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Build your own wrenches to repair lenses
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 6:53 am    Post subject: Build your own wrenches to repair lenses Reply with quote

In front of the difficulty of finding specific wrenchs for lenses, there is a cheap and easy solution to build them by yourselves:

We need a piece of a sheet of metal (brass, steel or whatever you have in hand), two bolts (with it's nuts and washers). Then use a jigsaw to cut the following shapes (two of them, identical):



Start by cutting the outer shape, then with a bit of the same diameter than the screw's diameter, make the two holes that will be the extremes of the inner shape. Then use the jigsaw to open the middle window. Be careful to keep the size equal to the screw's diameter (for tigthness). all along the way.

Once finished, then file the edges to match the notches on the lens, and you're trough!.

Regards.

Jes.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome! Thanks Jes! Doi, the adjustment feature is going to save me a LOT of material and grinding, as I was going to make a bunch of single-width 'wrenches'.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Jessito,

Thanks for the reminder. Sometimes I forget that I have a milling machine sitting out in my garage. This would be a perfect project for it.

I have a question about material, though. I have occasionally had lenses to repair where the ring was on very tight. Most recently I encountered this with a Tamron 80-200. I'm wondering if brass would be stout enough for a really tight ring. What do you think? Seems to me that, even though the ring would be aluminum most often, I might need a spanner made from steel to handle the tight ones.

Also, there are no dimensions specified on your graphic. Is the image supposed to be the actual size of the spanner? If so, I'm thinking some folks might need to build two -- one the size shown and then a larger one, if they have large diameter lenses, like mirrors, for example.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm thinking start with sheet steel, then harden those tips. Wink


PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I think of sheet steel, I'm thinking of something in a thickness range measured with a micrometer -- say 0.010" to maybe 0.050". Steel plate -- say a minimum of 1/8" thick, 3/16" would be better. Use mild steel for its machining ease, then harden the tips, yes. But don't want the tips to be too hard or they'll break.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 24, 2010 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd use mild steel and then case harden, to put a tough skin on a more malleable core around the tips.

http://www.ehow.com/how_4558811_case-harden-steel.html

Easy to do, and very effective. Obviously you wouldn't need 'several dozen charcoal briquettes just to do a small item like this, a couple will be more than enough, and a butane gas torch will get a small item red hot.


PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i use a fork. it is easy to twist and bend the thongs apart to fit any slot on the ring.


PostPosted: Thu Mar 03, 2011 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jun wrote:
i use a fork. it is easy to twist and bend the thongs apart to fit any slot on the ring.


Sound idea... Could you please post some pictures? Wink

Thanks in advance.

Jes.


PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
When I think of sheet steel, I'm thinking of something in a thickness range measured with a micrometer -- say 0.010" to maybe 0.050". Steel plate -- say a minimum of 1/8" thick, 3/16" would be better. Use mild steel for its machining ease, then harden the tips, yes. But don't want the tips to be too hard or they'll break.


Perhaps you should use what I used to know as "gauge plate". It is basically high carbon steel sheet which is dimensionally very accurate thickness wise and is supplied fully annealed. It can, being high carbon steel, be hardened and tempered after shaping.


PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

martyn_bannister wrote:
cooltouch wrote:
When I think of sheet steel, I'm thinking of something in a thickness range measured with a micrometer -- say 0.010" to maybe 0.050". Steel plate -- say a minimum of 1/8" thick, 3/16" would be better. Use mild steel for its machining ease, then harden the tips, yes. But don't want the tips to be too hard or they'll break.


Perhaps you should use what I used to know as "gauge plate". It is basically high carbon steel sheet which is dimensionally very accurate thickness wise and is supplied fully annealed. It can, being high carbon steel, be hardened and tempered after shaping.


Yes, any decent engineering supply shop will have that, and for the price it's not worth messing around with materials that might bend or break the first time some pressure is put on them.


PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've bought this and dremeled the tips

Search for: New Blue Watch case Screw-on back opener tool B003
Click here to see on Ebay - ~5USD




Last edited by alex.g on Sun Mar 20, 2011 12:42 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sun Mar 20, 2011 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great finding!, thanks for sharing.

Regards.

Jes.


PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 5:29 am    Post subject: fork smapper Reply with quote

jesito

have not read this post for a long time. anyway this is my improvise spanner fork. you MUST protect your lens element with a cloth or tape before using this. a slip would cause a scratch on the front lens!
[img][/img]


PostPosted: Sun Apr 24, 2011 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good approach!... Wink
Thanks for sharing,

Jes.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jesito for starting this nice thread. @ alex, nice find I had been managing with a clunky circle cutter I think I get this nice watch opener one. Is that sturdy enough?


PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And maybe the easiest way..




Cheers
Henry


PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be buying a watch back removal tool I think. We sell them in work, with a number of different ends, some already flat, so I may not need to Dremel them. My big question is, will it be able to reach the required diameter to remove some of the larger rings?

Assuming it's suitable, I'll post details here, so that people in the UK can pop in and get one.


PostPosted: Fri Apr 29, 2011 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pretty nice quality, those metall tips are pretty hard. you will find out when you will dremel those to fit your needs. I will get few more to have different tip wrenches.


PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2011 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NewStuff wrote:
Assuming it's suitable, I'll post details here, so that people in the UK can pop in and get one.


Yes please... Very Happy


PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just ordered two of these for $7.98USD w/free shipping. Look at all the ones he has for sale, the prices vary from 3.98 to 6.98 each in current auctions.


alex.g wrote:
I've bought this and dremeled the tips

Search for: New Blue Watch case Screw-on back opener tool B003
Click here to see on Ebay - ~5USD




PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 4:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Let us know how they work out for you.


PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

greg wrote:
I just ordered two of these for $7.98USD w/free shipping. Look at all the ones he has for sale, the prices vary from 3.98 to 6.98 each in current auctions.


alex.g wrote:
I've bought this and dremeled the tips

Search for: New Blue Watch case Screw-on back opener tool B003
Click here to see on Ebay - ~5USD



The min jaw opening many be wrong. It looks something 15-16mm.


PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

calvin83 wrote:

The min jaw opening many be wrong. It looks something 15-16mm.


Probably not. It's meant for watches.


PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2011 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
calvin83 wrote:

The min jaw opening many be wrong. It looks something 15-16mm.


Probably not. It's meant for watches.

I hope so. You can see the min opening is 1/5 of the total length in the photo.


PostPosted: Tue May 31, 2011 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just received the two watch back removers I ordered on the 15th - 2 weeks to US from China- free shipping - not bad.

As to the distances - the center to center of the tool ends is minimum 14.5mm and the maximum 56.5mm.

The adjustment is actually very fine and smooth.

It will be some time before I grind down the tips as there is no immediate use for the tool.