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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 12528
Location: West Emilia
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 Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:20 pm Post subject: |
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| peterqd wrote: | | Attila wrote: | | if air is dry enough don't need any moving air. |
Orio, dealing with humidity, dampness and condensation problems in buildings is a part of my job. I agree with Attila, up to a point. Fungus will not germinate without dampness (and sometimes it needs darkness too). Moving air is not vital as long as the air is always dry, but keeping it dry is not easy. Humans create moisture just by breathing. The reason people recommend good ventilation is that it's often the best way to get rid of moist air.
But there's another factor - temperature. Cool air cannot hold as much water vapour as warm air, so when warm and humid air becomes cooler it has to dump the water vapour somewhere, and this happens on the coldest surfaces first. This is why in winter you get condensation on cold windows. Try to keep all your equipment at normal room temperature. If you store anything near a cold wall or window there is a danger it could become colder than the air in the room and so attract moisture. The really dangerous time is when you bring a lens (or camera!) back into a warm humid room after being outside in cold weather. It will become covered in condensation, both inside and out. It needs to equalise temperature in a well ventilated place, so NOT in the camera bag! |
Thank you Peter. Very useful info!
What about the food? In an article about lens fungus, I read that probably most if not all of our lenses are already infested with some spores, but they don't germinate because they don't have the conditions, which is surely humidity, darkness, but also, enough food. They can eat the excess cement glue that attaches lenses to barrels for instance (and this is the reason why they often grow on the edges), but if the lens is manufactured properly, they may not find enough food. In that article they wrote that the dust is one of main food for the fungus.
So this is why I hesitate to leave lenses uncapped in an open place. I have just done it now, as I was afraid about the darkness induced by the caps.
But without caps, the dust will fall on the lenses and also in the little spaces between lenses and barrel, where fungus mostly grows.
So my question is: provided that the lenses are stored in an ambient that is kept dry, illuminated, and warm, what is better? To leave the lens capped, and therefore blocking the light (on the glass, not on the barrel), but keeping also dust away from the glass, or, to leave the lenses uncapped, and therefore allow the light inside the lens, but at the same time, allowing dust to fall on the glasses???
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
Read list of equipment HERE
   
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 16006
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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50 % humidity is too much store lenses, fungus start growing super fast if humidity reach 60%. I suggest to keep bigger distance. Most important factor is dry air, I bought many lenses from photographers. I found lenses with fungus only if owner has family house and stored with caps in leather case. If owner stored lens in flat part of communist style large block house (air is very dry here around 20-30% ) also stored with caps in leather case, lenses were always clean no fungus at all. So believe me if you can keep them on dry place you never get fungus even if you stored in leather case with caps. Another important thing don't left finger print or other dirt on lenses. To growing fungus need to essential thing right environment and food. Finger print enough for fungus. Clean lenses first with 50% ammonia + 50% Hydrogen-peroxide mixture , this liquid kill all living creature. In second step use 100% alcohol, finally clean with microfibre cleaning clothes. This receipt 100% safe for lens and 100% avoid to left any food for fungus and kill fungus itself perfectly.
_________________
Olympus E-1,Bessa L,Bessa RF,Olympus OM2n,Nikon FA,Yashica Eletro 35 GN,
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon: 3.5/20mm,2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,1.2/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/105mm,2.5/105mm,4/200mm macro,4.5/300mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,1.4/50mm,3.5/55mm macro,2.8/135mm,2/90mm macro,35-70mm,60-250mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro Elmar,2.8/90 Elmarit last version
Please visit my Ebay shop to support my reviews !
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 16006
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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Orio, if you store in box, you don't get dust. Anyway in dry place dust no problem I bought many lenses in really dirty condition without fungus and I saw many mint lenses with fungus.
_________________
Olympus E-1,Bessa L,Bessa RF,Olympus OM2n,Nikon FA,Yashica Eletro 35 GN,
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon: 3.5/20mm,2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,1.2/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/105mm,2.5/105mm,4/200mm macro,4.5/300mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,1.4/50mm,3.5/55mm macro,2.8/135mm,2/90mm macro,35-70mm,60-250mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro Elmar,2.8/90 Elmarit last version
Please visit my Ebay shop to support my reviews !
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 12528
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | | Orio, if you store in box, you don't get dust. Anyway in dry place dust no problem I bought many lenses in really dirty condition without fungus and I saw many mint lenses with fungus. |
In fact the Distagon I got two weeks ago was new and boxed, and with fungus.
But still I'd like to know more about that "food" thing.
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
Read list of equipment HERE
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 16006
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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Test your self put a lens to closed and humid box with finger prints if humidity over 60% fungus will start growing within a week. First phase like oily spots.
Put one into dry box with same condition. You never get fungus even if put a full pizza for food 
_________________
Olympus E-1,Bessa L,Bessa RF,Olympus OM2n,Nikon FA,Yashica Eletro 35 GN,
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon: 3.5/20mm,2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,1.2/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/105mm,2.5/105mm,4/200mm macro,4.5/300mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,1.4/50mm,3.5/55mm macro,2.8/135mm,2/90mm macro,35-70mm,60-250mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro Elmar,2.8/90 Elmarit last version
Please visit my Ebay shop to support my reviews !
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 12528
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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I have set up the second shelf similarly to Carsten, but with the back cap off also.
I turned the lenses towards the window, except for the top row because the base is too narrow:
http://www.imageshock.eu/img/lenscoll2.jpg
As you can see I started to put white sheets of paper in order to reflect daylight back into the rear of the lens. I have realized, however, that it will be simpler and better to just paint the whole thing white - which I will do this summer.
I don't know - the lenses look really defenceless this way... but if it's for the best...
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
Read list of equipment HERE
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 16006
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Very good idea, what about aluminium foil as reflection sheet instead of white paper. Put a humidity meter on the self and if humidity growing up open the window to decrease that.
_________________
Olympus E-1,Bessa L,Bessa RF,Olympus OM2n,Nikon FA,Yashica Eletro 35 GN,
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon: 3.5/20mm,2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,1.2/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/105mm,2.5/105mm,4/200mm macro,4.5/300mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,1.4/50mm,3.5/55mm macro,2.8/135mm,2/90mm macro,35-70mm,60-250mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro Elmar,2.8/90 Elmarit last version
Please visit my Ebay shop to support my reviews !
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 2651
Location: High Wycombe, UK
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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| LucisPictor wrote: | Thanks, Peter!
Very useful information!
Perhaps you can answer a question I have been thinking about for quite a while.
If you have a humidity of 50% in a 25°C warm room, does that mean that there is effectively more water than in a room with 18°C and 50% humidity?
If yes, is it "better" (e.g. for lenses) to be stored in the second room? |
OK. This is a complicated question. When you say "humidity" I assume you mean Relative Humidity (RH). This is what they use in weather forecasts etc. RH is measured as the percentage of the amount of vapour present when the air is "saturated" at a given temperature.
In terms of the actual quantity of vapour in the room (the Specific Humidity), the warm room has a higher value than the cold room. However, because the temperature is higher, the RH in both rooms is equal. If the SH was the same in each room then the warm room would have a lower RH.
So if you were to allow the warm room to cool down from 25° to 18°C, the RH would rise. I can't tell you by how much % now, but it can be calculated. If you were to continue cooling until the RH reaches 100% this is known as the "dew-point" and the vapour in the air would start to condense into water droplets and become steamy or foggy.
In reality there will be surfaces in the room that are colder than the ambient air temperature. This depends upon the rate of heat transfer through walls/ceilings/floors etc. So the dew-point of the cooler air in contact with the cooler surfaces would be reached earlier than the general air in the room and condensation would begin to form on the coldest surfaces first.
If you can guarantee to keep the RH in both rooms constant at 50% then there is no difference for storing lenses - both would go mouldy at the same rate! :  (not really - I'm joking) But the lens in the warmer room is at greater risk should the temperature drop. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 12528
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | | Very good idea, what about aluminium foil as reflection sheet instead of white paper. |
I think white is better for our purpose because it creates a spread diffusion, softer, but reaching all angles. Aluminium has anisotropic reflection and if the light rays don't hit at the right angle the reflection is lost.
| Attila wrote: | | Put a humidity meter on the self and if humidity growing up open the window to decrease that. |
Yes I need to buy an instrument like yours. At least one, maybe two.
Lenses are in my studio which is the brighter room in the apartment. Apartments here are not built with large windows like in the north of Europe, because here we need to keep room darker during hot summers.
In any case I have an air conditioner in the room which can also work as a dehumidifier, so in case of dramatic levels I can turn it on.
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
Read list of equipment HERE
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 2651
Location: High Wycombe, UK
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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| Orio wrote: | Thank you Peter. Very useful info!
What about the food? In an article about lens fungus, I read that probably most if not all of our lenses are already infested with some spores, but they don't germinate because they don't have the conditions, which is surely humidity, darkness, but also, enough food. They can eat the excess cement glue that attaches lenses to barrels for instance (and this is the reason why they often grow on the edges), but if the lens is manufactured properly, they may not find enough food. In that article they wrote that the dust is one of main food for the fungus.
So this is why I hesitate to leave lenses uncapped in an open place. I have just done it now, as I was afraid about the darkness induced by the caps.
But without caps, the dust will fall on the lenses and also in the little spaces between lenses and barrel, where fungus mostly grows.
So my question is: provided that the lenses are stored in an ambient that is kept dry, illuminated, and warm, what is better? To leave the lens capped, and therefore blocking the light (on the glass, not on the barrel), but keeping also dust away from the glass, or, to leave the lenses uncapped, and therefore allow the light inside the lens, but at the same time, allowing dust to fall on the glasses??? |
Looks like you've got this organised Orio. I know nothing about the kind of fungus that affects lenses - I only know a bit about the different rots that affect timber. But the principle is the same - they all need moisture and food. In the case of Serpula Lacrymans (Dry Rot), this also requires still air and darkness. However, once established, this fungus can survive daylight and fresh air, and it will srvive without moisture as it can manufacture its own from the air - hence its name. It can even go dormant and recover after many years - very nasty stuff.
I think as far as lens fungus is concerned, a dry atmosphere is probably the most important thing, as you can't remove the food. Fungus spores are sub-microscopic and are all around us in the air all the time so keeping the caps on won't be effective at all, and you may as well let the light in. This has other benefits too - particularly with lenses containing Thorium etc. In other words I think you're doing exactly the right thing - just remember about the condensation.
PS If you're worried about dust, it might be worth covering the lenses with a "breathable membrane" that also allows light through. I'm sure you can find something that fits that description!  |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7755
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks a lot, Peter!
Excellently explained, very understandable.
I guess, I'll keep it as it is and just watch the humidity and if necessary use the dehumidifier.
I do not have a chance to store the lenses in the second floor where we have a RH of about 35%. The children's rooms are there and our bedroom. My wife would kill me, if I stored the lenses there!
Another idea would be to put them into my glass cabinet and put also a chemical dehumidifier in there...
Well, actually, I do not have extremely expensive lenses anyway...
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS 50e, EOS 500, Spotmatic SPII, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;3.5/135;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: CZJ Flek 4/20; Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; MIR38 3.5/65; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7755
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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@Orio:
Wow! This collection looks really impressive!
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS 50e, EOS 500, Spotmatic SPII, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;3.5/135;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: CZJ Flek 4/20; Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; MIR38 3.5/65; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 12528
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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| LucisPictor wrote: | @Orio:
Wow! This collection looks really impressive! |
Thanks Carsten! But also in my case, the visual impact is higher than the actual content. There are some expensive lenses, yes, but the mass is created by seven of Jupiter-37s and Jupiter-11, six Helios-44s, and other cheap ones, all of these bought with 5 to 15-20 euros each, when not even donated together with a camera.
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
Read list of equipment HERE
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hacksawbob
Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 1061
Location: LANCS UK
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| Posted: Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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| I gave some thought to this a while ago the "in my dreams" solution was to have a sealed cabinet with a dehumidifier Click here to see on Ebay built in. The walls would be insulated foil backed bubble wrap there would be glass shelves and running above each would be UV light, not the cheapo ones but the ones that are used for water treatment Click here to see on Ebay. These would be on a fridge type switch so they turn off when you open the doors so you dont get irradiated by the UV. Possibly a Filtered air supply via a fan on a timer switch 12V computer type to exchange the air say every 12 hours. I guess you wouldn't get much change from ?700-1000. I would store the lenses without caps standing front element down. Like I say in my dreams. |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7755
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | | Test your self put a lens to closed and humid box with finger prints if humidity over 60% fungus will start growing within a week. First phase like oily spots. |
Really? I remember that I used to store some of my lenses (when I started to collect) in a cellar room with an average humidity of about 70% and nothing has happened. No fungus threads, no oily spots, nothing.
But there were no fingerprints, so maybe no "food"...
Perhaps the hygrometer was broken.
Here are some links about fungus:
http://www.chem.helsinki.fi/~toomas/photo/fungus/
http://herron.50megs.com/fungus.htm
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-11243_7-6230007-1.html
http://help.cnet.com/Digital_cameras/9602-12576_39-0.html?messageID=2508270&kw=Digital+cameras&nodeId=6501
Carsten
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS 50e, EOS 500, Spotmatic SPII, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;3.5/135;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: CZJ Flek 4/20; Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; MIR38 3.5/65; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 |
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