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ulrichsson
Joined: 17 Jul 2020
Posts: 8
Location: UK
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 Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2020 3:22 pm Post subject: M42 CZJ 135mm 3.5 aperature ring not working |
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ulrichsson wrote:
Hi,
I have just started shooting with old manual lenses, so I'm very much a newbie to his.
I've aquired a M42 Carl Zeiss Jena 135mm F3.5 in great (outside) condition. The problem is that turning the aperature ring does absolutely nothing. However, setting the aperature to M closes it down nicely. Setting it to A, it opens up and closes smoothly when I press the pin at the rear.
So it seems the blades work fine, but the ring has lost its connection to them (please correct me if I'm wrong).
Now do you think this is likely something a complete layman like me has a decent chance of fixing himself (and if so, how?) or should I rather get a professional or, probably more cost efficient, sell it and get a new one?
Bjoern |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010
Posts: 902
Location: Essex UK
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| Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2020 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
It sounds like its working just fine.
Switch the lens to M & the linkage should work perfectly.
It's easiest to focus with the aperture wide open (more light & the shallower DOF makes spotting focus easier) to enable this several approaches were used among M42 lenses
There are several types of M42 lens setup:
The earliest where typically 'pre-set' - with two aperture rings only one being connected to the blades the other set the smallest aperture the blades would go to. The blades could be moved to the pre-set aperture without having to look at the ring.
Then an auto pin was added which the camera could push in just as the mirror flipped up, closing the aperture only as the shot was being taken. To begin with these auto lenses had a switch to change them to manual so they could be used on older M42 cameras that didn't have the pin. This is the type you have. AFAIK no M42 adapters have an ability to push in the pin just as the shot is taken.
Some of the later M42 lenses have an auto pin but no manual switch (by the time they were made most people had cameras that could operate the pin) This type are slightly more of a pain to adapt needing something to hold the pin in - this can be a lip on the adapter, a little wooden wedge, a spot of glue... So far I've avoided them
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ulrichsson
Joined: 17 Jul 2020
Posts: 8
Location: UK
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| Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2020 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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ulrichsson wrote:
Many thanks for the reply. I'm afraid I did not express myself correctly before, sorry!
When I wrote "setting the aperature to M closes it down nicely", I meant to say that the aperture closes down completely to what I assume is F22 (but snappily without delay), irrespective of where the ring is set to. It also does not change when I turn the aperture ring. The pin in the back is without pressure on M (which I guess is correct?).
This means there is something wrong, does it not?
_________________
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Sony E, Zonlai 22mm, F1.7
M42, Revuenon Auto 50mm F1.9
M42, A.Schacht Ulm Travenar R 135mm F3.5 |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 10528
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2020 6:58 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Welcome ulrichsson
Sounds like as you suspect the linkage from ring to diaphragm doesn't work as it should, something came loose or broke, likely the former. Depending on your skill level it may be easy to open the lens and fix it -- everybody had a first time -- M42 135/3.5 are typically simple construction.
There should be later replies here. The forum may already have a tutorial. Search also youtube.
_________________
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Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010
Posts: 902
Location: Essex UK
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| Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2020 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
| ulrichsson wrote: |
Many thanks for the reply. I'm afraid I did not express myself correctly before, sorry!
When I wrote "setting the aperature to M closes it down nicely", I meant to say that the aperture closes down completely to what I assume is F22 (but snappily without delay), irrespective of where the ring is set to. It also does not change when I turn the aperture ring. The pin in the back is without pressure on M (which I guess is correct?).
This means there is something wrong, does it not? |
I'm afraid you're right. Describing yourself as a newbie made me jump to the newbie solution.
It may well be a relatively simple fix, but it might still be more than you fancy trying yourself, much depends on how handy you are. Good luck! |
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ulrichsson
Joined: 17 Jul 2020
Posts: 8
Location: UK
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| Posted: Fri Jul 17, 2020 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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ulrichsson wrote:
Thanks to both of you!
I think I'll give the repair a shot myself. I'm not the most nimble-fingered person, but also not completely hopeless and it would be a nice skill to acquire.
I'll search the forum and youtube for advice. I assume there will also be something on what equipment to get.
_________________
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Sony E, Zonlai 22mm, F1.7
M42, Revuenon Auto 50mm F1.9
M42, A.Schacht Ulm Travenar R 135mm F3.5 |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012
Posts: 4748
Location: Cheshire, England
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| Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2020 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
I fixed one once, (the famous no 100000000). Was an easy job and I'm as cack handed as they come
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Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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ulrichsson
Joined: 17 Jul 2020
Posts: 8
Location: UK
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| Posted: Sun Jul 19, 2020 11:57 pm Post subject: |
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ulrichsson wrote:
That is reassuring! I have ordered a pack of screwdrivers and I'll check what else I need and give it a go when I have a free weekend.
P.S.: Loving the avatar!
_________________
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Sony E, Zonlai 22mm, F1.7
M42, Revuenon Auto 50mm F1.9
M42, A.Schacht Ulm Travenar R 135mm F3.5 |
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uddhava
Joined: 22 Aug 2012
Posts: 3071
Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-06-21
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| Posted: Mon Jul 20, 2020 7:42 am Post subject: |
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uddhava wrote:
[quote="ulrichsson"]That is reassuring! I have ordered a pack of screwdrivers and I'll check what else I need and give it a go when I have a free weekend.
P.S.: Loving the avatar![/quote]
A spanner wrench will be needed. |
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