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ellepi
Joined: 07 Aug 2010
Posts: 486
Location: Treviso - Italia
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 Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 11:57 am Post subject: super takumar 55/1.8 locked on zenit E |
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ellepi wrote:
When I screwed the lens on the zenith, it crashed at some point in the race.
Now is blocked by the aperture scale downwards.
On the same camera I mounted the Super Tak 105/2.8 without problems.
What do I do? 
_________________
M42 | Super Takumar 20/4, 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 55/1.8, 105/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4 - Tair-11A - Helios-44M - Mir-1B
K | Pentax M40/2.8, K 55/2, A 50/1.7, M 50/1.7, M 135/3.5 - Jupiter 37-AM
Micro nikkor 60/2.8
Mamiya 645 | Sekor 24/4, 55/2.8, 80/2.8, 210/4 |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008
Posts: 5883
Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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| Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
One possibilty - put the shutter on Bulb and keep it open, and try freeing up from the back, gently.
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-Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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ellepi
Joined: 07 Aug 2010
Posts: 486
Location: Treviso - Italia
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| Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:26 pm Post subject: |
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ellepi wrote:
I put the shutter on Bulb and I see nothing worng for lens.
But now shutter is blocked too....ARGHHHHHHHHHH 
_________________
M42 | Super Takumar 20/4, 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 55/1.8, 105/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4 - Tair-11A - Helios-44M - Mir-1B
K | Pentax M40/2.8, K 55/2, A 50/1.7, M 50/1.7, M 135/3.5 - Jupiter 37-AM
Micro nikkor 60/2.8
Mamiya 645 | Sekor 24/4, 55/2.8, 80/2.8, 210/4 |
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008
Posts: 5883
Location: NJ, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
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| Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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Nesster wrote:
I was hoping you might see if the aperture pin was catching on someting... Ouch, sorry about the shutter.
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-Jussi
Camera photos
Print Photographica
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ManualFocus-G
Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 6624
Location: United Kingdom
Expire: 2014-11-24
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| Posted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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ManualFocus-G wrote:
Bad news  I think we are going to need a photo.
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Graham - Moderator 
Shooter of choice: Fujifilm X-T20 with M42, PB and C/Y lenses
See my Flickr photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/manualfocus-g |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 5028
Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:28 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Is there manual-auto switch locking pin in it? Is the swicth on auto?
_________________
MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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ellepi
Joined: 07 Aug 2010
Posts: 486
Location: Treviso - Italia
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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ellepi wrote:
| kansalliskala wrote: |
| Is there manual-auto switch locking pin in it? Is the swicth on auto? |
Unfortunately yes
_________________
M42 | Super Takumar 20/4, 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 55/1.8, 105/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4 - Tair-11A - Helios-44M - Mir-1B
K | Pentax M40/2.8, K 55/2, A 50/1.7, M 50/1.7, M 135/3.5 - Jupiter 37-AM
Micro nikkor 60/2.8
Mamiya 645 | Sekor 24/4, 55/2.8, 80/2.8, 210/4 |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10540
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Try working a thin 'feeler gauge' (for setting engine valve clearance) between lens and body. Find the pin & try to move pin into the lens. With patience and good luck you should be successful! The alternative is disassembly, of either the lens or camera or both, to get at the obstruction.
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2190
Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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| Posted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
I'm confused as to what is actually stuck...Is it the pin that actuates the aperture blades or the very little pin that locks the m/a switch? I thought the latter were only on the S-M-C and SMC tak line...
Well I'll share my experience with a locked on 1.4/50 S-M-C There are only two ways to get it off:
1.) Completely disassemble the lens from the front end until you can get to the little pin actuator on the underside of the mount.
I can already imagine the responses for saying the next one... 
2.) Find the hole in the camera mount that has the pin stuck in it (there are 4), and take a metal hacksaw to the mount keeping the thin blade braced against the body of the camera. With some persistent and careful sawing, the screw hole will open up and you can press the lens pin in and unscrew the lens. This will obviously destroy the mount and scratch up the body but if you've done it properly the lens will remain undamaged. I can send you a new mount free of charge if you choose this method. But I don't take responsibility for any inadvertent damage.
The gauge idea was unfortunately out of the question for me. I could hardly get a piece of typical copy paper between the lens and camera mounts. |
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ellepi
Joined: 07 Aug 2010
Posts: 486
Location: Treviso - Italia
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| Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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ellepi wrote:
Problem solved:
the mini pin of man/auto switch was blocked into a x-cut of one screw of mount.
I put between camera and lens (near the pin blocked) a thin blade, I pull upware the lens.....et voilà! 
The only problem now is the shutter of zenit that is blocked on close position.
_________________
M42 | Super Takumar 20/4, 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 55/1.8, 105/2.8, 135/3.5, 200/4 - Tair-11A - Helios-44M - Mir-1B
K | Pentax M40/2.8, K 55/2, A 50/1.7, M 50/1.7, M 135/3.5 - Jupiter 37-AM
Micro nikkor 60/2.8
Mamiya 645 | Sekor 24/4, 55/2.8, 80/2.8, 210/4 |
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themoleman342
Joined: 21 Oct 2007
Posts: 2190
Location: East Coast (CT), U.S.A.
Expire: 2013-01-24
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| Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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themoleman342 wrote:
| Quote: |
| I put between camera and lens (near the pin blocked) a thin blade, I pull upware the lens |
Congrats! You must have had a lot more space between the bottom of lens and mount than I did! |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10540
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Sun Sep 05, 2010 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
At risk of further damage maybe try 'B' position and work shutter button, or perhaps work shutter with remote trip attached? I am thinking shutter button is stuck in down position, can maybe pull up with remote trip.
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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