault of its own just had all its lube dried out |
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Gummiebear
Joined: 03 Jan 2008 Posts: 4 Location: Toronto, Canada
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:08 pm Post subject: |
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Gummiebear wrote:
martinsmith99 wrote: |
I really wonder if it's worth the trouble for a fairly slow, average lens. |
I have to partly disagree with you. Yes it's somewhat slow, but all Tessar are f2.8 or slower. It's by design. I find it optically very good lens with delicious bokeh. I would say it's better than average. I enjoy shooting with it very much:
http://oldlenses.blogspot.ca/2012/03/carl-zeiss-jena-tessar-50mm-f28-sample.html
http://oldlenses.blogspot.com.au/2012/05/carl-zeiss-jena-tessar-50mm-f28-another.html
http://oldlenses.blogspot.ca/2012/05/photoessay-with-carl-zeiss-jena-tessar.html |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
Lightshow wrote: |
I have a lens that looks similar, the aperture cup(with the slots) is held in by a ring, which in turn is held in by a grub screw(s).
Loosen the grub screw(s), the aperture cup is turned by a screw with a long head which slots into the aperture ring, so I think the aperture ring is the next thing to remove. |
Turning the lens face down i can see what apears to be the grub screw that holds the internal aperture ring down against the rear element. I cant access it tho (thread points 90 degrees out of the body) along the rail for it to move, because of the pre-set selector being in the road. I must have to remove that first, but again I'm at an end of my understanding |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
i hope too to! providing i can get it opened
#UPDATE.
So i left it in a tub of kero overnight, next morning still nothing. left it another night Smooooooooooooth as can be. Still. the blades now have come loose and are wondering over the rear element. Ironic that now its in a workable position I'm still stuck needing to get under them still to put them back together.
Next time someone tries this, use some tape to hold the ring down, leave it in kero over night then put it back together and shoot with the dam thing.
"sigh" |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1782 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:07 am Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
So no one can remember how to remove the aperture selector so I can get at the aperture ring?
This lens thus far literally survived the cold war and a depression or 3 It would seem be a shame for its death to be due to simple ignorance. |
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012 Posts: 316 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
Quote: |
So no one can remember how to remove the aperture selector |
Did you ever find you how to remove it? |
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