Tokina Tele-Auto 135mm 2.8 M42 Repair

bobflemingesq · Joined: 02 Feb 2020 Posts: 3

Hello,

Thanks to Attila for registering me. I've recently bought a cheap DSLR and starting to use cheap old M42 lenses instead of splashing out £££ on newer stuff. I can't afford much, so pick up very cheap dirty lenses in the hope I can just disassemble, clean and reassemble.

Thing is - I had no idea how difficult it would be to reassemble them...!

Does anyone have any experience with repairing a Tokina Tele-Auto 135mm 2.8? Very similar to this one: http://forum.mflenses.com/tokina-tele-auto-135mm-2-8-om-t74207,highlight,%2Btokina+%2B135mm.html

I cannot fathom out how to get to the main lens to clean it, and scared to undo anything else, having already messed up one lens in the past.

I've managed to clean the back lens, but even then, I can't get the helicoids back on to the point where it all lines up properly. I know I should have marked it all, but it just kind of fell out in my hands. I've manged to get it all back together where the focus and aperture lined up - but the focus scale wasn't lining up. When I got the focus scale to line up - the helecoid would fall out towards close focus (as it moved outwards)

It's very frustrating! But I want to learn how to do this and not only save money, but preserve what I think is a useful skill.

Alternatively; does anyone know of old lens repair shops, or someone who might be willing to teach their craft?!

Thanks for reading.

#1http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20202/big_11332_20200209_152023_1.jpg
#3http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20202/11332_20200209_152125_1.jpg
#4http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20202/11332_20200209_152033_1.jpg
#5http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20202/11332_20200209_151436_1.jpg
#6http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20202/11332_20200209_152016_1.jpg

Pictures don't seem to be showing up...?

EDIT: Sorted now Smile

DigiChromeEd · Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 3462 Location: Northern Ireland

visualopsins · Expire: 2025-04-11

Alun Thomas · Joined: 20 Aug 2018 Posts: 628 Location: New Zealand

I haven't worked on this specific lens. Normally to reassemble a lens body I would start by attaching the rotating focus adjuster to the lower body, screwing it right in, then perhaps backing it off maybe 1.5-2 turns. That ensures it has enough turns left to focus through the full range. With it adjusted so, I then try attaching the upper lens carrying part. As visualopsins said, it may involve trying the helical thread on each different starting point until the correct one is found.

Another possibility is that you can adjust the infinity focus by loosening the outer part of the focus rings connection to the actual helicoid. On some lenses there are screws on the outside of the barrel, typically three, that grip into a machined groove on the helicoid. On other lenses they may be at the top, inside the barrel, facing toward the back of the lens. You loosen the screws off, move the outer barrel around in the direction you think you need to go, then retighten them and see if you got it right, repeating the process as you get closer. Of course, some lenses just don't have this capability, and you're stuck with trying to start the helicoid on the exact correct thread need to get proper infinity focus.

D1N0 · Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2491

Getting another 135mm is always going to be much cheaper than to have it repaired.

visualopsins · Expire: 2025-04-11

bobflemingesq · Joined: 02 Feb 2020 Posts: 3

Hi all,

Thanks for the quick replies. I appreciate buying another 135mm is an easier solution, and no doubt I'll do that anyway...but I'd really like to put this lens back together if possible. I'm kicking myself, because when I briefly tested it, the potential was of the lens was exciting...it has 8 blades and although they're a bit sluggish - and not particularly sharp at 2.8 for long distance, for closer shots it was nice.

Here are a few pics I took before taking it home...

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

Both lenses on either end were quite misty and speckled with dirt...I've since cleaned them with an air blower and microfibre cloth, but reassembly....ugh! What a headache! Wish I'd not tried - but so wanting to learn as well - it'll give me confidence working on other lenses.

@Alun - great feedback and ideas there. I tried the first one already - I managed to line everything up - the two metal guides on each side of the upper helicoid, along with the aperture guide slot, and rolled them together until they wouldn't go any further. Tightened up the focal length restriction screw - and the lens moves to infinity - and stops. Perfect. But when moving it the other way, the helicoid pops out the top just before closest focus. I might try backing off a few more turns...

I don't think the 2nd option is viable on this one...I did that once on a Tokina 80-200mm and it went wrong! Had to junk it...shame as I managed to dissemble the whole thing - cleaned fungus and mist off every single element - had them sparkling clean - re-greased the threads...even re-clicked the aperture with a new ball bearing! Then messed it all up by attaching the fishplates on the zoom before making sure the helicoid was properly on...sigh...

bobflemingesq · Joined: 02 Feb 2020 Posts: 3

Hello Alun,

I followed your advice, and I think you were on to something there. I moved the focusing barrel back about a twist and half, and lo and behold, the main barrel and helicoid just about slotted in, with barely a mm to spare. Tightened up the locking screw - and was able to move the focus from close up to infinity without things falling apart; aperture ring and blades were staying together...lovely! It still wasn't quite right though - I wasn't able to focus to infinity with it. Maybe it needed a another turn?

It's moot now sadly, as my camera fell out of my bag the other day, whilst the lens was attached.

In a 1 in a 1,000,000 chance, it actually landed lens first on the hard floor. The lens broke and I thought the camera was knackered. Fortunately, the lens took the brunt of it, and the camera seems fine!

So; for £15 I learned to shoot with a 135mm manual lens, take it apart, clean and service it, reassemble it (with help) and then it turned into a one off insurance policy and saved my camera from a 5 foot fall onto a hard surface!

Not bad for someone who has only been using a DSLR for 3 months Smile

This forum, and others like it have been absolutely amazing. There's so much useful advice, reviews and lovely pictures to look at. Thanks to all who contribute. Maybe in time I will be able to help others.

PS: I've just serviced a Meyer-Optik Görlitz Orestegor 200mm F4 with success. The front of the barrel was dented really, really badly, and the thread was squashed and contorted. With a lens tool, grease, WD40, brute force and a few hours, I managed to slowly ease the front ring off and in the process created a new thread....took all the elements out, air blower, degunk, and reassemble...the ring now almost glides on!! So chuffed with myself!

Alun Thomas · Joined: 20 Aug 2018 Posts: 628 Location: New Zealand

Damn! Or - Phew! depending how you look at it. That Tokina lens is actually fairly common under other badges like Vivitar, Soligor, Sears or Lentar if you want to replace it for about the same price. It looks like the late 60s/early 70s T4 lens that was sold by both Vivitar and Soligor (Vivitar serial starting with '37', Soligor serial starting with '1', Sears serial starting with '199', Lentar serial starting with 'H6' or the years (70 - around 74 I imagine). In any case, there are dozens of other good cheap 135 lenses around, the Komine made Vivitar lens is also good for the low price it generally goes for (serial starting with '28')

KEO · Joined: 27 Sep 2018 Posts: 760 Location: USA