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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 9:06 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
The last one is obviously oversharpened Walter. The one previous to that I would say is possibly slightly oversharpened, but 100% better. This picture proves there is nothing wrong with the camera or with your focussing.
I mentioned before about the difficulty of focussing on strong red colours. There is something peculiar about red which makes it appear blurred sometimes, I prefer "smudged". Also flowers at close range are very difficult because the tiny depth of field cannot cover the whole depth of the subject (not to mention the wind). I think both these explain why the yellow stamens of that flower look very sharp but the petals less so. I appreciate you're stuck with using MD lenses for macros only - I'm in the same boat right now - but before you judge, how about trying a different kind of subject, and preferably not a red one!
I often use the free program Irfanview for quick resizing. In the resizing DB there is an option to resharpen after resizing. You can't set the degree of sharpening, so on smaller files the effect is magnified compared to large ones, and very often it overdoes it. A few disasters have taught me to keep this option turned off and apply sharpening separately, or use USM in Photoshop. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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walter g
Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 8:31 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
The last one is obviously oversharpened Walter. The one previous to that I would say is possibly slightly oversharpened, but 100% better. This picture proves there is nothing wrong with the camera or with your focussing.
I mentioned before about the difficulty of focussing on strong red colours. There is something peculiar about red which makes it appear blurred sometimes, I prefer "smudged". Also flowers at close range are very difficult because the tiny depth of field cannot cover the whole depth of the subject (not to mention the wind). I think both these explain why the yellow stamens of that flower look very sharp but the petals less so. I appreciate you're stuck with using MD lenses for macros only - I'm in the same boat right now - but before you judge, how about trying a different kind of subject, and preferably not a red one!
I often use the free program Irfanview for quick resizing. In the resizing DB there is an option to resharpen after resizing. You can't set the degree of sharpening, so on smaller files the effect is magnified compared to large ones, and very often it overdoes it. A few disasters have taught me to keep this option turned off and apply sharpening separately, or use USM in Photoshop. |
Thanks, Peter. I need to practice some with the software to figure where I need to set it at. Belive me the next set I shoot won't have any red in it.
Seems to be a nice lens, that I will like more as I learn it. I should of mentioned above that the only thing I did to the pictures is resize then sharpen them. No other PP.
I really enjoy using Minolta lenses but I can't wait till I get a Panny G1 or Nex. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4748 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
An old post I know but I just picked up a lovely clean one from ebay. My Rokkor collection is growing. Its a beautiful, smooth lens and I'm going to try it out in a few days. Mine looks like an early MC design with the DOF preview button. It looks shorter than yours too.
_________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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parabellumfoto
Joined: 06 Apr 2013 Posts: 413 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 6:01 am Post subject: |
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parabellumfoto wrote:
philslizzy wrote: |
An old post I know but I just picked up a lovely clean one from ebay. My Rokkor collection is growing. Its a beautiful, smooth lens and I'm going to try it out in a few days. Mine looks like an early MC design with the DOF preview button. It looks shorter than yours too.
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How does that button work? _________________ Minolta MC Rokkor f1.4 50mm
Minolta MD Zoom Macro 35-105mm f3.5-4.5
Nikon Nikkor 50mm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 5cm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-Q Auto 135mm F2.8
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 35mm F1.8G
http://www.parabellumfoto.com/ |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4748 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 10:21 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
How does it work?
When the lens is not on the camera, the aperture is in the closed down position. When you put the lens on the camera, a lever in the body opens it up to full aperture. You can turn the ring through the numbers and nothing happens until you fire the shitter (oops) then it stops down to the selected aperture.
The button stops the lens down manually, it allows you to have a preview of the depth of field. Models of the SRT100 had a DOF preview but later ones didnt. I dont think I've ever found a use for it. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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parabellumfoto
Joined: 06 Apr 2013 Posts: 413 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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parabellumfoto wrote:
philslizzy wrote: |
How does it work?
When the lens is not on the camera, the aperture is in the closed down position. When you put the lens on the camera, a lever in the body opens it up to full aperture. You can turn the ring through the numbers and nothing happens until you fire the shitter (oops) then it stops down to the selected aperture.
The button stops the lens down manually, it allows you to have a preview of the depth of field. Models of the SRT100 had a DOF preview but later ones didnt. I dont think I've ever found a use for it. |
I think the Tamron zoom I just bought has something similar. Not sure. _________________ Minolta MC Rokkor f1.4 50mm
Minolta MD Zoom Macro 35-105mm f3.5-4.5
Nikon Nikkor 50mm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 5cm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-Q Auto 135mm F2.8
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 35mm F1.8G
http://www.parabellumfoto.com/ |
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