| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
Phenix jc
 Joined: 19 Dec 2009 Posts: 398 Location: France
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 9:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
Phenix jc wrote:
3D ? Pop ? _________________ "Plonger les choses dans la lumire, c'est les plonger dans l'infini" Lonard De Vinci
f/1.2 club Zuiko : 50/1.2, 55/1.2 Rokkor : 50/1.2, 58/1.2 Nikkor : 50/1.2, 55/1.2 Third Party : Porst(Fujinon-X) 50/1.2, Porst 55/1.2 Canon : S 50/1.2, nFD 50/1.2, FL 55/1.2, R 58/1.2, nFD 85/1.2 Hexanon : 57/1.2 Nokton : 50/1.1 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
rwg
Joined: 13 Aug 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Holland
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 12:54 pm Post subject: pentacon 29mm test |
|
|
rwg wrote:
ok so i thought i would do a little test se see i i could get it when i want to get the effect.
ok so i tested out all the Fstops and il show you 3
first to clear things up this is shot on a nikon d7000 with a MC Pentacon auto 29mm f2.8 using an adapter with corrective glass.
so thats a crop factor of 1.5 1.5x29= 43.5 and that corective glass gives i beleve and extra 1.1 so 1.1x43.5= 47.85
so this would be equivalent to close to 48mm on ful frame.
first pic f2.8
so thats the first
second pic at f4.0
there we go
now from f4 to f5.6 there wasn't alot difference (the was a bit and i liked f4 better)
last one F8
i dont know what you guys see but to me it seems f4 pops the most
even the slight difference in DoF affects the pop effect a lot in my opinion.
and it might have something to do with the sharpness too.
sadly i dont have a wider lens except the tokina 11-16 but i think thats to wide but i could try i at 16mm[/img] _________________ Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0, Fujinon EBC 50mm F1.4, S-M-C Takumar 55mm F1.8, S-M-C Takumar 150mm F4.0, MC Pentacon Auto 29mm F2.8, MC pentacon electric 135mm F2.8 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
rwg
Joined: 13 Aug 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Holland
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:00 pm Post subject: |
|
|
rwg wrote:
humm i notice that once uploaded and viuwed on the forum the diffrences are smaller than wen viewed bigger in lightroom. >_< _________________ Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0, Fujinon EBC 50mm F1.4, S-M-C Takumar 55mm F1.8, S-M-C Takumar 150mm F4.0, MC Pentacon Auto 29mm F2.8, MC pentacon electric 135mm F2.8 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
pst
 Joined: 25 Aug 2010 Posts: 110 Location: Austria
Expire: 2013-08-17
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:02 pm Post subject: |
|
|
pst wrote:
Thank you rwg!!! You are the first one to mention what I was thinking all along:
It's must appear like a "real" image to our eye.
I believe it is the right combination of subject (+ sharpness), transition zone and background, plus rendition of the background (bokeh) that gives images that appear "natural" to the eye!
To get all these things right needs not only good skill, but sometimes simply luck.
The focal lenght is not very important.
The aperture has to be chosen, so that the background is out of focus, but not too much, so this it totally dependent on focal length and distance, so use whatever Fstop is "required"! Even more important than background is the transition zone! There must be elements binding the subject and the background in this transition zone! The rendition of the zone and background are of course lens dependent, the lens is of extreme importance IMO! But don't forget; All the artistic decision considering perception must be met!
On Canon lenses:
I really enjoy my Canon lenses, but I don't think they do much 3D. (Don't confuse it with "pop", plenty of that possible with large aperture lenses.)
That's the reason I got into (old) MF lenses, there is just a something that modern lenses can't do  _________________ Regards, Patrick. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ManualFocus-G
 Joined: 29 Dec 2008 Posts: 6674 Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ManualFocus-G wrote:
I believe several things are needed:
1. Composition
2. High micro-contrast
3. Accurate focusing of the subject
4. An f stop which produces a sharp subject
5. Some shallowish depth of field somewhere in the image _________________ Graham - Moderator
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
rwg
Joined: 13 Aug 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Holland
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
rwg wrote:
yeah i totaly agree manualfocus-g i think we got the ingredients (or at least a bunch of them)
now we can try to achieve it when we want the effect.
ah yes centaur i think you are right about the focal length i saw some 200mm shots of birds in flight with very ugly buildings in the background but the rending of these out of focus buildings seemed natural and made the birds pop. ofc the birds were sharp enough to look real. _________________ Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0, Fujinon EBC 50mm F1.4, S-M-C Takumar 55mm F1.8, S-M-C Takumar 150mm F4.0, MC Pentacon Auto 29mm F2.8, MC pentacon electric 135mm F2.8 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ChromaticAberration
 Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 827 Location: Portugal
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 1:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ChromaticAberration wrote:
| cooltouch wrote: |
(...)
It's not quite that simple apparently. Think of a 3D movie that you have to wear the glasses to watch and how at times objects seem to reach out at you. That's what they mean. So it does not necessarily mean a hard separation between subject and background/foreground. Rather one where the subject seems to "grow" toward the viewer.
(...) |
| ManualFocus-G wrote: |
That's certainly what I consider "pop" and many people consider "3D". I think others on here would describe 3D as an image where it appears that objects "pop" in what seems like different focal planes. That is REALLY difficult to do, but possible nonetheless  |
Well in that case I would bet that we are purely talking about a mixture of clever composition and shallow depth of field.
On the other hand, if it's not something you can write into a couple of instructions than it is a bit of a stretch even to consider it a technique because so far I get the idea it is almost a lens-formula-specific effect. _________________ Body: Fujifilm X-E1
Landscapes: Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Macro: Vivitar Series 1 105mm ƒ/2.5
Portrait: Helios-44 58mm ƒ/2.0
Low-light: SMC Takumar 50mm ƒ/1.4
_________________
Marketplace feedback
_________________
a pнoтograpн ιѕ neιтнer тaĸen or ѕeιzed вy ғorce. ιт oғғerѕ ιтѕelғ υp. ιт ιѕ тнe pнoтo тнaт тaĸeѕ yoυ. one мυѕт noт тaĸe pнoтoѕ.” – нenrι carтιer-вreѕѕon |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
peterqd
 Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 8068 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
It is our eyes and brain that makes the impression of 3D, based on the perspective (i.e. the reduction in size of the background). If the background is so blurred it becomes indistinct, then the impression of 3D is lost.
I think the most important aspect, more than the depth of field, is the ratio of the distances from camera to subject and subject to background. The focal length has to be factored in as well.
Minolta Tele-Rokkor MC 3.5/135
 _________________ Peter - Moderator
Last edited by peterqd on Sun Aug 14, 2011 3:25 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
rwg
Joined: 13 Aug 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Holland
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
rwg wrote:
while lens formula probably a big factor in this. it determines how micro-contrast sharpness bokeh ect. ect. is handled.
It cant be just lens formula or els we would have had an answer to the OP question already. because in that case certain formulas would always generate 3d/pop pictures. And it would be easy to point out the different lenses. _________________ Helios 44-2 58mm f2.0, Fujinon EBC 50mm F1.4, S-M-C Takumar 55mm F1.8, S-M-C Takumar 150mm F4.0, MC Pentacon Auto 29mm F2.8, MC pentacon electric 135mm F2.8 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
metallaro1980
 Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
metallaro1980 wrote:
Carl Zeiss Planar T* 1.4/50 _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
pst
 Joined: 25 Aug 2010 Posts: 110 Location: Austria
Expire: 2013-08-17
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 5:36 pm Post subject: |
|
|
pst wrote:
| ChromaticAberration wrote: |
On the other hand, if it's not something you can write into a couple of instructions than it is a bit of a stretch even to consider it a technique because so far I get the idea it is almost a lens-formula-specific effect. |
I would say it's both. I think it's really only possible with a limited number of lenses but I do think there's a recipy for the artistic part:
I only came up with this recipy recently, and with my limited experience it seems a little early to share, but it works well for me...
.The subject in the foreground needs to be decently sharp (no glow, etc).
.The trasition zone needs elements blending the subject with background.
.The background needs to be only slighty blurred. (This is the hardest part, which is most up to the photographer)..
.The light is not so important (but diffuse light works better, IMHO)
.The effect only really shows with less-than perfect bokeh (not "cream"). I find totally smooth bokeh does not work as good as "character" bokeh. But this is totally lens dependent. I realized my CZJ 180/2.8 produces visible outlining on OOF highlight, but renders with more depth than smoother Orestor 135.
Two examples with CZJ 180/2.8:
To finally make things complicated: Another experience that I made (but is totally unresearched) is that slight motion blur (to long exposure, eg. 1/40sec on 85mm lens) can make some very good 3D feeling, even with lenses not otherwise suitable for this. But I'll have to investigate this better.. _________________ Regards, Patrick. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
peterqd
 Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 8068 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
|
Posted: Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
peterqd wrote:
| Centaur wrote: |
| But I'll have to investigate this better.. |
That's the best advice I think. Don't rush into buying a lens just for 3D pictures until you understand the principles. Keep experimenting until you know how to create good 3D pictures, what are the best focal lengths, distances, aperture settings, light direction, etc etc. Only when you understand it can you decide what lens is best, and I'm betting we could all produce pretty good 3D pictures with some of the lenses we already have. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Omar
 Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Posts: 1401 Location: Sweden
Expire: 2011-02-21
|
Posted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 11:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Omar wrote:
How about this for 3d?
Distagon 35 1.4 Wide open. This is not only separation of the main subject...I can feel the space between everything in this picture.
 _________________ Sony A7 + Carl Zeiss T* |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
uhoh7
 Joined: 24 Nov 2010 Posts: 1309 Location: Idaho, USA
|
Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 2:20 am Post subject: |
|
|
uhoh7 wrote:
nikkor 55/2.8
you don't have to try hard with that one
impressive since there is so little contrast--- pen 42/1.2 @ f/8 +
1956 canon LTM 85/1.5
one last:
leica 50/2 M v4
when shaded subjects pop.....
the newer CV RF lenses really pop---the 50/1.1 is a real 3D machine stopped down some. _________________ Making MFlenses safe for the letter *L*  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
timo832000
 Joined: 09 Jun 2008 Posts: 545 Location: Germany / Cologne
|
Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
timo832000 wrote:
Here is my thought:
Leitz Summicron-R 2/50 wide open. Shot was captured with K10D stitched from 2 images.
Timo _________________ I love Leica ! But I need Pentax  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
ChromaticAberration
 Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 827 Location: Portugal
|
Posted: Sat Aug 20, 2011 8:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ChromaticAberration wrote:
| Omar wrote: |
How about this for 3d?
Distagon 35 1.4 Wide open. This is not only separation of the main subject...I can feel the space between everything in this picture.
 |
Now that is what I call 3D! Damn! Very, very nice. _________________ Body: Fujifilm X-E1
Landscapes: Samyang 12mm f/2 NCS CS
Macro: Vivitar Series 1 105mm ƒ/2.5
Portrait: Helios-44 58mm ƒ/2.0
Low-light: SMC Takumar 50mm ƒ/1.4
_________________
Marketplace feedback
_________________
a pнoтograpн ιѕ neιтнer тaĸen or ѕeιzed вy ғorce. ιт oғғerѕ ιтѕelғ υp. ιт ιѕ тнe pнoтo тнaт тaĸeѕ yoυ. one мυѕт noт тaĸe pнoтoѕ.” – нenrι carтιer-вreѕѕon |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
metallaro1980
 Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
|
Posted: Mon Aug 22, 2011 12:00 am Post subject: |
|
|
metallaro1980 wrote:
3D? _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
metallaro1980
 Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
|
Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
metallaro1980 wrote:
Plasticity is the ability of a lens to convey the images exposed on the film the precise sense of photographed volume (a ball looks like a sphere or a circle?).
Difficult to explain in words (but only a few minutes and two lenses, one plastic and the other not-plastic, to make it clear to anyone what I'm talking about)
So plasticity is an objective parameter ... impossible to measure.
i think you mean plasticity not 3d _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses.... |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Frogfish
 Joined: 06 Apr 2010 Posts: 57 Location: Shanghai
|
Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Frogfish wrote:
Great thread and some wonderful shots !
One of my first shots with my new C.Zeiss 85/1.4. Sat at a cafe waiting for a client. Shot at f2.8.
 _________________ http://frogfish.smugmug.com/
Nikon D800E, D600, Zeiss Distagon 21/2.8, Zeiss Distagon 35/2, Nikon 300/2.8 VRII, Sigma 500/4.5 (for sale), Sigma 120-300/2.8, Nikon 85/1.8G, Sigma 50/1.4, Nikon TC20EIII, Nikon TC14EII, Sigma DG x2.0 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
metallaro1980
 Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
|
Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
metallaro1980 wrote:
Orestor 2.8/100
the bokeh!!!!
O.O _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses....
Last edited by metallaro1980 on Fri Sep 02, 2011 2:07 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
nixland
 Joined: 30 Jan 2011 Posts: 578
Expire: 2012-07-29
|
Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2011 9:40 pm Post subject: Re: pentacon 29mm test |
|
|
nixland wrote:
| rwg wrote: |
...
second pic at f4.0
....
i dont know what you guys see but to me it seems f4 pops the most
even the slight difference in DoF affects the pop effect a lot in my opinion.
and it might have something to do with the sharpness too.
[/img] |
Yes, for my eyes, the f/4 shot looks more popped-out than at wide-open. I think the blur quality of out of focus area can make a different. Maybe a more natural blur level that mimic our sight could add a more pop-out look (the blur not to creamy or too soft). Maybe.  _________________ Carl Zeiss Jena: Biotar 58/2 1Q, DDR Pancolar 80/1.8 MC, Biotar 75/1.5, Biotar 10cm/2, DDR Sonnar 135/3.5 MC
Carl Zeiss C/Y: Planar 50/1.4 T*, Planar 85/1.4 T*, Planar 100/2 T*, Sonnar 135/2.8 T*
Leica: Summicron-R 35/2 v1, Summicron-R 50/2, Summilux-R 80/1.4, Summicron-R 90/2
Pentax: A 50/1.2
Minolta: Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Rokkor MC 85/1.7, Rokkor MC 100/2, MD 200/2.8
Olympus: Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2, Zuiko 50/1.2, Zuiko MC Auto-T 85/2, Zuiko Auto-T 100/2
Nikon: Nikkor 28/2.8 Ais, Nikkor 85/1.8, Nikkor 105/1.8, 300/2.8 ED (Ais)
Canon: FD 50/1.2 L, FD 85/1.2 L
Sony: 135/2.8 STF
Jupiter: 85/2 Alu
Cyclop: 85/1.5
Meyer-Optic: Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5
Samyang: 8/3.5 FE, 14/2.8, 85/1.4, 85/1.4 UMC
FOR SALE
Carl Zeiss Jena Biotar 10cm/2 || Carl Zeiss ZE Distagon 28/2 || Minolta Rokkor MD 35/1.8 || Rokkor-X MC 85/1.7 || Rokkor MD 85/1.7 || Olympus Zuiko MC Auto-W 21/2 || Olympus 100/2 || Nikon Nikkor 35/1.4 || Canon: FD 55/1.2 || Vivitar 90/2.5 Series 1 VMC || Tamron: 90/2.5 SP
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
muddus
 Joined: 27 May 2011 Posts: 234 Location: Suomi
|
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2011 1:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
muddus wrote:
OM 28/2 A nice landscape lens.
 _________________ Anselm Adams: A great photograph is one that fully expresses what one feels, in the deepest sense, about what is being photographed.
"Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.
~ Leonardo DaVinci
http://www.raksi.net/gallery/index.html
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/66108635%40N05/popular-interesting/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
metallaro1980
 Joined: 10 Sep 2009 Posts: 385 Location: West Emilia - Fidenza (PR) 43036 - Italy
|
Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 12:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
metallaro1980 wrote:
Orestor 2.8/100 _________________
Olympus OM: 28 2.8, 35 2.8, 50 1.8 Made in Japan
Contax: 50 1.4, 85 1.4
Zeiss: 135 2.0 Apo-Sonnar ZE
Leica-R: 180 3.4 Apo-Telyt-R (Leitax)
Rollei QBM: 135 2.8 Rolleinar (Leitax), 50 1.4 HFT
Canon: 50 1.8, 40 2.8
M42: Helios 50 2.0, Jupiter-37A, Jupiter-21 200 4.0
Binocular: Hensoldt & Wetzlar DF 8x30
http://andreaverdi.altervista.org/ Vivaldi lives in my lenses....
Last edited by metallaro1980 on Fri Sep 02, 2011 2:07 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Dco
Joined: 17 Aug 2009 Posts: 19 Location: Vigo, Spain
|
Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 10:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Dco wrote:
Very interesting topic!
Well, it isn't a MF lens, but i really love the 3D rendering of my Pentax 31mm Limited. The best lens I've ever used:
Closer:
Even closer:
Samyang 85mm f1.4 is very good for subject isolaction, but not so good for 3d, because of the longer focal length and the telephoto compression -I think- compared with the 31mm, but a I can get what I consider a "3d effect" image from time to time, especially with far subjects:
 _________________ Pentax K100d super, *IstD, K5
SMC-M 50mm f1.7, Sigma 24mm f2.8, Kiron 24mm f2, Samyang 85mm f1.4 Aspherical IF, Sigma 500mm f7.2
Some "evil" AF lenses |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
WallyJr74
 Joined: 12 Mar 2009 Posts: 146 Location: Canada
|
Posted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 11:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
WallyJr74 wrote:
Awesome!
| Omar wrote: |
How about this for 3d?
Distagon 35 1.4 Wide open. This is not only separation of the main subject...I can feel the space between everything in this picture.
 |
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|