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Langstrum
 Joined: 16 Feb 2014 Posts: 351
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:29 am Post subject: Kinotel Anastigmat 1.5 inch f:1.5 front element missing? |
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Langstrum wrote:
I've bought a defective Kinotel Anastigmat (D mount), but the seller just mentioned the focus ring is stuck and aperture ring is stiff. It looks like this
Today I received the lens and can't try it out since I'm waiting to get the D-mount to C-mount ring and C-mount adapter for NEX. But I just realized that the front element seems to be missing. There is zero information on this lens but from observation, the distance in front of the front element is too large, maybe it should have another glass there. I hope that someone here has this lens and help me to know if that's true or not. I thought that I may fix the problem with the stuck focus ring but I can't, some screws were damaged when I tried to unscrew them
I saw some photos taken using this lens, they're pretty sharp and it was sold for about $35 including shipping, so I decided to buy it but now I don't have much hope that it can be restored to the normal working condition. _________________
Camera: Sony A7 mark III, A6300
AF Lenses:
Canon EF 50/1.8; EF 200/2.8 L, EF 200/1.8 L, EF 300/4 L Sony E mount SEL 50/1.8 OSS, SEL 16/2.8 Fuji X mount XF 35/1.4 R
MF Lenses: Peleng MC 8/3.5, 17/2.8 Samyang 14/T3.1, 35/T1.5, TS 24/3.5 ED, 85/T1.5, Polar 85/1.4 Auto Revuenon 28/2.8; MC 50/1.4 Vega11U 50/2.8 Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (exakta mount) Auto Chinon 50/1.9 Zenitar ME1 50/1.7 Sears Auto Sears 55/1.4; Sears 135/2.8 Auto Yashinon DX 50/1.4; Tomioka 50/1.2 SMC Pentax 50/1.7; 50/1.4 Canon FD 50/1.4 S.S.C; 55/1.2 S.S.C; FD 50/1.2 L; FD 85/1.2 L; 85/1.2 S.S.C Aspherical; FD 80-200/4 L 300/2.8 S.S.C Fluorite FD 300/2.8 L FD 200/1.8 LCosina-S 50/1.2 Helios Helios 44 Chrome f/22, 44-2, 44-3, 44M-4, 44M-7 (58/2), Helios-40 85/1.5 Jupiter Jupiter-9 85/2; Jupiter-37A 135/3.5; Jupiter-21M 200/4 Nikon Ai 105/2.5 Tairs-3S 300/4.5
Voigtlander 15/4.5 Aspherical; Ultron 35/1.7
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calvin83
 Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7495 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:51 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Since the register of D mount is much shorter than C mount. You can only focus very close if you adapt a D mount lens to a C mount adapter.
P.S. I have a similar lens as paper weight. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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Langstrum
 Joined: 16 Feb 2014 Posts: 351
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:12 am Post subject: |
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Langstrum wrote:
This lens is just a bit heavier than the Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8, if it can work, it should be really good, since I found someone took photos using this D-mount lens on Sony A7
http://www.fluidr.com/photos/jore0902/sets/72157643055785484
So how can I use it on NEX body? I read that if I use D- to C-mount ring and C-mount to NEX adapter I can use the lens, but with strong vignette as in the photos.
I tried freelensing without the adapter and found that it only focus to several centimeters in front of the lens. So it means there is no missing glass and this lens is intact?
Thank you very much for your information, I only can have this kind of knowledge from here. _________________
Camera: Sony A7 mark III, A6300
AF Lenses:
Canon EF 50/1.8; EF 200/2.8 L, EF 200/1.8 L, EF 300/4 L Sony E mount SEL 50/1.8 OSS, SEL 16/2.8 Fuji X mount XF 35/1.4 R
MF Lenses: Peleng MC 8/3.5, 17/2.8 Samyang 14/T3.1, 35/T1.5, TS 24/3.5 ED, 85/T1.5, Polar 85/1.4 Auto Revuenon 28/2.8; MC 50/1.4 Vega11U 50/2.8 Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (exakta mount) Auto Chinon 50/1.9 Zenitar ME1 50/1.7 Sears Auto Sears 55/1.4; Sears 135/2.8 Auto Yashinon DX 50/1.4; Tomioka 50/1.2 SMC Pentax 50/1.7; 50/1.4 Canon FD 50/1.4 S.S.C; 55/1.2 S.S.C; FD 50/1.2 L; FD 85/1.2 L; 85/1.2 S.S.C Aspherical; FD 80-200/4 L 300/2.8 S.S.C Fluorite FD 300/2.8 L FD 200/1.8 LCosina-S 50/1.2 Helios Helios 44 Chrome f/22, 44-2, 44-3, 44M-4, 44M-7 (58/2), Helios-40 85/1.5 Jupiter Jupiter-9 85/2; Jupiter-37A 135/3.5; Jupiter-21M 200/4 Nikon Ai 105/2.5 Tairs-3S 300/4.5
Voigtlander 15/4.5 Aspherical; Ultron 35/1.7
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calvin83
 Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7495 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:37 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
You need to remove the rear part of the lens and put it into a helicoid. See here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/jore0902/sets/72157621940700989/ .
The lens may barely cover M4/3 after you remove the rear part. You will see a visible image circle on aps-c or larger sensor. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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Langstrum
 Joined: 16 Feb 2014 Posts: 351
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Langstrum wrote:
Thank you very much, now I know the trick, but maybe in a quite wasteful way, since I found a photo of this lens and it's clearly that my lens doesn't have the front element, so it can't be functional
 _________________
Camera: Sony A7 mark III, A6300
AF Lenses:
Canon EF 50/1.8; EF 200/2.8 L, EF 200/1.8 L, EF 300/4 L Sony E mount SEL 50/1.8 OSS, SEL 16/2.8 Fuji X mount XF 35/1.4 R
MF Lenses: Peleng MC 8/3.5, 17/2.8 Samyang 14/T3.1, 35/T1.5, TS 24/3.5 ED, 85/T1.5, Polar 85/1.4 Auto Revuenon 28/2.8; MC 50/1.4 Vega11U 50/2.8 Carl Zeiss Tessar 50/2.8 (exakta mount) Auto Chinon 50/1.9 Zenitar ME1 50/1.7 Sears Auto Sears 55/1.4; Sears 135/2.8 Auto Yashinon DX 50/1.4; Tomioka 50/1.2 SMC Pentax 50/1.7; 50/1.4 Canon FD 50/1.4 S.S.C; 55/1.2 S.S.C; FD 50/1.2 L; FD 85/1.2 L; 85/1.2 S.S.C Aspherical; FD 80-200/4 L 300/2.8 S.S.C Fluorite FD 300/2.8 L FD 200/1.8 LCosina-S 50/1.2 Helios Helios 44 Chrome f/22, 44-2, 44-3, 44M-4, 44M-7 (58/2), Helios-40 85/1.5 Jupiter Jupiter-9 85/2; Jupiter-37A 135/3.5; Jupiter-21M 200/4 Nikon Ai 105/2.5 Tairs-3S 300/4.5
Voigtlander 15/4.5 Aspherical; Ultron 35/1.7
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