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My digital B/W workflow, any comments?

 
 
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eeyore_nl



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Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 7:11 am    Post subject: My digital B/W workflow, any comments? Reply with quote

After having worked with some complicated workflows, including the channel mixer, dedicated plug-ins and filters, the last months I have come to a very simple workflow. Far less work, and more natural looking results, in my opinion:

When I go out shooting B/W pictures, I put the camera in RAW mode (of course), and I enable the B/W preview setting. Usually with a digital color filter.

In my RAW Converter, Canon DPP (but it will probably work similar for Nikon and other cams), I take the B/W preview setting as a basis, and I use the other parameters, like contrast and exposure compensation for tuning the photo. This means that I am never distracted by the color version of the picture (Canon DPP uses the camera settings for previewing the RAW).

I don't do any noise reduction, since digital noise in a B/W picture looks better than the smoothness that noise reduction easily gives you. At least, my opinion.

Essentially, I do all of the B/W conversion in the RAW converter, with the standard color filters (Y/O/R/G/B) and no post-processing in Photoshop. In my opinion, this delivers more natural pictures, it makes (almost) your complete workflow B/W, and it saves a lot of time.

My guess is that part of the more natural look comes from the fact that you are dealing with the RAW file, and not with the converted JPEG picture.

Some results of this:







Any comments or suggestions for improvements? Would you prefer to look at more contrast-rich or more extensively processed pictures? Or do you think working in B/W straight from the camera is just fine?
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my_photography



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Joined: 03 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seldom shoot B/W but when I do, I will shoot in Raw and turned on monochrome in channel mixture in PS.
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Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna München Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5

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fatdeeman



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Posts: 141
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to use the black and white adjustment layer in PS to give the most contrast between different colours, it's like using several colour filters at once.
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cooltouch



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Joined: 15 Jan 2009
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Location: Houston, Texas

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also shoot RAW and use Canon's DPP. I'll have to give this a try. Your photos certainly look film-like enough at web resolutions.

In the past, I've converted from color film scans to b&w in post processing, and I've taken digital photos and converted them to b&w in post processing as well, but these were shots of the moon, so I just used the 16-bit grayscale conversion, which worked fine.
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Canon FD: F-1n, FTbn, AE-1P, Canon Power Winder A, Canon Power Winder F, Sportfinder F, Vivitar 17mm f/3.5, Vivitar 35mm f/1.9, 50mm f/1.8, FL 55mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.2 SSC Aspherical, 200mm f/4, 35-105mm f/3.5, Vivitar 200mm f/3.5, Vivitar S1 24-48mm f/3.8
Canon EOS: Elan IIe, XS (1000D), EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 IV USM, 70-210mm f/4, 75-300mm f/4-5.6 II USM, Tamron 24-70 f/3.3-5.6 Aspherical, 420 EZ strobe
Canon Rangefinder: IIIa, Serenar 50mm f/1.8
Nikon F: F2 w/MD-2/MB-2, 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, 55mm f/3.5 Micro, 105mm f/2.5, 80-200mm f/4.5, Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5, Vivitar Series 1 105mm f/2.5 Macro
Olympus: XA, OM-10 w/Manual Adapter, 50mm f/1.8
Pentax K:KX, MV, 50mm f/2 SMCP, Kalimar 28-200mm f/3.9
Fuji: Finepix S3000 3mp digicam
Tamron Adaptall: 24mm f/2.5, SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro, 35-80mm f/2.8-3.5, 80-210mm f/3.8-4, SP 60-300mm f/3.8-5.4, SP 1.4x, SP 2x
T-Mount: Century Precision Optics Tele Athenar 500mm f/5.6 and 650mm f/6.8
Medium Format: Bronica ETR-Si, 75mm f/2.8, Prism Finder E, Grip E, 120 & 220 backs; Yashica 124
Other Stuff: Spiratone Telescope eyepiece adapter (converts T-mount lens to telescope), Cambron zoom slide duplicator (T-Mount), Opteka Digital Slide Duplicator
Strobes: Metz 60 CT-1, Braun F900, Vivitar 285, Yashica Pro-50 DX, Yuzo DC2814 Ring Light
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eeyore_nl



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Joined: 09 Nov 2008
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Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a full-size version of a picture that I took today:

http://u1.ipernity.com/14/66/66/7086666.408ddb72.jpg

Monochrome setting in DPP, Orange filter, contrast +2, sharpening +4, WB Daylight.
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martinsmith99



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Joined: 31 Aug 2008
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Adobe Bridge to convert as it allows you to tweak the brightness of individual colours.

I sometimes use the gradient map in CS3 to convert as this can give pleasant results quickly.
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eeyore_nl



Level 2

Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

martinsmith99 wrote:
I use Adobe Bridge to convert as it allows you to tweak the brightness of individual colours.

I sometimes use the gradient map in CS3 to convert as this can give pleasant results quickly.


I think my main thing is that I don't like post-processing. Therefore I try to keep it as simple as possible.


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my_photography



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Joined: 03 Nov 2008
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eeyore_nl wrote:

I think my main thing is that I don't like post-processing. Therefore I try to keep it as simple as possible.



This is a nice and simple but great BW photo you have there.
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Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna München Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5

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womble



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Joined: 28 Sep 2009
Posts: 54
Location: Hertfordshire

PostPosted: Thu Jan 28, 2010 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lovely conversions.

Personally, I prefer to use the BW adjustment layer in photoshop 3. It is simple to use, allows quick appreciation of the effect of different filters, and can fine tune the image by dragging the mouse on areas you want to lighten or darken. I can do exactly the same in lightroom although without the preset filters, and of course is non-destructive editing of the RAW file allowing me to revert back to the original file with no hassle.

At the end of the day, as long as you are comfortable with your method and get the results you want, the method itself is not so important.

K.
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francotirador



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Location: Buenos Aires

PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

those on the right track. Beautiful B & W, my only opinion is ... congratulations
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cooltouch



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the good things about doing the B&W tweaking in Canon's DPP is you're working with a RAW image, so all the manipulations are non-destructive, that is, one can always revert the image back to its original state, if so desired.
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Michael

Check out my Photo Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blog/?cat=4


Canon FD: F-1n, FTbn, AE-1P, Canon Power Winder A, Canon Power Winder F, Sportfinder F, Vivitar 17mm f/3.5, Vivitar 35mm f/1.9, 50mm f/1.8, FL 55mm f/1.2, 85mm f/1.2 SSC Aspherical, 200mm f/4, 35-105mm f/3.5, Vivitar 200mm f/3.5, Vivitar S1 24-48mm f/3.8
Canon EOS: Elan IIe, XS (1000D), EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS, 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 IV USM, 70-210mm f/4, 75-300mm f/4-5.6 II USM, Tamron 24-70 f/3.3-5.6 Aspherical, 420 EZ strobe
Canon Rangefinder: IIIa, Serenar 50mm f/1.8
Nikon F: F2 w/MD-2/MB-2, 24mm f/2.8, 28mm f/2.8, 35mm f/2, 50mm f/1.4, 55mm f/3.5 Micro, 105mm f/2.5, 80-200mm f/4.5, Vivitar Series 1 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5, Vivitar Series 1 105mm f/2.5 Macro
Olympus: XA, OM-10 w/Manual Adapter, 50mm f/1.8
Pentax K:KX, MV, 50mm f/2 SMCP, Kalimar 28-200mm f/3.9
Fuji: Finepix S3000 3mp digicam
Tamron Adaptall: 24mm f/2.5, SP 90mm f/2.5 Macro, 35-80mm f/2.8-3.5, 80-210mm f/3.8-4, SP 60-300mm f/3.8-5.4, SP 1.4x, SP 2x
T-Mount: Century Precision Optics Tele Athenar 500mm f/5.6 and 650mm f/6.8
Medium Format: Bronica ETR-Si, 75mm f/2.8, Prism Finder E, Grip E, 120 & 220 backs; Yashica 124
Other Stuff: Spiratone Telescope eyepiece adapter (converts T-mount lens to telescope), Cambron zoom slide duplicator (T-Mount), Opteka Digital Slide Duplicator
Strobes: Metz 60 CT-1, Braun F900, Vivitar 285, Yashica Pro-50 DX, Yuzo DC2814 Ring Light
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martinsmith99



Level 3

Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 2274
Location: S Glos, UK

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
One of the good things about doing the B&W tweaking in Canon's DPP is you're working with a RAW image, so all the manipulations are non-destructive, that is, one can always revert the image back to its original state, if so desired.

The same applies with my method of converting in Camera RAW of CS3's Bridge/PS. It has many adjustment sliders to apply filter effects and more versatile than DPP. There is another version in Photoshop, but the orange slider is missing for some reason.
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eeyore_nl



Level 2

Joined: 09 Nov 2008
Posts: 464
Location: Netherlands

PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

martinsmith99 wrote:
cooltouch wrote:
One of the good things about doing the B&W tweaking in Canon's DPP is you're working with a RAW image, so all the manipulations are non-destructive, that is, one can always revert the image back to its original state, if so desired.

The same applies with my method of converting in Camera RAW of CS3's Bridge/PS. It has many adjustment sliders to apply filter effects and more versatile than DPP. There is another version in Photoshop, but the orange slider is missing for some reason.


Yes, using Camera RAW sounds sensible too. That is, if you have Photoshop.
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