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rpo83
 Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 1:54 pm Post subject: Some success finally with the SMC 50/1.4 |
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rpo83 wrote:
I have battled with this lens for a while.
It focus' past infinity on my camera, and what is in focus in the viewfinder, is not in the images. It back-focuses by a considerable margin.
This was taken close to wide open, sorry i didn't take notes! Either 1.4, 2 or 2.8.
There was a considerable yellow cast to images that was corrected in lightroom
 _________________ Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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Scheimpflug
 Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1895 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
If the focus differs between your viewfinder and sensor, isn't that an indication of a miscalibrated focusing screen? _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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poilu
 Joined: 26 Aug 2007 Posts: 10576 Location: Greece
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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poilu wrote:
beautiful smooth whites roses! _________________ T* |
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Jieffe
 Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
If you have the original (AF) focusing screen, that problem is common. It's not really back-focusing, just the screen unable to cope with a lens more open than f2.8.
Your lens would benefit of a good UV bath to de-yellow the back element. Mine regained an half-stop after the "operation". |
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rpo83
 Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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rpo83 wrote:
| Scheimpflug wrote: |
| If the focus differs between your viewfinder and sensor, isn't that an indication of a miscalibrated focusing screen? |
I would have thought that, but other lenses have nowhere near the same issues.
| poilu wrote: |
| beautiful smooth whites roses! |
Thanks poilu.
| Jieffe wrote: |
If you have the original (AF) focusing screen, that problem is common. It's not really back-focusing, just the screen unable to cope with a lens more open than f2.8.
Your lens would benefit of a good UV bath to de-yellow the back element. Mine regained an half-stop after the "operation". |
Great information Jieffe, i did not know about this! I will try focusing at 2.8, then open back up
I had planned on leaving the lens in direct sunlight, then had second thoughts about the heat causing other issues. Can you tell me more about UV baths? _________________ Cheers
Steve
Sigma SD10, Sigma SD14, Sigma SD14R, Sigma DP1s
Leica Lenses
Elmarit R 1:2.8/16mm, Elmarit R 1:2.8/28mm, Macro Elmarit R 1:2.8/60mm, Macro Elmar R 1:4/100 Bellows, APO Telyt R 1:3.4/180mm, Telyt R 1 :4/250mm, Vario Elmar R 1:4/35-70mm ROM, Vario Elmar R 1:4.5/75-200 Novoflex... Noflexar 1:38/200mm
M42... Carl Zeiss... Pancolar 1:1.8/80, Asahi Pentax... Super Takumar 1:3.5/35mm, S-M-C Takumar 1:1.4/50mm, Jupiter... 1:2/85mm, Pentacon... 1:2.8/135mm MC,
My Flickr Page
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rpo83/
High Res gallery on dpreview, click original
http://www.dpreview.com/Galleries/7079430607/photos |
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Jieffe
 Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 754 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Thu May 20, 2010 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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Jieffe wrote:
| rpo83 wrote: |
[Great information Jieffe, i did not know about this! I will try focusing at 2.8, then open back up  |
I invested in an Ebay split-focus screen and never regretted it. Works fine at full aperture. For my other DSLR, I bought a broken Minolta SRT and cut the screen. Works fine too.
| Quote: |
| I had planned on leaving the lens in direct sunlight, then had second thoughts about the heat causing other issues. Can you tell me more about UV baths? |
Some members here used uv lamps to de-yellow their lens. I simply disassembled the rear lens and let it on a window sill for a few weeks.
This way, no risk of overheating the helicoid grease and faster results (as the light doesn't have to travel through several layers of glass before reaching the yellowed element). |
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