| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
uddhava
 Joined: 22 Aug 2012 Posts: 3070 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
|
Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject: Preset ring for Sankor 2.8/135 not working |
|
|
uddhava wrote:
I have this lens and it seems something is wrong with the ring for presetting the aperture. It does not stop the
aperture adjustment ring from moving. Perhaps I am using it wrong or it is not working. Any advise is welcome.
It is the outer zebra style ring on the lens. Thanks.
 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
visualopsins
 Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10362 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
|
Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 5:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
visualopsins wrote:
Does turning the aperture adjustment ring turn the ring for presetting the aperture? If no, this is probably okay, otherwise the two rings are too close together -- there should be screws attaching the rings to whatever they move; adjust so rings move freely past each other. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses:
Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200
Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300
Macro-Takumar 1:4/50
Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm
Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element),
Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500
Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100
Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
Other lenses:
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
uddhava
 Joined: 22 Aug 2012 Posts: 3070 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
|
Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
uddhava wrote:
| visualopsins wrote: |
| Does turning the aperture adjustment ring turn the ring for presetting the aperture? If no, this is probably okay, otherwise the two rings are too close together -- there should be screws attaching the rings to whatever they move; adjust so rings move freely past each other. |
What happens is I set the preset ring and then when I turn the aperture ring it goes up to the spot where it should be stopped and then starts turning the preset ring also as you said. However the rings don't appear to be very close
to each other. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
luisalegria
 Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
|
Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
luisalegria wrote:
Its working as intended, up to a point. The aperture ring gets to the minimum aperture position, and then pushes the preset ring if forced further. Mine works the same way. But your problem is that its too easy and does not require greater force to move the preset ring. There is a detent with a spring internally that is not holding strongly enough to provide enough resistance. I suspect that part may be worn out (such as the aluminum around the detent hole is so worn the detent doesn't stay in the hole) or the spring is now too weak.
I can see how this can happen on such a well used lens. The only way to fix this would be to open up the mechanism and see whats going on. Personally I would live with this and use it as a pure manual lens. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
uddhava
 Joined: 22 Aug 2012 Posts: 3070 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
|
Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 7:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
uddhava wrote:
| luisalegria wrote: |
Its working as intended, up to a point. The aperture ring gets to the minimum aperture position, and then pushes the preset ring if forced further. Mine works the same way. But your problem is that its too easy and does not require greater force to move the preset ring. There is a detent with a spring internally that is not holding strongly enough to provide enough resistance. I suspect that part may be worn out (such as the aluminum around the detent hole is so worn the detent doesn't stay in the hole) or the spring is now too weak.
I can see how this can happen on such a well used lens. The only way to fix this would be to open up the mechanism and see whats going on. Personally I would live with this and use it as a pure manual lens. |
Thank you, that is exactly right. I do feel some resistance when I reach the correct aperture so I could become
more sensitive to it. Also if the focusing ring moved more easily that might help me to notice the preset. Do you think I could lubricate it or loosen it somehow? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
luisalegria
 Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
|
Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
luisalegria wrote:
Simplest solution for stiff focus on these things is treatment with lighter fluid (naptha).
This is not an ideal fix. Best would be a total dis-assembly. removal of old grease and re-grease.
But that is too much work for me, usually. Getting helicals to fit together again is for people who like 3D puzzles.
Try this, if you want to try the easier method. The risk is low, but you could get into problems.
- remove the lens mount to have better access to the back.
- work the focus mechanism and looking inside you will see that the helical threads are visible.
- put a little (just a few drops, maybe 3-5) on the helical threads at different points. Use an eye-dropper, a syringe or similar.
- work the helical back and forth, best with the lens upside down, so the naptha gets a change to flow through the threads from back to front.
- you will probably find that focus is now quite loose !
- but this will not last. As the naptha dries it will tighten up again, but usually not as stiff as before.
- A couple of more treatments might be needed
- risks are -
that the old grease will not just be re-moisturized, but may start to turn into loose particles. The helical may feel like its "grinding" when you move it.
that the thing may get too loose (no more dampening). don't overdo the naptha. it may dissolve all the grease.
that some of the naptha may seep into the optical side and get on the optics. This lens is really easy to open and clean, so thats not much of a risk. but again, dont use too much naptha. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|