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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 11:15 am Post subject: Pushing HP5 to 3200 or Ilford 3200 |
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alaios wrote:
Hi all,
I am on a business trip in Washington DC and I am thinking to try some street photography at night. I guess only iso 3200 would give me speeds fast enough to have some fun.
The two options I have is either pushing a HP5 or buying this Ilford 3200 film. Which of the two options would you consider as better to try?
Regards
Alex |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:29 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
HP5 pushes poorly, Delta 400 is better, but 3200 is a bit much; try 1600 and then use Microphen to develop it. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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PWhite214
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 230 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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PWhite214 wrote:
If you only have one camera, I would go for either the ISO 1600 or 3200. Maybe pick up a 2 stop neutral density filter too.
With all the photo opportunities, shooting ISO 400 in the daytime and high ISO for night should not be too much problem. Sacrificing a few frames on a roll of film doesn't cost that much. Just change out the film as necessary.
Phil |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
I bought a HP5 that I might push to 800 and an ilford 3200 delta for night shooting. I hope 3200 iso would be enough for shutter speeds of 1/125 and apertures around 8 to 11... If not I would have to push it to 6400
Regards
A |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:32 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
I bought a HP5 that I might push to 800 and an ilford 3200 delta for night shooting. I hope 3200 iso would be enough for shutter speeds of 1/125 and apertures around 8 to 11... If not I would have to push it to 6400
Regards
A |
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David
Joined: 13 Apr 2011 Posts: 1869 Location: Denver, Colorado
Expire: 2013-01-25
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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David wrote:
I've pushed Foma 400 to 3200 and 6400, both with fine results. Foma pushed better and retains less grain than HP5+. _________________ http://www.youtube.com/user/hancockDavidM |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:37 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi I mean pushing the iso 3200 ilford film to 6400 and not the hp5 to 6400.
It is more how much iso I need for night photography (light coming from street lamps and signs)
A |
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uddhava
Joined: 22 Aug 2012 Posts: 3071 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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uddhava wrote:
Man, you guys sure are pushy! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Pushing films or not one more question (so I do not flood forum with multiple posts).
I want to try some shoots with great depth of field at sunset. I have a 28-85 (3.5-5.6) lens and if I am not if I want large depth of field while keeping as large as possible the aperture (to allow light to get iinside) I should be shooting around 28-35 with apertures of 4-8.
What would be your iso film choice if you knew that the maximum shutter speed your camera had is 1 second.
Reformulating:
Shooting at sunset and sunrsire conditions with an aperutre of 4-8 and with maximum shutter speed of 1 second (no chance to shoot B at my cheap tripod) what would be your iso preference to start with?
Regards
Alex |
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PWhite214
Joined: 19 Apr 2014 Posts: 230 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 11:32 pm Post subject: |
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PWhite214 wrote:
Sunrise and sunset can be pretty bright. Light reflecting from clouds can be photographed at relatively low ISO and shutter speeds from 1/60 on up, f11 to 16. Bracketing by 2 or more stops can change the colors dramatically. Look at Flickr, [/url]https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=sunsets[url] for some guide to exposure. Lots of the posted photos have EXIF data attached.
Phil |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 3:12 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
just to update. I took delta 3200 for a walk. I was metering at 3200-1/2 which I guess it is iso 2500. I would develop though for 3200.
I found that 3200 to not be enough for outdoor shooting, at night, when you have only city lights available. I would try next time at 6400 or even more.
Regards
Alex |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 1:47 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Get a tripod!
Seriously, if iso 3200 isn't enough, you need to modify your technique. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 9:15 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Well a tripod would never allow me to freeze movement at night.
How do you freeze a mussician with a tripod? How do you freeze people walking just by city lights?
I still think I need faster iso for the type of shooting I am looking for.
I would let you know
A |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 11:04 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
A flashgun of course!
Check out the work of Weegee (Arthur Felig); he produced amazing street photography in New York in the 30s, 40s and 50s and he was definitely not using fast film!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weegee
Quote: |
Most of his notable photographs were taken with very basic press photographer equipment and methods of the era, a 4x5 Speed Graphic camera preset at f/16 at 1/200 of a second, with flashbulbs and a set focus distance of ten feet. |
Another photographer to study would be Brassaï (Gyula Halász) who produced many nighttime shots in Paris in the 30s and 40s:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brassai
For me, Brassai was the best nighttime street photographer of them all:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=brassai&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=9ys&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=sb&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=ppYJVPfRJajb7AbezIDQDA&ved=0CKQBEIke&biw=2144&bih=1053&dpr=0.9#safe=off&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&channel=sb&tbm=isch&q=brassai%20street%20photography&revid=1445792946&imgdii=_
I'd chose a fast prime such as a 50mm 1.7 or 1.8, if I was using an SLR, although the best solution would be a rangefinder such as a Kiev or Contax with either the 1.5/50 or 2/50 Jupiter/Sonnar. I've taken shots with my Contax and 1.5/50 Sonnar at 1/25sec that have no shake - the heavy body and lack of mirror and other moving parts is a big advantage over an SLR when it comes to handholding at low speeds. Alternatively, use an AF compact camera with a fairly fast prime such as a 2.8/35 that has an AF illuminator to enable focusing in the dark. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
thanks for the nice material you provided me. I will study them later on when I will have time
from my side I am sending you those two links for increasing iso to sexy levels
http://www.rogerandfrances.com/subscription/choosing%20bw%20films.html
(search for "Drummer, New York City")
http://the35mmproject.org/2013/10/26/ilford-delta-3200-pushed-to-12800/ |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4747 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
I'd stick to digital for this type of thing.
If you must use film, use a wide aperture lens, zooms lose too much light, use at least a f1.8 prime on your Minolta, f1.4's were designed with this type of work in mind.
Assuming you were shooting at say, 15th at full aperture with 3200 ISO film and a medium zoom lens, with a 1.8 lens you could shoot at 30th but at 800 ISO.
Alternatively use the film at normal speed and bounce a flash off the ceiling. Flash guns for your Minolta can be had for just a few pounds/dollars/euros
Pushing a film this much is going to give low quality images. You'll have grain like golf balls - nay, footballs. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15685
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:17 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
For pushing, no more than 2 stops and use a speed-increasing developer like Microphen.
Modern T-grain emulsions like Delta 400 or TMAX 400 are the best for this, you will get golfball-like grain, but as Phil said, with older emulsions, you will get football grain. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 11:56 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
thanks I enjoyed for your comments.
I do not have any prime with me but I would try both
to shoot with primes and also try once iso 6400 and see.
Btw do you always carry primes for that? To be honest I find zoom to be a great compositional tool by trying very fast different compositions. With a prime one has to do a lot of walking back and forth.
My fastest prime though is the 45mm minolta with f/2 that I like to shoot stopped down (I guess that would be 2.
Regards
A
btw did you see the shots on the links I sent? They look intresting to try |
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