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Todays hike with the Helios-44K-4 (8 photos)
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 4:13 pm    Post subject: Todays hike with the Helios-44K-4 (8 photos) Reply with quote

Last week, I ordered a K-mount Helios-44K-4, since I love my M42 Helios-44M, and I sold my 44M-4 to a friend... It arrived yesterday from Latvia, and I mounted it on my camera today to join me during a hike through Northeastern Twente, NL. These shots are all made during this hike, and all with the above mentioned lens. All but the mushroom are made at f/2, the max aperture of this lens. The mushroom was made at about f/4.

I think I'll keep this copy.....Surprised


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice shots! Wink


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice. You have really good copy.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davidus wrote:
Nice. You have really good copy.


Don't think so, seek Rense pictures he can make any lens to Gold.. Laughing


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess, Attila, you're right Wink

BTW I have a 44-2 and its optical quality is more than good. Unfortunately have little mechanical problem and sometimes about a third of pic is not sharp as rest of it. It is fixable, but I'm not able to do it Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dirt cheap lens and pretty common take an another one, this is most economical way in my opinion.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

while it is true, all of renses photos are wonderful, i have to say the mushrooms really pop. i wonder if you think its because that one was stopped down to f4?


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

symphonic wrote:
Very nice shots! Wink

+1, great rendering


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stopped down always help a lot in my opinion , I did start to test all lenses at F5.6 as common sense for speed and availability for most lenses. When I saw many great photos taken at F8 with common lenses like Helios 44 I did start to use F8 at least if possible. I guess my success ratio is highly increased.


PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is difficult and also not really correct to make a general statement, because every lens is a world apart, but, usually, f/8 is a point where most lenses except for modern big slow AF zooms have past their optimal peak "spot" performance, but usually have still good spot performance coupled with more uniform rendition over the whole frame.

In other words, the best point (sweet spot) of a typical lens whose widest aperture is between f/2 and f/2.8, is found at f/5.6 (and usually in the centre); while the most uniform rendition is found at f/8, where the centre is a bit weaker than f/5.6 but the edges are better than f/5.6

Like I said, this is a generalization, which is not really good, because each lens is a case apart.
Besides, many fast lenses have their sweet spot earlier, like at f/2.8 or f/4

Another thing to consider, this generalization works better for full frame cameras. For crop cameras, which usually pack more sensor cells in a smaller space, diffraction enters the scene earlier. For instance, while a 5D is safely shot also at f/11, a 50D (camera that I own) begins to show diffraction already at f/8.
For Micro 4/3 the situation might be even worse, I have no sure data but I would not be surprised if a micro 4/3 sensor would cause diffraction to appear already at f/5.6

So to recap, on a full frame camera, or on a film camera, an aperture of f/5.6 (or earlier if the lens is very fast) can be considered the best choice to show the maximum sharpness in the best area of the image. While an aperture of f/8 can be considered the best choice if you want to emphasize the whole frame performance (including corners) rather than the single sweet spot point performance.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my totally non technical probably silly rule of thumb was/is sweet spot of any lens for non infinity focus is double its open aperture, eg a 2.0 lens is best at 4.0, a 2.8 open ap lens best at 5.6 etc. and then add 1 more stop to that to get the best of that same lens at infinity focus. so the 2.0 lens best at infinity at 5.6; the 2.8 at 8.0 etc

again that is just my silly rule that helps me, but it probably is totally unsupportable!

Embarassed


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
Dirt cheap lens and pretty common take an another one, this is most economical way in my opinion.


Yes. The question is, if I get one in (at least) same optical quality.


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rbelyell wrote:
my totally non technical probably silly rule of thumb was/is sweet spot of any lens for non infinity focus is double its open aperture, eg a 2.0 lens is best at 4.0, a 2.8 open ap lens best at 5.6 etc. and then add 1 more stop to that to get the best of that same lens at infinity focus. so the 2.0 lens best at infinity at 5.6; the 2.8 at 8.0 etc

again that is just my silly rule that helps me, but it probably is totally unsupportable!

Embarassed


Couldn't use your rules yesterday as the sun is getting weak in the UK at 12 o'clock, 100asa was F5.6 @ 1/60 sec and the lens was 65mm and WO is F4.5..... and I didn't have a tripod.


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow! that IS some weak sun! typically in mid day sun 100 asa at 5.6 yields shutter speed of 1000!

of course there are many reasons to shoot at apertures other than the lens 'sweet' spot; and many more reasons not to use my silly rule!


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orio wrote:

Another thing to consider, this generalization works better for full frame cameras. For crop cameras, which usually pack more sensor cells in a smaller space, diffraction enters the scene earlier. For instance, while a 5D is safely shot also at f/11, a 50D (camera that I own) begins to show diffraction already at f/8.
For Micro 4/3 the situation might be even worse, I have no sure data but I would not be surprised if a micro 4/3 sensor would cause diffraction to appear already at f/5.6


Even worse, many compact digital cameras do not even have f/8.
Most have a smallest aperture of f/7.1 or so.


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davidus wrote:
Attila wrote:
Dirt cheap lens and pretty common take an another one, this is most economical way in my opinion.


Yes. The question is, if I get one in (at least) same optical quality.


90% chance yes.


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
Davidus wrote:
Attila wrote:
Dirt cheap lens and pretty common take an another one, this is most economical way in my opinion.


Yes. The question is, if I get one in (at least) same optical quality.


90% chance yes.


Probably even more! Thanks for looking and commenting all of you!


PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One question, Rense.
What do you think? Is 44-4 better then 44-2?


PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Davidus wrote:
One question, Rense.
What do you think? Is 44-4 better then 44-2?


I really don't know, never had the 44-2. I have the 44M, and the 44K-4 now....


PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never mind. I think, 44-2 will be good again.