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okieisaak
Joined: 24 Jun 2013 Posts: 2 Location: Oklahoma
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Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 2:58 pm Post subject: Meyer Görlitz Primoplan 1.9/58 Lens Cleaning |
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okieisaak wrote:
I got this lens on Craigslist yesterday for $75 with the Exakta camera, but the aperture blades are oily and the glass on the inside needs to be cleaned. Can someone walk me through some steps to take apart the body. I'm very good mechanically, but I don't know what things to looks for.
Thanks.
Here's a video of the back of the lens...
http://youtu.be/mdMZYg9JXmg |
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Mir
 Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 974 Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 2:55 am Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
Not a good choice of lens to start learning....
This Primoplan is a very sought after lens and you could probably sell it
as it is for a substantial profit !
I'm somewhat experienced and i have fun doing this sort of thing but i strongly suggest
you start with some cheap lens..... just so you can mess things up and learn while doing it !
You could try this:
http://forum.mflenses.com/lens-repair-ebay-user-100-feedback-t61112.html
and still make a huge profit if ever you don't like the lens and decide to sell it.
I've done another lens from the Meyer-Optik lineup, it's probably similar in build except mine had an M42 mount:
http://forum.mflenses.com/meyer-optik-primotar-e-3-5-50-help-t59593.html
I was doing this beat up one above so i could learn enough to service a better copy i have...
i never did service my good copy.... doing the one above was no fun...
Having meddled in alot of lenses, i wouldn't advise you open up this Primoplan.
The last 3 Primoplan that sold on ebay averaged a price of $417...... a 4th one for repair sold for $174... _________________ "Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135, Ultron 1.8/50, Sonnar 2.8/180 T*
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Jupiter-8 2/5cm, Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 2.8/24, MD 1.8/35, MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, Auto Bellows Macro 3.5/50, MD Macro 3.5/50, MD 4/70-210, MD 2/85, Auto Bellows Macro 4/100, MD Tele-Rokkor 4/200,
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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calvin83
 Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7495 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Sep 21, 2013 3:11 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Send it to repair if you think it is worth to keep the lens. It is not as easy as you thing to get these chrome Meyer fixed especially you have never do something similar. You will also need spanners and other tools to open it. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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calvin83
 Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7495 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Do not turn the aperture ring too fast if the blades become oily or you will damage the blades. My copy have two boken blades I have to remove them. Fortunately, the lens still function well even two blades are missing. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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Mir
 Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 974 Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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Posted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
Contact jenstarct on eBay.... he's in Florida...
He's done 6 of my lenses
I know he can work on your Primoplan
See here
http://forum.mflenses.com/lens-repair-ebay-user-100-feedback-t61112.html _________________ "Obsta principiis, finem respice"
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness"
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135, Ultron 1.8/50, Sonnar 2.8/180 T*
MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Jupiter-8 2/5cm, Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
MINOLTA: MD 2.8/24, MD 1.8/35, MD 3.5/35-70 Macro, MD 1.2/50, MC Rokkor-X 1.2/58, Auto Bellows Macro 3.5/50, MD Macro 3.5/50, MD 4/70-210, MD 2/85, Auto Bellows Macro 4/100, MD Tele-Rokkor 4/200,
LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
@we3fotography
@7plus_pictures
@_whats.that.car_ |
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mo
 Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 9029 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 2:37 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
@Calvin
I picked up a beaten up copy recently and it has broken blades in it. Did you open the lens to remove the blades? _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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Gardener
 Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:18 am Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
I agree, be very, very careful, these old DDR lenses sometimes have the weirdest designs. I am working on a Pancolar right now, and I had to strip it down almost completely for what I thought would be a routine CLA. |
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Gonzoo
 Joined: 29 Mar 2010 Posts: 232
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:26 am Post subject: |
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Gonzoo wrote:
Take a look at the fourth posting in this thread: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=34913
I think this will help. _________________ Canon 5d | Exa 500 | Pentacon Six + too much lenses  |
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eggboy
 Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 189 Location: Western Massachusetts, USA
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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eggboy wrote:
+1. He has done some work for me...considering the amount of time and materials required to do this stuff right, he is almost doing it for free.
I've disassembled, cleaned and relubed helicals with expensive Microtools grease, re-filled engravings with laquer sticks, purchased lens wrenches, high end screw drivers and gum cones....it takes a 4-5 hours (if you are lucky and don't run into problems refitting the helicals back together...) plus $100 or more in supplies and tools to do right and not damage/scratch/strip screws/etc.....meanwhile this guy does the whole thing for less....follow the link to his page on the thread referenced by Mir. You will be happy! _________________ Eugene
Current Fave Lenses:
Nikkor S.C 5cm/1.4 Rangefinder with Amadeo S>M Mount
Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 5cm/2 Contax RF c. 1937,
Nikkor-N 28/2 Nikon F mount
Digital Cameras:
Nikon Z 6II, Panasonic GX8
Film Cameras:
Ansco B2 6x9 Box Camera
Bronica S2
Nikon F2
List and a photo or two of my lens herd |
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mo
 Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 9029 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
I sent mine to a local repairman,his first opinion was the back glass was badly damaged by fungus and could not be cleaned. I am still on the fence as to what to do next. Take the risk, that even though the damage on the rear glass may cause softness and loss of contrast,the other front elements may be in better condition.
I can use PP to help with any flaws? _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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inombrable
 Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 12:18 am Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
| mo wrote: |
I sent mine to a local repairman,his first opinion was the back glass was badly damaged by fungus and could not be cleaned. I am still on the fence as to what to do next. Take the risk, that even though the damage on the rear glass may cause softness and loss of contrast,the other front elements may be in better condition.
I can use PP to help with any flaws? |
Hi Mo,
My copy has haze in all the elements, Tried to clean them (with every toxic stuff i could get my hands to but nothing worked), still the image is really nice, of course you get very low contrast and in some conditions flare is bad but with PP everything can be corrected, i haven't seen a significant loss of sharpness in the images (IMO) and the bokeh is definitely there. I'll post some images later to show PP vs No PP.
Also, and i am not saying that you should do the CLAD okieisaak, but I completely disassembled my copy and it was fairly easy. Mine is M42 so it could be different than the exakta you have |
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mo
 Joined: 27 Aug 2009 Posts: 9029 Location: Australia
Expire: 2016-07-30
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Posted: Thu Feb 06, 2014 1:00 am Post subject: |
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mo wrote:
Mine is also the M42 version and thanks for your reply,you know how it goes when you have to make a decision regarding a lens.
I have spent the morning tryng to find discussions out in googleland about rear element damage/scratches/fungus damage....they always seem to end up talking about the front elements.
The best thread I found was Attilas Broken Glass how it impact picture it certainly is the worst case scenario.
I would very much appreciate seeing the lens in question as well as the samples. Mine is at the repairmans now, and I think he is working on it today . I may have taken the biggest gamble/risk of my life on reparing this lens. I think the hardest part is not having done my usual test images, because the broken blades did not allow me to do that. Where I would have had a better idea on how badly this back element coating damage would have effected the overall image. I am flying blind on this one..perhaps emotion has gotten the better of me.
the blades seem to be the easier to fix, the rear damage was a surprise "element" in this journey. _________________ Moira, Moderator
Fuji XE-1,Pentax K-01,Panasonic G1,Panasonic G5,Pentax MX
Ricoh Singlex TLS,KR-5,KR-5Super,XR-10
Lenses
Auto Rikenon's 55/1.4, 1.8, 2.8... 50/1.7 Takumar 2/58 Preset Takumar 2.8/105 Auto Takumar 2.2/55, 3.5/35 Super Takumar 1.8/55...Macro Takumar F4/50... CZJ Biotar ALU M42 2/58 CZJ Tessar ALU M42 2.8/50
CZJ DDR Flektogon Zebra M42 2.8/35 CZJ Pancolar M42 2/50 CZJ Pancolar Exakta 2/50
Auto Mamiya/Sekor 1.8/55 ...Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 2.8/50 Auto Mamiya/Sekor 200/3.5 Tamron SP500/8 Tamron SP350/5.6 Tamron SP90/2.5
Primoplan 1.9/58 Primagon 4.5/35 Telemegor 5.5/150 Angenieux 3.5/28 Angenieux 3,5/135 Y 2
Canon FL 58/1.2,Canon FL85/1.8,Canon FL 100/3.5,Canon SSC 2.8/100 ,Konica AR 100/2.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5
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