View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 3:31 am Post subject: Tamron 90/2.5 52B Reassembly? |
|
|
Mike Deep wrote:
I was experiencing problems with the aperture on my 52B, the same problems as described in this thread. Specifically the aperture was snapping open when focusing, and also failing to open or close beyond a certain point. So I figured I would dive in and see what was up.
That was a terrible, terrible idea.
I have the lens fully disassembled, save for the optical block. I cannot figure out how to get those opposing helicoids back together correctly. I've had them threaded back together several times now, but the positioning is always off. Is there a trick to this? _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 7:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
Gardener wrote:
The trick would have been to mark the correct position before you disengaged the helicoids. Now your only option is to try every possible combo. It's a PITA, but it can be done. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
guardian
Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 1749
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 12:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
guardian wrote:
Gardener wrote: |
The trick would have been to mark the correct position before you disengaged the helicoids. Now your only option is to try every possible combo. It's a PITA, but it can be done. |
Agreed. The only "trick" now remaining is:
If at first you don't succeed, try, try again.
Those tries could consume a remarkable amount of time, though. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 8:55 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Mike Deep wrote:
What a blunder. I'll come back and attack it again one day. _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7785 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
|
Posted: Thu May 29, 2014 9:17 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Lloydy wrote:
It's worth saving, I spent hours trying the different permutations of which element went where, and which way up, after I took it apart to clean slight fungus from one element, laid them all out carefully the right way and in order, then kicked the table leg and sent them flying! I took it out today, it's one of my favorite lenses.
Persevere. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1304 Location: Conwy N Wales
|
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 11:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
marcusBMG wrote:
Any chance of a brief disassembly outline/info? I have a 52B with a sticky/crunchy focus. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7785 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
|
Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
Lloydy wrote:
Any information I had is lost, my old computer crashed and it's gone. But there is some information on the internet, I'll have a look. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
pooschey
Joined: 03 Jun 2010 Posts: 21
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7785 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
|
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 1:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Lloydy wrote:
Excellent links, really good information there. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1304 Location: Conwy N Wales
|
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 4:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
marcusBMG wrote:
Good info (tho the one is actually for the 52BB) have to have a go at my 52B,.. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
pooschey
Joined: 03 Jun 2010 Posts: 21
|
Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 3:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
pooschey wrote:
I believe the only differences are cosmetics.
marcusBMG wrote: |
Good info (tho the one is actually for the 52BB) have to have a go at my 52B,.. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
lumens pixel
Joined: 27 Feb 2019 Posts: 834
Expire: 2021-06-25
|
Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 4:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
lumens pixel wrote:
I am seeking some help about this lens but more generally about cementation issues.
I recently bought an excellent Tamron 52B and realised after a while a VERY slight haze behind the front group. When observed in the sun there is no problems but under a led light and at approx 45° angle the veil is there.
I do not suffer from loss of contrast in normal conditions but if sun is close or in the viewfinder there is an issue.
I followed the excellent explanations given under the link found above https://k10dpentax.blogspot.com/2011/04/cleaning-haze-tamron-sp90-f25-52b.html
opened the lens and realised it was not haze but a kind of veil in a cemented group (the one in second position). After cleaning the surfaces of the cemented group the veil was still there and obviously at the junction level.
I managed to put the lens back together (happy I managed to do it).
I know I should live with it and take nice photos rather than try to solve a non problem but my nature is otherwise.
So my question is: Is there a way to cure cementation problems other than fully decementing and recementing which might be above my skill levels. I don't have V blocks (and one of the lens forming the group is somewhat tapered) and obviously do not own a collimation laser.
I do not know if the group is cemented with Canada balm or something epoxy.
My secret wish is that someone having experienced this issue has put the group in an oven at a temperature allowing cementation to get back to its original state without complete decementation and movement between the cemented elements.
I might be asking too much. Thanks for any insights. _________________ Lumens Pixel
-------------
Minolta SR mount: 16 2,8; Sigma SuperWide 24 2,8; 28 2,5; 28 2,8; 28 3,5; 35 2,8; 45 2,0; 50 1,4; 50 1,7; 50 2,0; 58 1,4; 85 2,0; 100 2,5; 100 4 Macro; 135 3,5; 135 2,8; 200 4; RF 250 5,6; 24-35 3,5; 35-70 3,5; 75-150 4; 70-210 4
Canon FD mount: Tokina RMC 17 3,5; 28 2,8; 35 2,8; 50 1,8; 50 3,5 Macro; 55 1,2; 135 3,5; 135 2,5; 200 4,0; 300 5,6; 28-55 3,5 4,5; Tokina SZ-X SD 270; 70-150 4,5; 70-210 f4; 80-200 4L; Tokina SZ-X 845
Tamron Adaptall: 28-80 3,5-4,2 (27A); 70-210 3,8-4 (46A); 60-300 (23A); 90 2,5 (52B); 35-135 3,5-4,5 (40A)
Tamron SP: 20-40 2,7-3,5 (266D) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
aidaho
Joined: 29 Apr 2018 Posts: 456 Location: Ukraine
|
Posted: Sat May 23, 2020 5:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
aidaho wrote:
lumens pixel wrote: |
opened the lens and realised it was not haze but a kind of veil in a cemented group (the one in second position). After cleaning the surfaces of the cemented group the veil was still there and obviously at the junction level.
I managed to put the lens back together (happy I managed to do it).
I know I should live with it and take nice photos rather than try to solve a non problem but my nature is otherwise. |
I know, it is not the answer you are looking for, but it is still an answer nevertheless:
One of these Zuikos 50/1.4 has pretty significantly clouded doublet.
If not for the wide open torch sensor blasting controlled comparison, I wouldn't be able to tell.
I thought clear Zuiko will be more flare-resistant in real world shooting, but in practical application it is not.
Turns out flare resistance in general wasn't really a fault due to haze, it's just how it is with this optics.
In the end, I did put together a clean copy around better doublet, but if i knew beforehand, I would not bother. _________________ https://www.flickr.com/photos/curry-hexagon/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
lumens pixel
Joined: 27 Feb 2019 Posts: 834
Expire: 2021-06-25
|
Posted: Sun May 24, 2020 9:23 am Post subject: |
|
|
lumens pixel wrote:
Thanks Aidaho. This is good for the morale. Obviously I am also seeking relief for not having been able to spot the problem at time of purchase. But you are right I would have hoped to hear about a solution that would permit to restore the group to its original state. I suppose it's possible if it's Canada balsam but you can probably not cook again epoxy. _________________ Lumens Pixel
-------------
Minolta SR mount: 16 2,8; Sigma SuperWide 24 2,8; 28 2,5; 28 2,8; 28 3,5; 35 2,8; 45 2,0; 50 1,4; 50 1,7; 50 2,0; 58 1,4; 85 2,0; 100 2,5; 100 4 Macro; 135 3,5; 135 2,8; 200 4; RF 250 5,6; 24-35 3,5; 35-70 3,5; 75-150 4; 70-210 4
Canon FD mount: Tokina RMC 17 3,5; 28 2,8; 35 2,8; 50 1,8; 50 3,5 Macro; 55 1,2; 135 3,5; 135 2,5; 200 4,0; 300 5,6; 28-55 3,5 4,5; Tokina SZ-X SD 270; 70-150 4,5; 70-210 f4; 80-200 4L; Tokina SZ-X 845
Tamron Adaptall: 28-80 3,5-4,2 (27A); 70-210 3,8-4 (46A); 60-300 (23A); 90 2,5 (52B); 35-135 3,5-4,5 (40A)
Tamron SP: 20-40 2,7-3,5 (266D) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 3754 Location: Switzerland
|
Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2023 12:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
stevemark wrote:
lumens pixel wrote: |
...
I recently bought an excellent Tamron 52B and realised after a while a VERY slight haze behind the front group.
...
opened the lens and realised it was not haze but a kind of veil in a cemented group (the one in second position). After cleaning the surfaces of the cemented group the veil was still there and obviously at the junction level.
|
I had the same problem (slight haze behind the front group) - BUT after taking the lens apart it turned out that the haze was on the last (innermost) surface of the doublet (second element / third lens from the front). Cleaning the surface with two or three drops of a common dishwashing detergent the doublet was clear again. It seems a bit strange that a cemented surface would develop haze, given th fact that the cement (be it canada balm or an epoxy) would have to separate from the glass surface. That in itself would probably lead to much stronger veiling effects than "VERY slight haze". I suspect the haze on your lens simply was a bit reluctant to come off ...
S
PS re-inserting said doublet into its retainer was abit tricky since the tolerances between retainer and glass element obviously are pretty tight. _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
|
Back to top |
|
|
RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1268 Location: Kent, UK
|
Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2023 1:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
RokkorDoctor wrote:
stevemark wrote: |
lumens pixel wrote: |
...
I recently bought an excellent Tamron 52B and realised after a while a VERY slight haze behind the front group.
...
opened the lens and realised it was not haze but a kind of veil in a cemented group (the one in second position). After cleaning the surfaces of the cemented group the veil was still there and obviously at the junction level.
|
I had the same problem (slight haze behind the front group) - BUT after taking the lens apart it turned out that the haze was on the last (innermost) surface of the doublet (second element / third lens from the front). Cleaning the surface with two or three drops of a common dishwashing detergent the doublet was clear again. It seems a bit strange that a cemented surface would develop haze, given th fact that the cement (be it canada balm or an epoxy) would have to separate from the glass surface. That in itself would probably lead to much stronger veiling effects than "VERY slight haze". I suspect the haze on your lens simply was a bit reluctant to come off ...
S
PS re-inserting said doublet into its retainer was abit tricky since the tolerances between retainer and glass element obviously are pretty tight. |
Haze between two cemented elements does occur unfortunately.
I have a cemented doublet removed from a Bronica PS lens, which has haze between the two cemented elements. Impossible to tell whether one of the cemented glass surfaces has developed haze or whether it is the cement layer itself.
I am hoping the cement is the problem, then after separation & cleaning, re-cementing would be an option at least.
Failing the legal means of access to methylene-chloride here I have tried to soak the doublet in acetone for several months; no luck, the cemented elements won't separate.
Last option is to try Norland's recommended alternative separation method for UV-cured epoxy; a 45 minute bath in 200˚C / 400˚F mineral oil, but I have yet lacked the courage to try that (although I have nothing to lose; the lens is unusable in its current hazed state). _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|