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Rodinal Development Times
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 7:55 pm    Post subject: Rodinal Development Times Reply with quote
I have some FP4 that I want to try with Rodinal. What dilution, agitation and times am I looking at? I am shooting it @ 125iso.

Also, is HP5 ok to use with Rodinal. I hear it becomes very grainy?


PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hello

for iso 125 its the following :

1+25 9min
1+50 15
1+100 20

As for the HP5, i've tried the Ilford Pan 400, which has same development times than the HP5, i pushed it @800 and there was few grain. I think when you go at 1600 + the grain becomes really noticeable.

Ilford suggests their own developing method that is 10 seconds inversion, then 4 inversions/minute. I've gave up this method cause there was not enough contrast on the negatives. Now its first minute of continous inversion/stirring then every 30 seconds 2-4 moves. Worx fine ! for me Laughing

By the way here's the more useful developing link : http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php


PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Great link and bookmarked.

Do you shoot your films at box speed? I notice that a lot rate them lower.


PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2009 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
martinsmith99 wrote:
Do you shoot your films at box speed? I notice that a lot rate them lower.
I use to down rate (pull is the term) in most cases. The purpose in my case is reduce the contrast. I just noticed that in bright sunlight days the shadows tend to block out and the highlights to blow and pulling the film helps to achieve more easily printable negs. In cloudy overcast days I mainly shoot at box speed. My films of choice are FP4+, HP5+ and Delta100. Nothing really scientific in all of this, just a bit of trial and error.

Cheers, Marty.


PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I just finished film developing.
I was told to use Rodinal certain way and as a total novice, I am following advices.
BW film, temperature of all steps - 20°C, 500ml each part of chemistry. Sorry for giving Celsius and ml but it works this way for me.
1. Tank -Jobo 1520, capacity 550ml
2. Pre washing in tap water 3 minutes constant slowly inversion
3. Rodinal 5ml+500ml of water - total time 22 minutes
- first minute, slow constant inversion
- after 4 minutes - 4 slow inversion - 17 minutes to the end
- after 5 minutes - " - 12 minutes to the end
- after 5 minutes - " - 7 minutes to the end
- after 5 minutes - " - 2 minutes to the end
- after 2 minutes - Rodinal is disposed
4. Stopping, I use 400ml of water +100ml of white vinegar.
- 30second slow inversion
5. Ilford Rapid Fixer, I use the same proportion as vinegar.
- fresh fixer 4 minutes, beginning of each minute - 3 slow inversions
- second usage - as above
- third usage 2min 20seconds, then checking "fogginess" of transparent spots. Again 2min20sec. in fixer with 3 slow inversions beginning of each minute.
I was told to use Ilford fixer 7 times, each time 2x35mm or 1x120, beginning 3rd times to add for first and second cycle 20 seconds, 4th time 30 seconds, then 5th time 1 minute, 6th and 7th time 2x4minutes.
6. Washing the film - 10 minutes
7. Final quick wash with softener or just shampoo. 30 seconds with inversion. For final wash it is enough to use for 500ml of water >1 drop of shampoo.
8. Final treatment of hanging negative
After using clamps to straighten film I splash with distillate water each side of the negative and leave it for 5 hours for total drying


PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2009 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
What I forgot to mention, and what I think is very important:
When is going to loading film to developing tank, and later when I do scanning - I always use cotton gloves Smile


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Congrats on your development Wojtek Very Happy

The method can be simplified though :

No pre washing, or do it in stagnant water. For fixing it is recommanded to use the same method that you used for your developing.

Film washing : i used to let the water go for 5 minutes usually, now i do 2 minutes, let it rest for a while like 1 minute, then throw the first water, refill and let rest as above , with some stirring. Washing is ended by using Tetenal Mirasol washing agent ( 1+400 ) and 2 minutes to rest.

Films are then put to dry in a dust free zone : bathroom. Between 1 and 2 hours, negatives are clean and i'm happy Cool


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Pre-washing doesn't harm film, as I check and remove dye and anti glare layer. I know that it makes no difference but as I wrote, I just follow what I was told. I am very careful to change it. When I will have more practice I will try different.
How it looks like later?

Olympus 35 SPn Ilford HP5+400(to much grain -first one)




Koni-Omega 200 Arista 100 (here we have problem- camera doesn't wind film proper, there are no spaces between frames and scanner sets 6x6 pictures), screen captures





PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Simon, thank you for tips,
Do you think that I have to lower number of inversion to prevent ugly grain developing?


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I like the little grain effect, its not too obvious. Great results, first one is a bit blur, but that's the beer fault Wink the second one has superb details though ( nice bar ! )

As for water pre washing i was just saying that for saving some water. With practice you'll come up to your own stuff Cool


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
voytek wrote:
Pre-washing doesn't harm film, as I check and remove dye and anti glare layer.I know that it makes no difference but as I wrote, I just follow what I was told. I am very careful to change it.

In my experience it's a good practice in particular with medium format film since this film has colored anti halo layer which could affect development.
135 film seems not to have this problem. Then, IMO, if a method works for you and you're happy with it there's no reason to change. If you're looking for a less grainier effect I suggest to try different a developer, let's say ID-11 or Perceptol. The latter gives me good results with HP5+ exposed @200 in 1+3 dilution, but I used happily ID-11 (1+3 too) with good results too. Reducing the agitation could possibly reduce the grain too, but it will reduce the contrast also. In the end it's all a matter of experimentation, this is part of the fun Smile .

Cheers, Marty.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
YES, beer can affect humans life in many ways, picture sharpness too Very Happy

Marty, I will think about it but for now I will stay with Rodinal, I think that problem is in lack of my skills rather, Embarassed


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Marty, you are right. I just talk to my friend and he explained me that rodinal is not the best choice regarding 35mm however is good on 120. Well I will think to use different developer for 35mm. Thanks


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Its really a matter of taste ... Rodinal is a good developer with low speed films, for high speed ones you can choose another.

But it has two big pluses : high films capacity in terms of choice ( about 100 ) and more important dilution of 1+25 up to 1+100 and stand dev, while other developers use 1+3, which makes it an economic developer. Not the biggest issue, but still.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I really like the second Oly shot, silky smooth! The Koni shots, do you
use an Epson scanner? When I get frames too close together I unclick
the thumbnails box and custom cut each image for scanning.


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Katastrofo wrote:
I really like the second Oly shot, silky smooth! The Koni shots, do you
use an Epson scanner? When I get frames too close together I unclick
the thumbnails box and custom cut each image for scanning.

Exactly this happened. Have V700 - does a lot of mess, for this what I payed suppose to think, and making cappuccino French Vanilla or Latte. Evil or Very Mad


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Voytek, are you using just the Epson software?


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I do, could I use something better? Epson software sucks, BTW looks like for Windows ME


PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2009 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I use just the Epson software and USM set to low, or off. I then run the
files through Bibble 4, which has proven to be a good performer with
film scans, makes a TIF file.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I have the V500 and use the Epson software. It has an odd habit of clipping blacks and whites. I have to adjust for every image. Annoying!

Also, I think I may set the image size too high as I end up with 100-150mb TIFFs which may be why some scans have grain/noise.


PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2009 10:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
There may be a way to adjust that clipping - or maybe I'm thinking of photoshop Laughing --- anyway I discovered a menu item that lets you set % clipping.
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