meyer optik gorlitz orestor 135 f2.8

trev · Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK

Anyone know how I can fix the blades on this otherwise superb lens. A few, probably 2 or 3, are now misaligned and as a result I do not have a circle in the middle. Or, alternatively does anyone know where I can get it fixed in the UK?

TrueLoveOne · Expire: 2013-12-24

I had one with the same problem some time ago. I took all 15 blades out and started to put them together again.... the last ones were a real pain in the a**, but i finally did it! Be patient and think logical, it's not a difficult lens to fix if you're a bit handy!
Oh, and only start the job if you have the time!

Just do it i think! Good luck! Wink

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

I replaced a few blades that had come adrift in my Orestegor 200 / 4 without too much problem, it is a fiddle and you need steady hands, but it's not hard.

However, my Orestegor blades do not match the markings on the ring, I can get the blades wide open but the ring shows f5 instead of f4. Closed down the ring shows f22 but the blades are f11 ish. The blades wont shut down fully and the ring doesn't open fully. So if someone has any idea how to get to the mechanics between the ring and the blades I would love to hear it.
Sorry for the hijack of the topic, but any information on the Orestegor aperture would be useful.

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

The Orestor looked kinda OK when I bought it, it was complete and has no serious scratches or dents, the glass has no fungus, and the focus and aperture rings sort of moved. For �4 it was worth the risk.

I cleaned the crap off the glass and tried it on the Sony A6000, it didn't reach infinity - actually, it didn't reach anything. It was hopelessly blurred. Then I noticed the front element was reversed, the hood was stuck against the retainig ring and the glass dropped out when the hood was removed. Replacing it the right way around improved it, slightly. it was still unusable. So I took it apart.

The second element, the large bonded one, was tilted by 2mm and jammed solid. I think it had been this way from new as the thread lock was still holding the captive ring, which was also solid as it was over-tightened onto the tilted element. I had to boil the whole front block to get it hot to dismantle the retainer and the element. The bonded element is suffering around the edge where the balsalm can be easily seen as a gold coloured ring around the edge, and could be seen before I boiled the damn thing!

The blades...there is one with the pivot pin missing, and I have no idea where it is, it must have worked its way out sometime in the past. If anyone has a blade or two from a dead lens I would love to get them to try and repair the lens. It's not an important lens to me, I have a nice Pentacon version, but a blade would make it work again. Or, if someone wants an Orestor that they would use wide open, let me know.

TrueLoveOne · Expire: 2013-12-24

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

Ahhh...yes....well...things have changed a bit since then, I found a bunch of lenses that I didn't know I'd got which included yet another Pentacon 200 that needed front elements, so the parts M.O.G. sacrificed yet more parts. Now I have three perfectly good Pentacon 200 / 4 and this pile of parts. Which has a perfectly good rear group.

So it makes far more sense for me to send you the rear group, and anything else you might need, to repair your lens. Wink

TrueLoveOne · Expire: 2013-12-24

Just noticed: there are 2 lenses in this topic. Starting with the Orestor 2.8/135 and then you Orestegor 4/200. Since you were talking about an Orestor in the 12 dec 2016 answer i thought you missed blades from that one, but it's the 4/200 i think now, which is in your most recent pictures. Are the blades the same? Or the rear group? My incomplete lens is a 2.8/135.

Lloydy · Expire: 2022-01-01

I have one of those in bits as well, I'll check. Wink

This is the 135 / 2.8 rear block. It's a good one, and yours if you want it. Like 1 small