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savagandrew
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 3:07 pm Post subject: Lens fungus removal (and greetings) |
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savagandrew wrote:
Greetings MFlenses!
If this question is answered somewhere else on your forum, I hope you will not be too angry.
Nevertheless. I am a very amateur photographer (and, I must confess, a child of the digital age). My Dad gave me his old manual SLR a few years ago (A Vivitar XV-2) along with 3 Miranda lenses (a 50mm 2.0, a a 75-200mm 4.5-5.3 and a 28mm 2.8, for those who are interested).
I have only used the Vivitar a few times; after it piqued my interest I bought a second hand Canon 300d. Though have recently picked it back up, to see what I have learned with the Canon.
Anyway - my problem is this:
The 200mm lens has some fungus growing inside the lens - not a large amount, but enough to be troublesome (I apologise wholly for the finger smudge on the lens - it's usually clean.)
[edit] seems hotlinking from my site might not work - the URL for this image is:
www.andrew-savage.co.uk/CRW_4710.jpg
[/edit]
How easy is it to remove this fungus? I have been interested in the internals of lenses for some time, and am prepared that if I do disassemble this lens I may never get it back together. I am hoping that it isn't too difficult to get to this part of the lens. If it helps - the lens mounting screws look like:
[edit]The URL for this image is:
www.andrew-savage.co.uk/CRW_4711.jpg
[/edit]
Any help would be greatly appreciated, even if it's a flat out "it's impossible". |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
If you haven't got a valuable lens then the first thing is to try it on a camera, if you like the results don't worry about a bit of fungus...if you keep the lens in a dry place, with movement of air (even opening a cupboard door moves air) it wont get worse. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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wilson.c
Joined: 18 Jan 2010 Posts: 363 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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wilson.c wrote:
If the fungus is on the front element it should be easier, compared to something in the movable elements in the middle. I would try some 90+% alcohol (known here as Sterilizing Alcohol) with a cotton swab and see if can remove. Some here have used Zippo lighter fluid as well with some success. If you find that the fungus is inside the front element, then you need some proper tools to remove and clean the front elements. If the fungus has been there a while, it has probably etched itself into the coating, which means you have to live with it unless you want to polish off the coating.
Here are some links for your reference.
http://forum.mflenses.com/take-care-when-cleaning-lens-from-fungus-t6442.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/fungus-not-a-problem-t24224.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/cleaning-glass-t25427,highlight,fungus.html _________________ Wilson
DSLR: Canon 5DMkII, 500D + Panasonic GF-1
SLR: Canon T90, Canon F1, Canon A1, Canon AE1 + Rolleiflex SL66 + Bronica ETRs
R'finder: Contax G1, G2 + Leica M6, M3 + Contax II
Lenses
M42: Angenieaux 90/1.8
Canon: FD 50/3.5 Macro, FD 80/1.8, FD 80-200L/4
Contax G: CZ Hologon 16/8, CZ Biogon 21/2.8, CZ Biogon 28/2.8, CZ Planar 45/2.0, CZ Sonnar 90/2.8
P-Six: CZJ Sonnar 180/2.8, CZJ Biometar 120/2.8
Contax: Distagon 28/2.8, Distagon 28/2, Planar 85/1.4, Makro-Planar 100/2.8
Others: CZ Sonnar 135/3.5 (Hasselblad V mount)
More little ones to be documented.
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Scheimpflug
Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1888 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 4:30 am Post subject: Re: Lens fungus removal (and greetings) |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
Welcome to the forums!
Your images didn't post because of an anti-spam feature... I found that out as well on my first post here. You can send a PM to Attila, and he can lift the restriction for you.
In the mean time, here are your photos:
_________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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savagandrew
Joined: 10 Apr 2010 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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savagandrew wrote:
Thank you, Scheimpflug
And thanks to everyone else, as well. The fungus is visible on photos (none scanned in, but I took some test shots at the end of my film).
For now I will leave it well alone - the lenses aren't stored in a humid environment, and I only use the camera once every couple of months. If I find myself yearning for the long lens I might look into lens maintenance places - or just crack it open to have a look inside.
Thanks again |
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keltzar
Joined: 22 Apr 2010 Posts: 70
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:41 am Post subject: |
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keltzar wrote:
keep this lens away from the others or the fungus may spread.
From the photo, it looks to be on the surface of the front element or the rear.
If surface of front, then you have probably cleaned it off and what remains is the scar caused by long term fungal infection i.e. hydrofluoric acid from the fungus etching away the coating. Nothing you can do.
If its rear of front element, pry off the name ring and you should see the entire front element group. With a spanner wrench on the two notches, remove the entire group.
After this you have to go with experience ... but it could be screwing off the retaining ring so the front element can come out and you can clear the rear of the element. Be very methodical in your cleaning or you will leave an annoying smudge.
I've seen other formulas, but I think the best is a 50:50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and alcohol. .. but even regular lens cleaning fluid probably works ok. |
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ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Posts: 1397 Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 11:56 am Post subject: |
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ludoo wrote:
Best way to remove fungus in my experience is saliva for small spots (suck on a q-tip, apply, repeat, etc.), Ponds cream (or any local substitute) for large stubborn spots. Ponds cream dissolves the fungus almost instantly, and it's easy to clean afterwards with lighter fuel, and pure acetone for the final touch.
Ammonia+hydrogen peroxide is a very dangerous and toxic mixture, and personally I'd avoid it if possible, especially since the harmless Ponds cream works great. |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Hi,
Take a look here: the tutorial shows how to clean a Biometar 80 from fungus, but the general concepts may apply to your lens, too ...
Hope this helps
Cheers _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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