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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27475
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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 Posted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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| dnas wrote: | Or what I was thinking about, was getting a lens with reasonably uniform fungus, and clean one half of the lens element with vinegar and leave the other half with fungus!!! Take photos. Then leave it in the bathroom lens caps on.
Then do the same with another lens, same, but with lens caps off.
Repeat same for a dry, bright location!!!!
Leave for a few months.
This way we KNOW the lenses have fungus, but we can see if it returns to the vinegar cleaned surfaces or not. And also if the moisture and light make any difference. |
Sound very good , try it please!
_________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
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FD101
Joined: 21 Mar 2009
Posts: 5
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| Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2009 12:17 am Post subject: Cleaning lenses of fungus |
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In my limited experience of cleaning lenses, the fungus is very easy to wipe off using 'Windex' glass cleaner followed by lots of deionised water and a final wipe with lighter fluid. However, depending on the lens coating some marks will remain. Pentax and Canon coatings are hard and resist fungal attack but Konica coatings, and I suspect Minolta too, are softer and more susceptible to fungal damage.
The best way to prevent re-infestation is to also clean the retainer and spacer rings holding the lens in place. Generally the fungus gets into the lens from external moisture and dirt.
I'm very skeptical of the 'Ponds Cold Creme' treatment! It is possible that oils present in the creme have a refractive index similar to the lens coating and merely disguise the etching marks left by the fungal attack.
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mikkokam
Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 27
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 5:54 pm Post subject: |
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I just received this Helios-40-2.
On the outer edges of the front element, there appears to be something that might be fungus. Otherwise the lens is excellent; diaphragm working nicely, lenses scratch-free, mechanically mint. Optically a good sample, test shots came out sharp (well, as sharp as you can get at 85 / 1.5).
Two questions for people with experience -
If I keep the lens in dry place and use it, could it be that the fungus does not grow?
What do you think - should I return the lens?
Such a shame, not that many around... 
_________________
Latest pictures: http://www.flickr.com/mikkokam
Lenses: Vivitar 17/3.5 • Vivitar Series 1 28/1.9 • Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35/2.4 • Yashinon DS-M 50/1.4 • Helios 44-3 MC 58/2 • Helios 44M-4 58/2 • Helios 40-2 85/1.5 • Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135/3.5 • Jupiter-37A 135/3.5 • DIY toy lenses 170/2.8 & 85/1.4 • DIY soft focus 50/1.8 • DIY tilt-shift lenses 75/3.5 & 75/4.5
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27475
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:52 pm Post subject: |
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KEEP IT! Fungus will never growing in if you keep it below 50% of humidity and lens get some light. Don't store with caps. If growing and impact picture quality perhaps 30 yrs later it will be easy to clean it.
_________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
http://www.hqdesign.eu/
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Olivier
Joined: 18 Feb 2009
Posts: 973
Location: France
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| Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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Attila,
would you advice to always store lenses without caps to avoid fungus ?
_________________
Olivier
DSLR : Canon EOS 40D - EOS 400D
SLR : Canon EOS 500N - ZENITH EM
M42 Lenses : Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35 - Aus Jena Tessar 2.8/50 - Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 1Q 4/135 - Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar T 4/13,5 * Fujinon 1.8/55 * Helios-40 1.5/85 - Helios 44M 2/58 * Industar-61 L/Z-MC 2.8/50 macro * Jupiter-9 2/85 - Jupiter-37A 3.5/135 - Jupiter-21M 4/200 * Meyer Optik Görlitz Trioplan 2.8/100 - Meyer Optik Görlitz Orestegor 4/200 * MIR-1B 2.8/37 * Pentacon 2.8/29 - Pentacon 1.8/50 - Pentacon 2.8/135 * Piesker Picon 2.8/135 * Prinzflex 2.8/135 - Prinzflex 3.5/200 * Soligor 2.8/35 - Soligor 2.8/135 - Soligor 3.5/200 - Soligor 4.5/250 - Soligor 6.3/400 * Steinheil München Quinar 2.8/135 * Tair-11A 2.8/135 - Tair-3 Grand Prix Brussels 1958 4.5/300 - Tair-3 4.5/300A * Super Takumar 1.8/55 * Tamron AD2 (03A) 3.8-4/80-210 - Tamron AD2 (01A) SP 2.8-3.8/35-80mm * Will. Wetzlar Vastar V 2.8/50 * Yashinon 4.5/70-230mm * Zenitar-M MC 2.8/16 Fisheye + Zenit Extension Tubes Set - extender TK-2M
Nikon Mount : Angenieux 2.5-3.3/35-70mm - Angenieux 3.5/70-210mm
P6 Mount : CZJ MC Sonnar 4/300 * Volna-3 2.8/80
PK Mount : MC Cosinon-W 2.8/28 * Tokina 2.8/35-70
EOS AF Lenses : Canon EF 1.8/50 II - EF 2.8/100 USM Macro - EFS 4-5.6/17-85 IS USM - EFS 3.5-5.6/18-55 - EFS 4.5-5.6/55-200 - EF 4/70-200 L IS USM * Sigma 4-5.6/70-300 DG Macro - Sigma 3.8-5.6/28-200 + Extender Kenko Pro 300 1.4x
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 139
Location: Japan
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| Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:17 pm Post subject: Re: Cleaning lenses of fungus |
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| FD101 wrote: | In my limited experience of cleaning lenses, the fungus is very easy to wipe off using 'Windex' glass cleaner followed by lots of deionised water and a final wipe with lighter fluid. However, depending on the lens coating some marks will remain. Pentax and Canon coatings are hard and resist fungal attack but Konica coatings, and I suspect Minolta too, are softer and more susceptible to fungal damage.
The best way to prevent re-infestation is to also clean the retainer and spacer rings holding the lens in place. Generally the fungus gets into the lens from external moisture and dirt.
I'm very skeptical of the 'Ponds Cold Creme' treatment! It is possible that oils present in the creme have a refractive index similar to the lens coating and merely disguise the etching marks left by the fungal attack. |
I've cleaned all sorts of different lenses, and I don't see much difference in "resistance to fungal attack". I do see differences in the distribution of the fungus though.
For example, Nikon & Olympus (and to a lesser extent Minolta MC/MD) lenses seem to be more likely to get some trendrils along with a large concentrated fungal point. In these cases, the concentrated fungal point will almost ALWAYS damage the Nikon coating and sometimes the glass. In the case of Olympus, it is often the case that concentrated fungal point can be removed without any coating damage. Minolta is in between.
Canon(FD), Minolta (MC/MD & AF), Pentax (M42 & K), Tokina often have a wide spread of very thin tendrils. Canon FD seems to be quite resistant to coat damage, but these often have MANY tendrils, and are often difficult to dismantle. Pentax suffers a little coating damage, which often produces a slight reflective discoloration, as does Tokina. Minolta is similar in this respect, but the later series of Minolta MD lenses and most of the Minolta AF lenses have sealed lens groups which often get fungus between them. These are impossible to clean.
I cannot recall getting a Konica len with Fungus. However, it's very common for Konica zoom lenses to get thick haze in some of the rear elements, which is often impossible to remove. This is also a common problem with Sigma 70-300m zooms. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27475
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Tue Nov 17, 2009 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Olivier wrote: | Attila,
would you advice to always store lenses without caps to avoid fungus ? |
yes. light biggest enemy to fungus, cheap UV filter can protect front lens from dust. rare is harder part. I keep my lenses in big plastic boxes light can come throw on them it's protect them from dusts. Also I put humidity remover chemical to inside so I keep them always below 50% mostly around 40 % of humidity. I have a dedicated box for lenses with fungus, oldest one in box 3-4 yrs old none of them have stronger fungus now. even if some fungus farm also there.
_________________
Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
Please visit my Ebay shop
and my company site
http://www.hqdesign.eu/
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mikkokam
Joined: 11 Aug 2009
Posts: 27
Location: Finland
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| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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Attila: great idea about the transparent boxes!
Currently, I have all my lenses in an aluminium suitcase - maybe I should invest in a transparent box for them and leave them where the sun shines in? The wife won't probably like that idea - have to find a place that is not so visible in everyday life.
The humidity in our house now (heating is on) is below 25% according to a cheap meter...
Filters: I read somewhere that UV-light could help keep the fungus away - so maybe one should use a non-UV-filter in front of such a lens?
Caps: it would be great to have TRANSPARENT caps. This could be an innovation to manufacture in China and sell at ebay... 
_________________
Latest pictures: http://www.flickr.com/mikkokam
Lenses: Vivitar 17/3.5 • Vivitar Series 1 28/1.9 • Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35/2.4 • Yashinon DS-M 50/1.4 • Helios 44-3 MC 58/2 • Helios 44M-4 58/2 • Helios 40-2 85/1.5 • Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135/3.5 • Jupiter-37A 135/3.5 • DIY toy lenses 170/2.8 & 85/1.4 • DIY soft focus 50/1.8 • DIY tilt-shift lenses 75/3.5 & 75/4.5
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siriusdogstar
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 419
Location: 40 kilometers to town
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| Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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I like the clear box idea and really really like the clear lens caps idea! 
Careful box in sunlight does not overheat inside.
Careful clear lens caps does not allow focus sunlight through lens to light house or woods on fire.
With colder more humid days here now I am thinking how important to protect camera items from humidity before bringing indoors; thinking when moisture from air condense inside cold lens it is a lot and that condensed moisture has much more difficult evaporation path to navigate out, meanwhile once warm it activates fungi spores to grow some before it does eventually evaporate. I can easily imagine a lens continually brought inside from the cold without protection would fungus even though stored in drybox, because of trapped moisture.
I put camera & lens in plastic baggie outside, then bring inside and wait an hour until camera & lens are room temperature before opening. If I am sometime inside air conditioning cool I hope to remember to bag my stuff before go into hot outdoors.
"Bag & Seal Before Cold Into Warm!" may be most important fungus prevention advise, no? 
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