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DigiChromeEd
Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 3462 Location: Northern Ireland
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 11:48 am Post subject: Lens Fungus |
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DigiChromeEd wrote:
Article from a 2011 edition of Amateur Photographer magazine.
_________________ "I've got a Nikon camera, I like to take a photograph" - Paul Simon |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16541 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Thanks for sharing! _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10531 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Thanks Edgar!
"... old, unit focus prime lenses" -- what is "unit focus"?!
The pronouncement that "if the fungus has etched the glass, the lens is useless" depends, as we all know...
Just because the author may have destroyed most of the lenses he tried to fix doesn't mean that will be everybody's experience. There are plenty of examples here at MFlenses.
And that "shelf above a radiator or heater" should be positioned to limit high temperature... _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Sciolist
Joined: 29 Mar 2017 Posts: 1445 Location: Scotland
Expire: 2021-04-16
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Posted: Sun Jun 18, 2017 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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Sciolist wrote:
I've had 100% success (so far) in removing fungus by putting a dab of Clotrimazole, commonly found as an anti-fungal cream, to each side of the glass element and gently rubbing between thumb and forefinger for a minute or so. To date, all it has removed is the fungus, with no degradation of anything else. I've been doing this for a few years now, but not come across anyone else on the internet doing the same, so I'm my own tester on this one.
I've not rinsed the cream off my pk lenses, but just polished it off, as I want to see if that leaves any 'active' protection, having looked into how Clotrimazole works. But on my m42's I've rinsed, then polished.
And in case it's not actually the Clotrimazole that is doing the business, here's what else is in my old tube of 'dual action treatment for athletes foot' -
Benzyl alcohol
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan stearate
Cetyl palmitate
Cetostearil alcohol
Octyldodecanol |
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Mike Deep
Joined: 25 Oct 2008 Posts: 316 Location: Upstate New York
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 2:57 am Post subject: |
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Mike Deep wrote:
On every lens I've disassembled to clean up fungus, I've simply shot the glass with Zeiss lens cleaner and wiped it off.
I'm a bit of a brute with these things though. _________________ Rocket Launch Photography
Olympus: 24/2.8 MC, 28/3.5, 28/2.8 MC, 35/2.8, 50/3.5, 50/1.8, 50/1.4 MC, 35-70/3.6, 75-150/4
Nikon: C 24/2.8, AI-S 28/2.8, K 35/2.8, F 55/3.5, F 105/2.5, F 135/2.8, F 200/4, No. 5T
Pentax: 28/3.5, 35/3.5, 50/1.4 (v1), 50/1.4 (v2), M 50/1.4, SMC 55/1.8, 105/2.8, SMC 135/3.5, 150/4
Tamron: SP 17/3.5 151B, 135/2.8 T-135, SP 300/2.8 60B, SP 35-80/2.8-3.8 01A, 80-210/3.8-4 103A, SP 1.4x TC 140F, SP 2x TC 01F
Vivitar: 24/2 (Kino), 28/2 (Kino), 50/1.4 (Cosina), S1 90/2.5 (Tokina), S1 28-80/2.8-3.5 (Kino), 70-150/3.8 (Kino), S1 70-210/3.5 (Kino), 2x Macro TC
Etc: Yashica 3.5cm/2.8, Fujinon 50/1.4, Yashica ML 50/1.4, Tomioka Yashinon 55/1.2, Mamiya/Sekor 55/1.7, Sigma 90/2.8
That's a lot of 50s. |
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konicamera
Joined: 03 May 2009 Posts: 746 Location: Warsaw, Poland
Expire: 2014-06-14
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 8:02 am Post subject: |
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konicamera wrote:
Sciolist wrote: |
I've had 100% success (so far) in removing fungus by putting a dab of Clotrimazole, commonly found as an anti-fungal cream, to each side of the glass element and gently rubbing between thumb and forefinger for a minute or so. To date, all it has removed is the fungus, with no degradation of anything else. I've been doing this for a few years now, but not come across anyone else on the internet doing the same, so I'm my own tester on this one.
I've not rinsed the cream off my pk lenses, but just polished it off, as I want to see if that leaves any 'active' protection, having looked into how Clotrimazole works. But on my m42's I've rinsed, then polished. |
As you're rimazoling those clots by "gently rubbing between thumb and forefinger," don't you end up with any tiny scratch marks on the coating? _________________
L'homme s'ennuie du bien, cherche le mieux, trouve le mal, et s'y soummet, crainte du pire. - Duc François-Gaston de Lévis
While it is nice to be important, it's more important to be nice.
URL: www.konicafiles.com
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Sciolist
Joined: 29 Mar 2017 Posts: 1445 Location: Scotland
Expire: 2021-04-16
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 9:46 am Post subject: |
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Sciolist wrote:
konicamera wrote: |
Sciolist wrote: |
I've had 100% success (so far) in removing fungus by putting a dab of Clotrimazole, commonly found as an anti-fungal cream, to each side of the glass element and gently rubbing between thumb and forefinger for a minute or so. To date, all it has removed is the fungus, with no degradation of anything else. I've been doing this for a few years now, but not come across anyone else on the internet doing the same, so I'm my own tester on this one.
I've not rinsed the cream off my pk lenses, but just polished it off, as I want to see if that leaves any 'active' protection, having looked into how Clotrimazole works. But on my m42's I've rinsed, then polished. |
As you're rimazoling those clots by "gently rubbing between thumb and forefinger," don't you end up with any tiny scratch marks on the coating? |
The cream I use doesn't scratch. Or at least it doesn't appear to scratch under a a 10x loupe which I use during the process. But you've made me ask myself another question - if I've ever had to clean fungus off a coating using this method. I'll have to have a think, as I can't categorically say yes. |
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ZoneV
Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1633 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:06 am Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
"... old, unit focus prime lenses" -- what is "unit focus"?!
... |
Unit focus: All the lenses are moved together to focus the lens.
In contrast internal focus, or Nikon CRC or floating elements move only some lenses but not all to focus.
There are sometimes one or more groups of lenses moved on cams. This allows for better correction, and easier focus -- often needed for big tele lenses, or autofocus. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10531 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Mon Jun 19, 2017 2:45 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
ZoneV wrote: |
visualopsins wrote: |
"... old, unit focus prime lenses" -- what is "unit focus"?!
... |
Unit focus: All the lenses are moved together to focus the lens.
In contrast internal focus, or Nikon CRC or floating elements move only some lenses but not all to focus.
There are sometimes one or more groups of lenses moved on cams. This allows for better correction, and easier focus -- often needed for big tele lenses, or autofocus. |
_________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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