View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2378 Location: Faversham Kent UK
|
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 2:26 pm Post subject: Machined AI conversions - anyone had any issues? |
|
|
Richard_D wrote:
So far I've only bought ring-replaced AI'd Nikkors, but I've just spotted a 105 2.5 that's been machined at some time in the past. Has anyone had any issues with home machined conversions? _________________ Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
rick_oleson
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 386 Location: Lexington Kentucky USA
|
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 12:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
rick_oleson wrote:
I do them myself, and I show other people how to do it on my website. You don't want a hack job that was done with a hammer and chisel, but it's a pretty simple job and anyone who's careful and understands how the thing works can do it.
Practically all of my Nikkors are converted AI lenses (all done by myself, with varying tools depending on when they were done). They're obviously all fine or I wouldn't keep doing it.
Of course, it's possible to do it wrong. You can easily check the accuracy of an AI job by fitting the lens to an AI camera: at full aperture, the ridge should just reach the tab on the AI ring but not move it. The milling has to be deep enough so that the AI tab does not interfere with the aperture ring as it will on some non-converted, pre-AI lenses, and there has to be enough metal bearing against the tab so that it won't slip past the tab. If the milling looks rough or careless, it may suggest that the lens was not handled carefully during the work, in which case I'd avoid the lens. _________________ I don't know what I want to be when I grow up |
|
Back to top |
|
|
rick_oleson
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 386 Location: Lexington Kentucky USA
|
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 2:34 am Post subject: |
|
|
rick_oleson wrote:
... a lot easier too, and it was cheaper back when you could still get them: I bought a 50/2.0 AI kit from Nikon for $5.20!
but all the others I had to do the hard way.... _________________ I don't know what I want to be when I grow up |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Richard_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2007 Posts: 2378 Location: Faversham Kent UK
|
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 7:30 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Richard_D wrote:
Thanks for the info folks. _________________ Richard
The interesting bit:
Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.
DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.
More to come... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|