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Nikkor S Auto 50mm f1.4
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walter g



Level 3

Joined: 20 Feb 2010
Posts: 2092
Location: NC, USA


PostPosted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the adapter from big_is,but didn't really get to try it much. Too overcast.I won't get to really try it until after the end of the month.
Anyway this is at f1.4, slightly adjusted, and sharpened.


_________________

Main cameras
Minolta X370-N,Konica C35,Canon EOS 10D,Panasonic G1
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PF 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PF 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6, Vivitar Macro Focusing T/C in MD mount
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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Lightshow



Level 3

Joined: 04 Nov 2011
Posts: 1259
Location: Calgary


PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

koji wrote:
I bought this 1974, been used over 30 years and over-hauled once.



Although it is S.C (next version of S only), it has lived well. Very Happy

The "C" refers to it's multicoating, Nice lens you have,
I have the matching 24/2.8-N.C, 35/2-O.C, 35/2.8 Shift, & 55/1.2-S.C

I also have a 35/2.8-S that matches the OP's lens, it's well worth getting if you like the 50/1.4.
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walter g



Level 3

Joined: 20 Feb 2010
Posts: 2092
Location: NC, USA


PostPosted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 35 2.8 S is on my list to watch.

One more shot Nikkor S 50 1.4 at 1.4. EDIT I added the post shot. By looking at the lens from the back against a strong light, there are quite abit of micro scratches covering the whole front element. The other elements are perfect. I guess this hurts micro contrast and sharpness. I did bump the contrast on these images a little. These are Jpegs, I don't have enough memory to process RAW images.
Comments are welcome. I don't know what to expect from this lens performance wise.

Magnolia Blossom



Post at 1.4


_________________

Main cameras
Minolta X370-N,Konica C35,Canon EOS 10D,Panasonic G1
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PF 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PF 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6, Vivitar Macro Focusing T/C in MD mount
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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Lightshow



Level 3

Joined: 04 Nov 2011
Posts: 1259
Location: Calgary


PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 6:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was routinely editing my 10MP RAW's in LR2 on my laptop with XP + 1GB of ram, so ram shouldn't be a big reason.
Just use a hood on your 50 to keep the sun off it and I doubt you'll see much if any degradation in your images, the rear element is a different story.
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches



This

Image

was

shot

with

this

lens

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/
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walter g



Level 3

Joined: 20 Feb 2010
Posts: 2092
Location: NC, USA


PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I need to pick up a hood for this lens, but I'm trying to find an orginal cheap.
I've never upgraded the ram on my 7 year old computer. It's only 512mb right now, and that's not enough. Sad
_________________

Main cameras
Minolta X370-N,Konica C35,Canon EOS 10D,Panasonic G1
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PF 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PF 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6, Vivitar Macro Focusing T/C in MD mount
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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Arninetyes



Level 2

Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Posts: 290
Location: SoCal

Expire: 2013-03-26

PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lightshow wrote:

This Image was shot with this lens


It's kind of amazing how little image degradation occurs with damage to the front element. I've had seriously dirty front elements still give very sharp images. However, dirty front elements WILL increase lens flare.

I have to ask: What does lens flare look like with this lens? Must be pretty impressive!
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Arninetyes



Level 2

Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Posts: 290
Location: SoCal

Expire: 2013-03-26

PostPosted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lightshow wrote:
I was routinely editing my 10MP RAW's in LR2 on my laptop with XP + 1GB of ram, so ram shouldn't be a big reason.
Just use a hood on your 50 to keep the sun off it and I doubt you'll see much if any degradation in your images, the rear element is a different story.
http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches


Heh! Just followed this link, and the flare IS pretty amazing! Thanks for the link and the post!
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