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mareinke
Joined: 14 Nov 2013 Posts: 33 Location: LA, CA
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Posted: Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:01 pm Post subject: Soaking aperture blades into soap water (rust) |
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mareinke wrote:
While running a clean project for my Pentacon MC 50mm F1.8, I put aperture blades in the dish soap too long, they have obvious rust stains; I tried lighter fluid, yes, the stains were removed successfully, but what was even worser, more surface scratches appeared , if that means I will have to run a polish project? don't launch.
I have steel wool(finest), lighter fluid, WD-40 and Brasso Multi-Purpose Metal Polish
Your suggestion is appreciated.
Marco
Last edited by mareinke on Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:29 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
I would suggest dissolving rust in vinegar or CLR and then sealing the blades with rust converter. Also, if you are using soap and water to clean the blades you should work quickly, with no soaking. In, out, rinse, wipe, heat. |
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Sciolist
Joined: 29 Mar 2017 Posts: 1445 Location: Scotland
Expire: 2021-04-16
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 4:53 pm Post subject: Re: polish aperture blades of pentacon MC 50mm F1.8? |
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Sciolist wrote:
mareinke wrote: |
While running a clean project for my Pentacon MC 50mm F1.8, I put aperture blades in the dish soap too long, they have obvious rust stains;
Marco |
You likely know this Marco, but I hope you don't mind me mentioning it for others. Dish washing soap (if that's what it was) usually includes salt, used as an abrasive. If anyone is obliged to use it, I'd recommend rinsing and drying straight away.
Thanks. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10530 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
I'd use a fine bristle brass wire brush maybe dipped into vinegar. If vinegar is used be sure to rinse with water & dry thoroughly. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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mareinke
Joined: 14 Nov 2013 Posts: 33 Location: LA, CA
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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mareinke wrote:
Hi Gardener,
Thank you for the great suggestions.
It currently looks like
It's a lot of fun to practise my first LENS project.
I will try Rust Converter after the surface cleaning is completely done.
Thanks again.
Marco
Gardener wrote: |
I would suggest dissolving rust in vinegar or CLR and then sealing the blades with rust converter. Also, if you are using soap and water to clean the blades you should work quickly, with no soaking. In, out, rinse, wipe, heat. |
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mareinke
Joined: 14 Nov 2013 Posts: 33 Location: LA, CA
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:33 pm Post subject: Re: polish aperture blades of pentacon MC 50mm F1.8? |
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mareinke wrote:
Hi Sciolist,
'Mentioning the potential risk for others' is great, I will rename the topic after the issue is resolved.
Sciolist wrote: |
You likely know this Marco, but I hope you don't mind me mentioning it for others. Dish washing soap (if that's what it was) usually includes salt, used as an abrasive. If anyone is obliged to use it, I'd recommend rinsing and drying straight away.
Thanks. |
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mareinke
Joined: 14 Nov 2013 Posts: 33 Location: LA, CA
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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mareinke wrote:
Hi visualopsins,
Thank you for sharing the experience, I'll try below steps:
1. soak into vinegar
2. rinse with water
3. wipe
4. heat
will update the result later.
Marco
visualopsins wrote: |
I'd use a fine bristle brass wire brush maybe dipped into vinegar. If vinegar is used be sure to rinse with water & dry thoroughly. |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
Don't soak, dip in vinegar, clean with brush, rinse, until the rust is gone. If you let it is in aqueous solution for too long you'll only get more rust. |
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mareinke
Joined: 14 Nov 2013 Posts: 33 Location: LA, CA
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2018 9:27 pm Post subject: |
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mareinke wrote:
Hi Gardener,
Thank you so much for saving me from another accident, I really need to plan everything.
1. dip in vinegar and clean with brush
2. rinse with water
3. wipe
4. heat
5. apply rust converter
Have a nice day!
Marco
Gardener wrote: |
Don't soak, dip in vinegar, clean with brush, rinse, until the rust is gone. If you let it is in aqueous solution for too long you'll only get more rust. |
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mareinke
Joined: 14 Nov 2013 Posts: 33 Location: LA, CA
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Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:21 am Post subject: |
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mareinke wrote:
I end up replacing 2 aperture blades (from another for parts P50 1.8 LENS).
Here are the simple rules that do the trick.
Hold the blade with a tweezer, and use a Q-tip moistened with isopropyl alcohol 100%, and slightly wipe the blade in the same direction.
If the blade has stain or rust on it, dip in vinegar, clean with Q-tip, no soak, just clean and dry it, repeat the process until the stain is gone, finally rinse the blade with lighter fluid.
Marco |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10530 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 1:44 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Looks great! _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Seele
Joined: 17 Apr 2009 Posts: 741 Location: Sydney Australia
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Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:24 am Post subject: |
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Seele wrote:
Marco,
Glad you have the blades fixed. I only use alcohol to soak and clean blades.
Another point that's probably worth mentioning. Unlike some other lenses, Meyer/Pentacon automatic lens construction does not have much of a barrier between the iris mechanism and the focussing helicoid. In other words, if you do not thoroughly remove the old grease and put in new, stable grease, the lighter portion of the old grease can get distilled out and re-condenses all over the iris mechanism. I have worked on a few, and not too long afterwards the iris got oily and sticky again if I did not replace the grease. |
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