S-M-C and Super Takumar 50mm f1.4

[nemesis101]

Mine too!

Is this a good thing?

Doug.

[nemesis101]

Yes I have a Tak as well.. the L1 has a bloody awful viewfinder, and I can often not see the green focus confirm, esp. as I wear specs... It would be better with a bigger viewfinder - I have few problems using the Tak on my K10D but it such a luxury when I put it on any of my 'Native' 35mm M42 bodies.. lovely (huge) screen and great split image focusing!

Doug

PS GREAT SHOTS I MEANT TO SAY!

[no-X]

Here are some examples from Super Takumar 50/1.4. I mostly use Super Multi Coated version, but even this older one is very very good



f/7.1



f/7.1



f/1.4


_________________
for sale: Vivitar (Komine) 55/2.8 Macro 1:1 (K/AR) | CZJ Tessar 13,5cm f/4.5 (M42) | Vivitar 35/1.9 (M42) | (Carl Zeiss) aus Jena 1Q Biometar z. 80/2.8 P6

list of Helios 44 lenses | List of CZJ T-marked M42 lenses | I'm not absolutely retarded, English simply isn't my mother tongue :s)

up-to 30mm: Vivitar (Tokina) Series 1 VMC 28/1.9, Vivitar (Komine) MC close-focus 28/2.8, Zeiss Distagon T* 25/2.8 ZS
35mm: Super Takumar 35/2 PRO, S-M-C Takumar 35/2, S-M-C Takumar 35/3.5, CZJ eMC Flektogon 35/2.4, SC Curtagon 35/2.8, Vivitar 35/1.9, MG Primagon V 35/4.5, CZJ Tessar T 40/4.5
50mm: S-M-C Takumar 50/1.4, S-M-C Macro Takumar 50/4, Tomioka Cosinon MC 55/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Tomioka Macro Yashinon 60/2.8, CZJ Biotar T 58/2 preset, CZJ Biotar T 58/2 17-blades, CZJ eMC Pancolar 50/1.8, aJ Pancolar 55/1.4, KMZ Helios 44-2 58/2 00xxx, KMZ Helios 44-2 58/2 0xxx, MMZ Helios MC 44-3 58/2, Helios 77M 50/1.8, KMZ Zenitar M2s MC 50/2, KMZ Industar 50/3.5, MC Volna-9 Macro 50/2.8, MC Pentacon 50/1.8, MG Trioplan 50/2.9, MG Primoplan V 58/1.9, Voigtländer Color Ultron 50/1.8, Macro Prakticar 55/2.8
85mm:, CZJ Biotar T 75/1.5 M42, CZJ eMC Pancolar 80/1.8, aJ Biometar 80/2.8 P6 zebra, CZJ Biometar 80/2.8 M42, MG Primoplan V 75/1.9 [exa], MG Night Primoplan 80/1.9 [VP Night], KMZ Helios 40-2 85/1.5 (custom hybrid of 40 and 40-2), S-M-C Takumar 85/1.8, KMZ Jupiter-9 Π 8,5/2 M39, LZOS Jupiter-9 85/2 SLR M39, LZOS Jupiter-9 85/2 M42, Kodak Meniscus 90mm, MG Telefogar V 90/3.5, MG Trioplan V 100/2.8
over 100mm: Ernemann Kinostigmat 11cm, Voigtlander SL Macro APO Lanthar 125/2.5, Spiratone 135/1.8 plura-coat, KOMZ MC Jupiter 37AM 135/3.5, KOMZ Jupiter-11 135/4, KMZ Tair 11A 135/2.8, Pentacon preset 135/2.8 (bokehmonster), CZJ Sonnar MC 135/3.5, CZJ Triotar T 135/4, LR-A Pololyt 135/4.5 "T2", ZOMZ TAIR-3 300/4.5

[orly_andico]

I read in a 50mm comparo that the 50mm Super-Tak is considered extremely soft wide open "like having vaseline on the front element."

http://www.pbase.com/carpents/nls

That said, my copy is 37801 and has the very obvious yellow cast due to the thorium glass. I thought this could be corrected in post processing.

HOWEVER the cast causes quite a bit of light loss: on my K10D the 50/1.4 wide-open produces the same shutter speed/ISO combination as the SMC-A 50/2 so the yellow cast produces a 1-stop light loss!

[no-X]

The cause of the yellow cast is special optical glue (canada balsam oil), which is degradated by the radioactivity from the thoriated glass element. Tomioka used different optical glue for their later lenses (e.g. thorium Yashinon DS-M 50/1.4), which doesn't suffer from this problem.

Anyway, it can easily be reverted. I use 11W UV tube. One month under the tube removes more than 95% of entire color cast.

Before:



and after:



differences in weeks (crops: left: week 0, right: end of week 4. The lower line are crops from the center of the lens and the higher line are crops outside the lens - reference):



The older the lens, the darker cast. 4 weeks are sufficient for newer Super-Multi-Coated and SMC Takumars, but older Super Takumars may require a longer period of bleeching or stroger source of UV rays.

Anyway, 50/1.4 Takumars are way sharper at f/1.4, than 55/1.4 Revuenons, 50/1.4 Yashinons, 50/1.2 Yashinon and other lenses from Tomioka.


_________________
for sale: Vivitar (Komine) 55/2.8 Macro 1:1 (K/AR) | CZJ Tessar 13,5cm f/4.5 (M42) | Vivitar 35/1.9 (M42) | (Carl Zeiss) aus Jena 1Q Biometar z. 80/2.8 P6

list of Helios 44 lenses | List of CZJ T-marked M42 lenses | I'm not absolutely retarded, English simply isn't my mother tongue :s)

up-to 30mm: Vivitar (Tokina) Series 1 VMC 28/1.9, Vivitar (Komine) MC close-focus 28/2.8, Zeiss Distagon T* 25/2.8 ZS
35mm: Super Takumar 35/2 PRO, S-M-C Takumar 35/2, S-M-C Takumar 35/3.5, CZJ eMC Flektogon 35/2.4, SC Curtagon 35/2.8, Vivitar 35/1.9, MG Primagon V 35/4.5, CZJ Tessar T 40/4.5
50mm: S-M-C Takumar 50/1.4, S-M-C Macro Takumar 50/4, Tomioka Cosinon MC 55/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Tomioka Macro Yashinon 60/2.8, CZJ Biotar T 58/2 preset, CZJ Biotar T 58/2 17-blades, CZJ eMC Pancolar 50/1.8, aJ Pancolar 55/1.4, KMZ Helios 44-2 58/2 00xxx, KMZ Helios 44-2 58/2 0xxx, MMZ Helios MC 44-3 58/2, Helios 77M 50/1.8, KMZ Zenitar M2s MC 50/2, KMZ Industar 50/3.5, MC Volna-9 Macro 50/2.8, MC Pentacon 50/1.8, MG Trioplan 50/2.9, MG Primoplan V 58/1.9, Voigtländer Color Ultron 50/1.8, Macro Prakticar 55/2.8
85mm:, CZJ Biotar T 75/1.5 M42, CZJ eMC Pancolar 80/1.8, aJ Biometar 80/2.8 P6 zebra, CZJ Biometar 80/2.8 M42, MG Primoplan V 75/1.9 [exa], MG Night Primoplan 80/1.9 [VP Night], KMZ Helios 40-2 85/1.5 (custom hybrid of 40 and 40-2), S-M-C Takumar 85/1.8, KMZ Jupiter-9 Π 8,5/2 M39, LZOS Jupiter-9 85/2 SLR M39, LZOS Jupiter-9 85/2 M42, Kodak Meniscus 90mm, MG Telefogar V 90/3.5, MG Trioplan V 100/2.8
over 100mm: Ernemann Kinostigmat 11cm, Voigtlander SL Macro APO Lanthar 125/2.5, Spiratone 135/1.8 plura-coat, KOMZ MC Jupiter 37AM 135/3.5, KOMZ Jupiter-11 135/4, KMZ Tair 11A 135/2.8, Pentacon preset 135/2.8 (bokehmonster), CZJ Sonnar MC 135/3.5, CZJ Triotar T 135/4, LR-A Pololyt 135/4.5 "T2", ZOMZ TAIR-3 300/4.5

[luisalegria]

No-X - On the UV process -

Excellent job of documenting progress !

A very convincing demonstration.
_________________
I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work.

[orly_andico]

no-X you're absolutely right! you should post that on a web site somewhere....

I was thinking of getting a black light (used for money detectors) but one month under a black light maybe if i have some sort of "light pipe" so that the entire output of the black light goes into the lens?

I assume sunlight would be much better as I live in the tropics and the solar constant is very high (1kW/sq m).. but it's typhoon season now.

[yalcinaydin]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/72157606245448013/



My first shots of this baby was in a low light environment with ISO1600 and I used NEat Image to reduce noise and RAW calibration for colors, especially temp reduction to reduce the yellow color cast which was a lot due to the yellow walls and yellowish lighting of the restaurant. I know that someof you want untouched shots but these shots can give at least some idea abouth the bokeh
Every shot takes 5-10 seconds tof ocus and lens is wide open at f:1.4.




_________________
My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses

[LucisPictor]

I once was thrilled by my (Tomioka) Auto Revuenon 1.4/55, but now that I have a 1.4/50 Zuiko and a 1.4/50 Tak, I have sold my Revuenon.
"Der Bessere ist des Guten Feind!" (="Better is the enemy of good.")
_________________
"KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 5D, EOS 40D, EF/M, EOS 300, Spotmatic SPII, EXA 1c, Rollei 35XF, Minox 35 GL, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b, Kodak Retina Ia and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;3.5/135 | Former GDR: CZJ Flek 4/20; Meyer 1.9/58; CZJ 4/135 | Leica: Summicron 2.0/35; Summicron 2.0/50; Elmar 4/180 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;1.4/50;1.2/55;1.8/85; | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Steinheil 2.8/85; Will 4.5/105; Zeiss 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 1.4/50; | Rikenon: 35-70 | Rollei: 1.8/50, 80-200 | Russian: Peleng 3.5/8; Zenitar 2.8/16; Volna 2.8/50; Industar 3.5/50; Industar 3.5/5cm; Helios 2/58; Jupiter 2/85; Jupiter 3.5/135; RF: Jupiter 2.8/35; Jupiter 2/50 | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;60-300;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/135; 8/500 | Tokina: 28-85; 28-105 | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/28;2.5/28 | Yashica: 2/5cm |
Green is the gear I use the most. More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65
AF-lenses: Canon: 1.8/50 | Sigma: 1.8/24; 28-105; 18-125 OS | Tokina: 12-24; 24-200; 28-70 | Tamron 80-210 | http://lucispictor.weebly.com/

[peterqd]

I consider my Super Tak 1.4/50 is one of my very top lenses. I can't see a lot of difference with the CZJ Pancolar, and it definitely outshines my S-M-C Tak 1.8/55.

It was yellowed when it arrived and I cured it on the bathroom window cill. Here with our cloudy skies it took from November to March to completely clear, but I'm sure it would be a lot quicker in stronger sunlight. But I think it deserves a lot of patience - it took years to yellow so expecting it to clear in hours is unrealistic. Now it's clear I keep it in the transparent plastic case for the Mir-1V with the front cap off.
_________________
Lenses: M42 - CZJ 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 3.5/135 - Meyer/Pentacon 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 2.8/135, 4/200
Russian - J8, J9, J21, J37A, M1v, M24m, I50, I50-2, H44-2, H44M, H44M-4, Vega12b
S-M-C Tak 3.5/28, 2.0/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 3.5/135
Super-Tak 3.5/35, 1.4/50, 1.8/55, 2.0/55, 1.9/85
Vivitar WA 2.8/28, Chinon Auto 1.7/55
K-mount : Pentax-M 2.8/28, 1.7/50
Minolta MD : MC W-Rokkor-SG 3.5/28, MC W-Rokkor-HG 2.8/35, MD Rokkor 1.7/50, MD Minolta 2/50, MC Tele Rokkor-QD 3.5/135, Viv W/A 2.8/28
Tamron zooms: SP28-80, SP35-80, SP60-300, 80-210
DSLR: Canon 400D 35mm SLR: Pentax Spotmatic SP, SPII(x2), SPF, ESII, K2, ME Super, P30n - Chinon CE3 - Minolta XG-M, XD7 - Praktica PLC2 - Zenit 3M
Rangefinder: Zorki-4, Beauty Light-o-matic III Medium Format: Yashica-Mat 124G

[orly_andico]

After reading this thread, I went out and bought a bug zapper bulb, which has really pitiful UV output but, by my calculations, should be comparable to direct sunlight.

Anyway I made a "light pipe" out of it and put my 50/1.4 Super-Tak inside. As of now (around 8 hours under the bug zapper bulb) I can already measure a difference in the color cast of the lens (based on histogram) -- the change in cast is actually not visible to the naked eye.

http://orlygoingthirty.blogspot.com/2008/07/radioactive-thorium-glass.html

I'm hoping that by tonight (after 20 hours of UV exposure) there should be a significant change.

[LucisPictor]

[zewrak]

Awaiting my first 50/1.4 that is yellowed I was thinking. What about them UV leds? Would a vast amount of them inside a reflector aimed into the lens be enough? (we are getting to the point where we have 4 hours of light per day).

I am thinking about putting 50 or so leds on a stainless steel plate or chromed even which I would weld to a cone of reflective material. At the narrow end of the cone I would make a 42x1 thread and simply screw the lens into it. The whole device would be lightproof and all the UV light should be either directly or by bouncing directed out thru the lens via the back lens.

What do you think of that DIY? :p
_________________
My homepage, all manual shots

[zewrak]

I updated my own Idea with using a set of old bellows.
_________________
My homepage, all manual shots

[montecarlo]

Many congratulations Andreas for the shots.
_________________
Canonet QL17 III
Zenit E , Helios-44 58mm f:2.0 , Tair-11A 135mm f:2.8, Jupiter-9 85mm f:2.0
Porst Reflex TL , Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35mm f:2.4
Chinon CE4, Petri MC 28mm f:2 , Chinon MC 28mm f:2.8 , smc Pentax-M 50mm f:1.7, Ricoh 50mm f:1.7 , Soligor T 135mm f:2.8 , HMC Hoya 135mm f:2.8
Pentax K100D , smc Pentax-DA 18-55 , smc Pentax-FA 80-320