 |
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Posts: 288
Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
|
 Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 3:03 am Post subject: |
 |
|
| ludoo wrote: |
The 250 is beautiful, keep it as it is and use FP-3000B, you ar elucky it costs nothing in the US... For conversion get one of the lesser cameras, there's plenty on ebay. As for the Angenieux lens, they are quite common if you want I can look for one, but since you are in the US I'd look for a Kodak Anastigmat or Anastigmat Special on a 620 camera.
|
Thanks for the film tip! Yes, the Polaroids are more plentiful here, and I'm sure they're less expensive, too. But the 250 was a top model, and it has the Zeiss rangefinder, and many people search for them, and collect them. Same with the Kodak...there is an unbelievable amount of the lesser Kodak products; Brownies galore...but the quality Kodak is still sought after, and hoarded away in collectors closets. I'm always searching the used markets on weekends for Ektars.  I would love to trade for a Angenieux!!!If you find some let me know! Thanks 
Oh, and yes, I agree about the conversions. I wouldn't with a 250. The 100 (like the one you did) seems like a great candidate. But there are plenty of lesser quality Polaroids around.
_________________
Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 9315
Expire: 2014-01-07
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 3:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
The Polaroids are indeed harder to find in the UK, and the high quality ones are very hard to find, SX-70s and Super Wingers etc are fairly common. The higher class Kodak stuff is similarly hard to find, Retinettes are common but Retinas not, same with the folders, Anaston lenses are common, Anastars few and far between. The German made Kodaks usually have Anastigmats, ones with Xenars are not easy to find.
I would dearly love an old Polaroid with a 127mm Rodenstaock Ysarex so I can convert it to 120 and shoot 6x12 (well, 6x11-ish) in it.
I've also been keeping an eye out for a 616 Kodak, either a British one with Lumenised Anastar or a German one with a Xenar, but they are not common at all, whereas there are tons of 620s with Anastons.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org
Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Posts: 288
Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 5:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
| iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
I would dearly love an old Polaroid with a 127mm Rodenstaock Ysarex so I can convert it to 120 and shoot 6x12 (well, 6x11-ish) in it.
. |
The 110a is another premium model, and collectors hoard them. I do run across them, though. The prices that I've seen in the last year are in the $100-$125 range, which I consider pretty high. But I am aware of it, and keep my eye out for it.
Would a Model 800 or Model 160 work?
_________________
Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5
Last edited by aspen on Mon May 07, 2012 5:43 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Posts: 1400
Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 5:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
A Model 800 would work too, but you'd have to change the front standard to fit a manual lens. They are pretty cheap and might be worth a look.
Ian, there are quite a bit of UK made Kodak Anastigmats on the later 620 cameras on ebay, and they are going cheap. It should be the same optical design as my Angenieux, with different glass. They might be worth a look.
_________________
My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
altroformato
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 3509
Location: Finland, Kisko
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 7:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
| aspen wrote: | | Oh, and yes, I agree about the conversions. I wouldn't with a 250. The 100 (like the one you did) seems like a great candidate. But there are plenty of lesser quality Polaroids around. |
I wouldn't convert a working 100 because it's historical value. Correct me but isn't it the first electronic shutter camera?
Else I've made a total blunder of selling my 250 for peanuts and keeping the 100. 
_________________
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E
MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Contax 139Q;
Tokina RMC 28/2.8; Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2; Jupiter 9 85/2;
S-M-C 120/2.8; Jupiter 37A 135/3.5; Soligor 180/3.5; Exaktar 300/5.5
Art: Yashicaflex C; Киев 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100;
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor), The "Peace Camera |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Posts: 1400
Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 7:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yup you made a total blunder.  There were about 1.2 million 100 produced, and while it certainly has historical significance, it does not mean the camera is worth more than a 250, there are just too many of them around. The 250 is the same camera except for the Zeiss viewfinder, which alone is worth more than a 100...
_________________
My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
altroformato
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 3509
Location: Finland, Kisko
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
Well, I could have kept them both but that wouldn't been in line with my degrowth-ideology.
_________________
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E
MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Contax 139Q;
Tokina RMC 28/2.8; Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2; Jupiter 9 85/2;
S-M-C 120/2.8; Jupiter 37A 135/3.5; Soligor 180/3.5; Exaktar 300/5.5
Art: Yashicaflex C; Киев 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100;
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor), The "Peace Camera |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Posts: 1400
Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
| kansalliskala wrote: | | Well, I could have kept them both but that wouldn't been in line with my degrowth-ideology. |
Then be happy with your 100.
I completely agree with your ideology, I liquidated all my manual lenses except a couple that are too battered to sell decently, sold all the digital gear except a compact. I still have a closet full of fixed lens rangefinders and Polaroids, but I plan on shooting them. Well, I also just bought a Ricoh Wide 35 rf, but they are very rare and the price was excellent... Oh, and a Scan Dual II (after selling mine last year) to scan film...
Anyway, I think many on photo forums -- and this one is no exception -- are obsessed with gear, having complete "kits", the best lenses, etc. I found out I could not care less, I only want few cameras I love, and which fit in my hand, to take pictures instead of worshipping them.
_________________
My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
altroformato
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 9315
Expire: 2014-01-07
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| ludoo wrote: | A Model 800 would work too, but you'd have to change the front standard to fit a manual lens. They are pretty cheap and might be worth a look.
Ian, there are quite a bit of UK made Kodak Anastigmats on the later 620 cameras on ebay, and they are going cheap. It should be the same optical design as my Angenieux, with different glass. They might be worth a look. |
I'll have to keep my eye open for an old rollfilm Polaroid, which models are most promising for conversion?
I mostly see Anastons on the UK made Kodak folders, those are triplets I think, the Anastar is a Tessar.
I'd love to put a Tominon in Copal or a Angulon in Compur on one of the old Polaroids, but it's a project that will have to wait until I have some funds to play with  .
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org
Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Posts: 1400
Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 12:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ian, look for anastigmat 100/4.5 or 105/4.5, they are tessar types. The 100/6.3 is a triplet. Do general searches for kodak folders using different keywords. Here are a few I got in half a minute: 180871518838 370610745811 110781428400 180876653837 310397560988 180871520278.
_________________
My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
altroformato
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 9315
Expire: 2014-01-07
|
| Posted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Cheers Ludoo, that's great info.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org
Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
aspen
Joined: 15 Dec 2010
Posts: 288
Location: Maryland, USA
Expire: 2014-02-20
|
| Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 2:40 am Post subject: |
|
|
| ludoo wrote: | | Yup you made a total blunder. There were about 1.2 million 100 produced, and while it certainly has historical significance, it does not mean the camera is worth more than a 250, there are just too many of them around. The 250 is the same camera except for the Zeiss viewfinder, which alone is worth more than a 100... |
+1
_________________
Cameras; Sony Nex5n Lenses; Konica Hexanons; 21mm f2.8, 40mm f1,8, 50mm f1.4, 50mmf1.7,57mm f1.4, 100mm f2.8, 135mm f3.2, 200mm f4, MC Helios 77M-4 50mm f1.8, Jupiter 8 50 f2, Super Takumar 85mm f1.9, Vivitar Series 1 90mm f2.5 (Macro), Steinheil Munchen Culminar 85mm f2.8, Steinheil Munchen Exagon 35mm f2.8, Jupiter 37A 135mm, Astra Berlin 135mm f3.5, Angenieux 180mm f4 , Tair 3-PhS 300mm f4.5 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008
Posts: 4326
Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2015-05-17
|
| Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 3:16 am Post subject: |
|
|
A couple of very common models good for rollfilm conversion -
Model 150
Model 800
They are very similar to the 110 series models, except with cheaper lenses/shutters.
These are the roll film models, so it would take fairly complex conversion to make them take pack film. Some people convert these to very interesting (and expensive) 4x5 rangefinders.
120 rollfilm conversion would be much simpler.
Both have rangefinders and decent f/8 triplet lenses. If you can find a good 127mm lens in shutter they shouldn't be too hard to convert.
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011
Posts: 9315
Expire: 2014-01-07
|
| Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 12:06 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Cheers Luis. All the earlier rollfilm Polaroids are hard to find in the UK, so I'm leaning more towards converting a 116 or 616 camera to take 120. I just fancy the idea of making a 6x12 transparency of some of the beautiful landscapes here.
_________________
'The question I would really consider (especially if an amateur and on a budget) is whether or not anyone (including yourself, of course) can tell the difference in any situation for which you will use the lens...and if they can, why are they burying their noses in your prints hard enough to tell the difference instead of responding to the prints emotionally and thinking about what they might mean?' - 2F/2F on apug.org
Digital: Sony NEX-3, Samsung NX100, Canon EOS 450d
35mm SLR: Konica FT-1, Konica FC-1, Konica Autoreflex T, Carena SRH760, Exakta RTL1000, Canon EOS 10qd
35mm VF: Olympus Stylus, Konica C35, Konica A4, Konica MG, Konica MT-9, Ricoh FF-9, Ricoh AF-80
35mm RF: Zorki 6, Kiev II, Kiev IV, Contax IIIa, CZJ Werra III,
Medium format: Franka Rolfix, Mess Ikonta 524/16, Voigtlander Bessa with Skopar 3.5/105, Voigtlander Bessa with Voigtar 3.5/105, Kiev 6C, Century Graphic 23, Ensign Selfix 820, Kershaw 450
MF lenses: Schneider Angulon 6.5/68, Componon-S 5.6/100, C-Claron 4.5/135, Xenar 3.5/105, Mamiya C 2.8/45, Mamiya 2.8/80, CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Biometar 2.8/80, Zodiac 3.5/30, Tominon 4.5/135, Pullin Pulnar 2.8/100
Large Format: Ernemann HEAG Series VII version II 9x12 with Kodak Anastigmat 6.3/170
Konica Hexanons 4/21, 2.8/24, 3.5/28, 2.8/35, 1.8/40, 1.4/50, 1.7/50, 1.8/50, 3.2/135, 3.5/135, 3.5/200, 4.5/300, 3.5-4.5/35-70, 4-4.6/28-135, 3.5/35-70, UC 3.5/45-100, 4/70-150, 4/65-135, UC 4/80-200. Hexars 3.5/28, 3.5/135, Konishiroku 2.8/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35, Skoparex 3.4/35, Tessar 2.8/50, Sonnar 1.5/50, Biotar 2/58, Pancolar 1.8/50, Cardinar 4/100, Zeiss-Opton Biogon 2.8/35
Meyer/Pentacons 2.8/28, Primagon 4.5/35, Trioplan 2.9/50, 1.8/50, 2.4/50, Primotar 3.5/50, Primotar 3.5/135
Topcon RE Auto Topcors 1.8/58, 3.5/135, 5.6/200
Russians: OKC1-18-1 2.8/18, OKC1-28-1 2.8/28, Jupiter-12 2.8/35, Jupiter-8 2/50, Industar-50 3.5/50, Industar-26M 2.8/50, Industar-22 3.5/50, Zenitar M2S 2/50, Helios-44-2, Jupiter-9 2/85, Jupiter-11 4/135, Tair-3C 4.5/300
Tokina 3.5/17, Nikon Auto Nikkor-N 2.8/24, Nikon Micro-Nikkor-P 3.5/55, Ross Xpress 3.5/4in, Ross Xpress 4/5in, Ross Xpress 4.5/8.5in, Wollensak APO-Raptar 10/541
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009
Posts: 1400
Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
|
| Posted: Tue May 08, 2012 12:38 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ian, that's a conversion I'd love to do too. I think it will suit your style. Keep us posted if you really decide to do it.
_________________
My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
altroformato
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group
|
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Rss feed
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
