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tond
Joined: 12 Jul 2011 Posts: 63 Location: Dublin, Ireland
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Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 1:53 pm Post subject: Rubber tools |
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tond wrote:
Hi guys,
few days ago I posted this question to a sticky topic about basic techniques to repair lenses, with zero success.
I think maybe a separate topic can get more attention and can be useful for others as well.
Please help in choosing a proper name ring removal tool. I have some lenses, which might benefit from cleaning, and I would benefit from gaining skills, so a professional service is not an option. Mostly these lenses are 3xxxxxx-4xxxxxx CZJ (Tessars, Biotars, Triotar etc.). The most common filter threads are 40.5mm, 49mm, 58mm.
Please share your experience, how flexible and pliant these rubber things are? I mean, if for example I need to unscrew the name ring from a 49mm lens, a common sense is that a rubber diameter should be 2-3mm less, say 46mm, to not interfere tight with the thread itself? I understand that for achieving of good touch the rubber should be more or less soft. And my concern is that if the rubber is quite squeezable, the rubber can shrink into the middle and don't allow firm grip (if the name-ring is not flat, but inclined towards the middle). In such a case should a rubber diameter be exact 49mm to fit to the ring firmly and don't shrink to the middle?
So, the first question is: for a 49mm-thread lens - do I need a rubber of 46mm, or 49mm diameter?
And the second question, after the diameters will be chosen, please help me to choose between the different makes.
1. A black rubber set http://www.ebay.com/itm/pro-Rubber-Lens-Repair-set-8-for-lens-openning-tool-fix-/350261526752?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item518d36c0e0
2. A yellow rubber set http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Repair-tool-set-Ring-Filter-Removal-Spanner-Wrench-For-DSLR-Lens-37-86mm-/180949719231?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a217198bf
3.A grey rubber set http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Sizes-Lens-Tool-Filter-Wrench-Set-Rubber-37mm-43mm-72mm-77mm-82mm-86mm-etc-/200817528022?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ec1a84cd6
4. Few of these separately http://www.ebay.com/itm/49mm-49-Silicone-Rubber-Lens-Repair-Tool-Filter-Wrench-Scratch-Free-NEW-/190624226859?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6216de2b
All opinions are welcome! Thank you!
Last edited by tond on Thu Nov 01, 2012 2:42 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7553 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
I have never used any of these rubber but sometimes scotch taps will help when opening name ring. Just stick two piece of scotch tap in opposite side and push both tape at the end in the same time. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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mo
Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 8982 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 12:16 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
To remove the name ring on the front of a lens I had.... I cut down a rubber sink plug (making sure it did not rest/sit on the glass of course)...crude but effective. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2698 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 10:05 am Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
mo wrote: |
To remove the name ring on the front of a lens I had.... I cut down a rubber sink plug (making sure it did not rest/sit on the glass of course)...crude but effective. |
I do that too. My sink plug is 45mm diameter and works well on 49mm lens fronts.
I've also used sticky tape for the same purpose, with some success. _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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tond
Joined: 12 Jul 2011 Posts: 63 Location: Dublin, Ireland
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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tond wrote:
Hi guys,
Thank you for your responses.
I meant to write you when my exercise is over.
I didn't buy the rubber tools tools yet; Instead I tried what was readily available.
WD-40 - served double purpose here:
- few drops between the name ring and the rim
- perfectly fits to 49mm filter thread lenses. It's easy to pick up aerosol cans for other sizes
A rubber glove - push and turn the can through only one ply of the glove, to avoid slipping
Worked for me. |
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eddieitman
Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Posts: 1247 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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eddieitman wrote:
I use these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Drilled-Gum-Stopper-9-5-homebrew-brewing-rubber-plug-/230720266646?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b7ffe196
or these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Better-Bottle-Bung-Homebrew-Cork-Stopper-Demijohn-NEW-/390183664715?pt=Home_Brew&hash=item5ad8c23c4b
I get them from a local homebrew company they do in several sizes number 10 is 46mm and 49mm _________________ My web site www.digital-darkroom.weebly.com
Life is like a camera. Focus on what's important, capture the good times, develop from the negatives and if things don't work out, just take another shot. |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2698 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
I've never seen a can and rubber glove combo before, but if it works without damaging anything why not eh
I'd like to have a set of rubber rings but can't decide which ones to buy. _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10532 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Mon Oct 29, 2012 6:26 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
The Asahi M42 lens cap with rubber glove trick, works well on Takumar name rings with 49mm filter diameter...
Find a lens cap that fits! _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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thundertwin72
Joined: 28 Sep 2011 Posts: 43 Location: Barcelona
Expire: 2013-12-16
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 7:59 am Post subject: |
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thundertwin72 wrote:
Hello:
I bought the tools you put rubber on the first link. They work great. Of these, the most use is the second largest. With this I removed lenses Helios, Pentacon, Takumar, Pentax, Canon, Nikon...
Regards. _________________
DSLR: Canon 50D, Canon 1000D.
EVIL: Olympus e-pl1, Fuji X-E1.
SLR: Fujica ST801, Praktica MTL5B, Praktica MTL50, Pentax MX, Pentax ME Super, Pentax K1000, Canon A1, Canon AE1 Program, Canon T60, Canon EF, Canon FTb QL, Minolta SRT-101, Minolta XG9, Nikon FE2, Nikon FM2n, Nikon FM, Nikon FE, Nikon FA, Olympus OM-1, Olympus OM-10, Yashica FX-3, Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, Contax 137MA Quartz, Contax RTS, Zenit E, Zenit EM, Зенит ET, Contaflex II, Contaflex IV, Киев 60 TTL.
Rangefinder: ФЗД-2, Зоркий-4, Киев-4.
Rangefinder fixed lens: Yashica Electro GSN, Yashica Electro GX, Yashica Minister D, Yashica Lynx 14E, Yashica Lynx 5000E, Canonet QL17, Olympus 35RC.
TLR: Flexaret II Flexaret IIa, Flexaret IIIa, Flexaret IV, Flexaret IVa, Flexaret Va, Flexaret VI Automat, Flexaret VIa Automat, Flexaret Standard, Flexaret VII Automat, Weltaflex, Rolleicord Va, Yashica Mat 124G.
LENSES:
(m42): Chinon 2.5/24, Super Takumar 3.5/28, Pentacon 2.8/29, Pentacon 3.5/30, Chinon Auto 2.8/35, Super Takumar 1.4/50, SMC Takumar 1.4/50,EBC Fujinon 1.4/50, Pentacon 1.8/50, EBC Fujinon 1.8/55, Helios 44-2 2/58, Helios 44M 2/58, Helios-44M4 2/58, Vivitar Series 1 2.5/90, Pentacon 2.8/135, CZJ Sonnar 3.5/135, MC Юпитер-37AM 3.5/135, Kenlock 4/200, Jupiter-21M 4.5/200.
(PK): SMC Pentax-M 1.4/50, SMC Pentax-M 1.7/50, SMC Pentax-A 1.7/50, Kiron 2.8/105.
(C/Y): Yashica ML 1.9/50, Yashica ML 1.7/50, Vivitar 2.8/28, Panagor 2.8/90, Zeiss Planar *T 1.4/50, Zeiss Planar *T 1.7/50.
(FD): Soligor 2.5/28, Canon FD 1.4/50, Canon FD 1.4/50 SSC, Canon FDn 1.4/50, Canon FD 1.8/50 SC, Canon FDn 1.8/50, Vivitar 2.8/55.
(MD): Rokkor PF 1.7/50, Rokkor MD 1.7/50.
(F): Nikkor AI-S 2/35, Nikkor AI 2.8/35, Nikkor AI 1.4/50, Nikkor AI-S 1.4/50, Nikkor AI-S 1.8/50 "Long Nose", Nikkor AI-S 1.8/50, E Series 1.8/50, Nikkor AI 2/50, МС Гелиос-81Н 2/50, Panagor 3/55, Hoya 2.8/135, Hoya 3.5/35-105.
(OM): Zuiko Auto-S 1.8/50.
(Konica AR):Hexanon 1.8/40.
(Pentacon Six): MC Волна-3 2.8/80.
(LTM): Юпитер-8 2/50, И-26м 2,8/52.
(Contax/Kiev): Юпитер-8М f2/5cm.
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2698 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:36 am Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
thundertwin72 wrote: |
Hello:
I bought the tools you put rubber on the first link. They work great. Of these, the most use is the second largest. With this I removed lenses Helios, Pentacon, Takumar, Pentax, Canon, Nikon...
Regards. |
Thanks for letting us know _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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RnR
Joined: 11 Jul 2012 Posts: 283 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Expire: 2019-08-29
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 4:27 am Post subject: |
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RnR wrote:
For what its worth, I just got the second set on that list. And just opened a Konica 28mm without any issues. _________________ Currently shooting with Fuji X-E2s + Metabones Speedbooster + m42 and CY glass 💕
Cheers, Hasse |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2698 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 9:09 am Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
RnR wrote: |
For what its worth, I just got the second set on that list. And just opened a Konica 28mm without any issues. |
Good to hear it works ok. _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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Jvg
Joined: 07 Nov 2012 Posts: 205 Location: New York City
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 3:36 pm Post subject: |
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Jvg wrote:
tond wrote: |
Hi guys,
Thank you for your responses.
I meant to write you when my exercise is over.
I didn't buy the rubber tools tools yet; Instead I tried what was readily available.
WD-40 - served double purpose here:
- few drops between the name ring and the rim
- perfectly fits to 49mm filter thread lenses. It's easy to pick up aerosol cans for other sizes
A rubber glove - push and turn the can through only one ply of the glove, to avoid slipping
Worked for me. |
i could just hug you [kidding]. your invention (glove + canister) helped me open auto sears 28/2.8...
thanks dude. |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:16 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
I use a rear lens cap with the rubber glove. M42 caps fit neatly inside 49mm filter rings. The can is a good idea too!
For smaller diameter caps, like those on film advance levers, I use an engine valve grinding tool (from a car parts shop). It's like a very small sink plunger, but stiffer, with a wooden handle. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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tond
Joined: 12 Jul 2011 Posts: 63 Location: Dublin, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 11:37 am Post subject: |
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tond wrote:
Jvg wrote: |
i could just hug you [kidding]. your invention (glove + canister) helped me open auto sears 28/2.8...
thanks dude. |
hehe, I'm glad I helped, thanks, man! |
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Jvg
Joined: 07 Nov 2012 Posts: 205 Location: New York City
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 2:57 pm Post subject: |
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Jvg wrote:
tond wrote: |
Jvg wrote: |
i could just hug you [kidding]. your invention (glove + canister) helped me open auto sears 28/2.8...
thanks dude. |
hehe, I'm glad I helped, thanks, man! |
you indeed did help, and saved me some $$$
btw nice looking biotar you got there, just like mine but cleaner. mine is due for opening/cleaning/lubing. any tips/instructions you can supply?? |
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tond
Joined: 12 Jul 2011 Posts: 63 Location: Dublin, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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tond wrote:
Jvg wrote: |
you indeed did help, and saved me some $$$
btw nice looking biotar you got there, just like mine but cleaner. mine is due for opening/cleaning/lubing. any tips/instructions you can supply?? |
My biotar was very good from outside, but had fungus.
The preset biotar is very easy lens. But of course you need to have a lens spanner. This is a must. Once you have it, all the rings are simple to unscrew. The only one trick need to keep in mind. If you look at the lens from the rear side, you see three rings to unscrew. There is a fourth one, the outmost of them all, it sits deep, you barely can see it in the slit between the outmost of the tree visible rings and the lens's rear edge. My spanner couldn't get there, go I managed with two thin screwdrivers. This is the only trick. The rest is easy.
I'n not at home, I'm in a business trip and will be home in two week. So unfortunately I cannot show on pictures.
If you have any difficulties don't hesitate to ask! |
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Jvg
Joined: 07 Nov 2012 Posts: 205 Location: New York City
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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Jvg wrote:
tond wrote: |
My biotar was very good from outside, but had fungus.
The preset biotar is very easy lens. But of course you need to have a lens spanner. This is a must. Once you have it, all the rings are simple to unscrew. The only one trick need to keep in mind. If you look at the lens from the rear side, you see three rings to unscrew. There is a fourth one, the outmost of them all, it sits deep, you barely can see it in the slit between the outmost of the tree visible rings and the lens's rear edge. My spanner couldn't get there, go I managed with two thin screwdrivers. This is the only trick. The rest is easy.
I'n not at home, I'm in a business trip and will be home in two week. So unfortunately I cannot show on pictures.
If you have any difficulties don't hesitate to ask! |
Thanks. Much appreciate any insight you can give me. I definitely need to remove the front element on my biotar, as it seems to have some sort of bubbling residue going on on the inner side. Also, it had dented filter ring corrected by previous owner, and filter threads on the dent spot are crushed. Once the front element is out, i might try to file it down with sand paper. I know there are some variations of this lens in M42, some have a screw on the focus ring, but mine doesn't (i believe mine is from mid 50s - serial starts with 35). And on my copy, focus ring gets sticky at roughly 1 meter mark, and needs a slightly harder push to turn (at that mark only). so lubing is required. Should i dis-assemble the lens from rear end, to get focus ring removed, or from front?
P.S. i am, i no rush to clean this lens, so if you can perhaps post assembly and re-assembly pictures/instructions of it, whenever you get back from business trip and get some time to do it, that would be extremely useful. |
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tond
Joined: 12 Jul 2011 Posts: 63 Location: Dublin, Ireland
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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tond wrote:
Jvg wrote: |
Thanks. Much appreciate any insight you can give me. I definitely need to remove the front element on my biotar, as it seems to have some sort of bubbling residue going on on the inner side. Also, it had dented filter ring corrected by previous owner, and filter threads on the dent spot are crushed. Once the front element is out, i might try to file it down with sand paper. I know there are some variations of this lens in M42, some have a screw on the focus ring, but mine doesn't (i believe mine is from mid 50s - serial starts with 35). And on my copy, focus ring gets sticky at roughly 1 meter mark, and needs a slightly harder push to turn (at that mark only). so lubing is required. Should i dis-assemble the lens from rear end, to get focus ring removed, or from front?
P.S. i am, i no rush to clean this lens, so if you can perhaps post assembly and re-assembly pictures/instructions of it, whenever you get back from business trip and get some time to do it, that would be extremely useful. |
You can unscrew all three elements (two lens groups) from the rear side, and three elements (two lens groups) from the front side. Interesting architecture of the lens - you can unscrew ALL the elements without interfering with lens mechanical part, without dismantling the helicoid. So in fact you have your fully mounted lens, everything is moving - focus ring, aperture ring etc, but there are no glasses inside
This is what I did... As the mechanical part was perfect, I only cared about cleaning the glasses, for me it was sufficient to take out the glasses. And I didn't touch anything in the focusing assembly or aperture.. So unfortunately I hardly can help you here But when I'm home and get the lens in hands, maybe I recollect something useful. Good luck! |
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Jvg
Joined: 07 Nov 2012 Posts: 205 Location: New York City
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Jvg wrote:
tond wrote: |
You can unscrew all three elements (two lens groups) from the rear side, and three elements (two lens groups) from the front side. Interesting architecture of the lens - you can unscrew ALL the elements without interfering with lens mechanical part, without dismantling the helicoid. So in fact you have your fully mounted lens, everything is moving - focus ring, aperture ring etc, but there are no glasses inside
This is what I did... As the mechanical part was perfect, I only cared about cleaning the glasses, for me it was sufficient to take out the glasses. And I didn't touch anything in the focusing assembly or aperture.. So unfortunately I hardly can help you here But when I'm home and get the lens in hands, maybe I recollect something useful. Good luck! |
for now i might just clean up the glass elements, and leave sticky focus ring be. until, unless i figure out better and easy way to take apart focus ring without rendering the lens irreparable
thanks again, for really useful info. |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
I bought from this seller:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rubber-Repair-tool-set-Ring-Filter-Removal-Spanner-Wrench-For-DSLR-Lens-37-86mm-/180949719231?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a217198bf
Good rubber, but don't have other to compare. The rubbers just do the job well. _________________ La migliore cura di LBA � imparare una nuova lingua. Le meilleur rem�de de LBA est d'apprendre une nouvelle langue. La mejor cura del LBA es aprender una nueva lengua. |
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