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Kenya 1996 ... first shots from slides

 
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LucisPictor



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Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7837
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:17 pm    Post subject: Kenya 1996 ... first shots from slides Reply with quote

Hi!

I have played around a little and built with an electr. torch, a paper softbox, a tripod and the Schneider Kreuznach Componar on bellows a set-up to copy slides to digital.

It did not really work. Most of the digital shots are out-of-focus and the colours do not look like the real slides (which are really nice). Confused

Anyway, here are some shots from Mombasa, Kenya in 1996.
(Ricoh KR-10x / Rikenon 35-70 on, I think, Fujichrome)

















A bigger one:


And finally...

I thought that was very funny to find a Bayern Munich fan club in the middle of Mombasa.

I need to find a way to copy slides better. Wink
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS 50e, EOS 500, Spotmatic SPII, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;3.5/135;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: CZJ Flek 4/20; Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35; Summicron 2.0/50 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Zeiss 2.8/50; Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; MIR38 3.5/65; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65


Last edited by LucisPictor on Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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poilu



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Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 3383
Location: Greece

PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice results for a first try
look you made superb holiday there
btw what is Schneider
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peterqd



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Joined: 28 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been trying it too using a set of M42 bellows with a slide holder. It works fine with a 35mm film cam but with the 400D, whatever lens I try, I can't frame the whole image and get it in focus. I've given up for the time being. Is it because of the small sensor?
_________________
Lenses: M42 - CZJ 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 3.5/135 - Meyer/Pentacon 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 2.8/135, 4/200
Russian - J9, J21, J37A, M1v, M24m, I50-2, H44m-4 Vega12
Takumar 3.5/28, 2.0/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50(x2), 1.8/55(x2), 1.9/85, 3.5/135 - Vivitar 2.8/28
K-mount : Pentax-M 2.8/28, 1.7/50 - Tamron zooms :SP28-80, SP35-80, SP60-300, 80-210
DSLR:Canon 400D 35mm SLR: Pentax Spotmatic SP, SPII(x2), SPF, ESII, K2, ME Super, P30 - Chinon CE3 - Minolta XG-M - Praktica Nova 1B, PLC2
Rangefinder: Zorki-4, Beauty Light-o-matic III Medium Format: Yashica-Mat 124G
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Orio




Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 12691
Location: West Emilia

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 3:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:
I've been trying it too using a set of M42 bellows with a slide holder. It works fine with a 35mm film cam but with the 400D, whatever lens I try, I can't frame the whole image and get it in focus. I've given up for the time being. Is it because of the small sensor?


Yes. Compensate using a wider lens.
My Pentax bellows are optimized for 50mm lens on full frame.
I guess that if I used the 50D, I should mount a 28mm lens instead.
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soikka



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Joined: 11 Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Kenya 1996 ... first shots from slides Reply with quote

LucisPictor wrote:
Hi!

Anyway, here are some shots from Mombasa, Kenya in 1996.
(Ricoh KR-10x / Rikenon 35-70 on, I think, Fujichrome)


Nice slides.

I've tried similar kind of slide copying, and the results have been ok (not great, but usable). The same system works great with b&w negatives, but color negatives are a different story again... the colors are hard to get to match the prints.

Is that Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5?
I have the lens and I think it's a great lens. Have you used it with digital? Smile
_________________
DSLR: K20d, Ist*Ds
Film: MZ-5n, LX, MX+winder, SuperA+winder, ME Super, P30n, Spotmatic S
M28/2.8, M35/2, M135/3.5, M75-150/4, A28/2.8, A50/1.7, A70-210/4, Super-Tak 55/1.8, S-M-C Tak 85/1.8, Sigma SW2 24/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5(I), Tamron SP 80-200/2.8, Tamron SP 180/2.5 (with teleconverters 1.4x, 2x), Jupiter-9, Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5, Cosinon 40/2.5, F-1.7x AF-adapter, Olympus XA
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soikka



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Joined: 11 Jun 2008
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Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Orio wrote:

Yes. Compensate using a wider lens.
My Pentax bellows are optimized for 50mm lens on full frame.
I guess that if I used the 50D, I should mount a 28mm lens instead.


Actually in my case it's 75mm lens that worked, not wider. With the Pentax auto-bellows and it's copier at least... the 28mm lens might work, but there isn't enough "room" on the duplicator side in my bellows. I use 75-150mm zoom @ 75mm and get the whole frame copied.
_________________
DSLR: K20d, Ist*Ds
Film: MZ-5n, LX, MX+winder, SuperA+winder, ME Super, P30n, Spotmatic S
M28/2.8, M35/2, M135/3.5, M75-150/4, A28/2.8, A50/1.7, A70-210/4, Super-Tak 55/1.8, S-M-C Tak 85/1.8, Sigma SW2 24/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5(I), Tamron SP 80-200/2.8, Tamron SP 180/2.5 (with teleconverters 1.4x, 2x), Jupiter-9, Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5, Cosinon 40/2.5, F-1.7x AF-adapter, Olympus XA
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peterqd



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Joined: 28 Feb 2007
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Location: High Wycombe, UK

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

soikka wrote:
Orio wrote:

Yes. Compensate using a wider lens.
My Pentax bellows are optimized for 50mm lens on full frame.
I guess that if I used the 50D, I should mount a 28mm lens instead.


Actually in my case it's 75mm lens that worked, not wider. With the Pentax auto-bellows and it's copier at least... the 28mm lens might work, but there isn't enough "room" on the duplicator side in my bellows. I use 75-150mm zoom @ 75mm and get the whole frame copied.

That was my experience too, also with the Pentax bellows. I don't have a 75mm lens, the nearest that would fit on the bellows is the 58mm Helios 44 but it wouldn't catch the whole frame, and the rail is not long enough to use an 85mm.

I can get good results with a 50mm lens but only for part of the picture. If I move both the camera and lens along the rail to get more of the frame it becomes impossible to focus on the edges and the centre at the same time.

What software are you using for the colour correction for negs?
_________________
Lenses: M42 - CZJ 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 3.5/135 - Meyer/Pentacon 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 2.8/135, 4/200
Russian - J9, J21, J37A, M1v, M24m, I50-2, H44m-4 Vega12
Takumar 3.5/28, 2.0/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50(x2), 1.8/55(x2), 1.9/85, 3.5/135 - Vivitar 2.8/28
K-mount : Pentax-M 2.8/28, 1.7/50 - Tamron zooms :SP28-80, SP35-80, SP60-300, 80-210
DSLR:Canon 400D 35mm SLR: Pentax Spotmatic SP, SPII(x2), SPF, ESII, K2, ME Super, P30 - Chinon CE3 - Minolta XG-M - Praktica Nova 1B, PLC2
Rangefinder: Zorki-4, Beauty Light-o-matic III Medium Format: Yashica-Mat 124G
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soikka



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Joined: 11 Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peterqd wrote:


What software are you using for the colour correction for negs?


I shoot RAWs and convert the colours with adobe raw converter so that the orange mask is close to grey. Then invert in photoshop and do some manual color balance adjustments. So it's pretty slow... Does anybody know an easier way? Smile
_________________
DSLR: K20d, Ist*Ds
Film: MZ-5n, LX, MX+winder, SuperA+winder, ME Super, P30n, Spotmatic S
M28/2.8, M35/2, M135/3.5, M75-150/4, A28/2.8, A50/1.7, A70-210/4, Super-Tak 55/1.8, S-M-C Tak 85/1.8, Sigma SW2 24/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5(I), Tamron SP 80-200/2.8, Tamron SP 180/2.5 (with teleconverters 1.4x, 2x), Jupiter-9, Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5, Cosinon 40/2.5, F-1.7x AF-adapter, Olympus XA
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poilu



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Joined: 26 Aug 2007
Posts: 3383
Location: Greece

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

soikka wrote:
I shoot RAWs and convert the colours with adobe raw converter so that the orange mask is close to grey. Then invert in photoshop and do some manual color balance adjustments. So it's pretty slow... Does anybody know an easier way?

you can invert and correct colors in raw converter
go to [tone curve] dialog, select [point] and inverse the curve
then you can use white balance tool
I had to tune hue for certain colors with a IT8 card
save as new settings then you can apply to a batch of image very quickly with [apply preset]
be sure to use a recent version of camera raw, now it is 4.6
I also try to make negative profile with dng profile editor
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soikka



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Joined: 11 Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Due to this thread I got carried away and posted couple of my slide copier results in here: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic,p,96967.html#96967

Could some one please send a 100% crop of some results you get with a slide copier? My focusing might be a bit of in my examples Sad
_________________
DSLR: K20d, Ist*Ds
Film: MZ-5n, LX, MX+winder, SuperA+winder, ME Super, P30n, Spotmatic S
M28/2.8, M35/2, M135/3.5, M75-150/4, A28/2.8, A50/1.7, A70-210/4, Super-Tak 55/1.8, S-M-C Tak 85/1.8, Sigma SW2 24/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5(I), Tamron SP 80-200/2.8, Tamron SP 180/2.5 (with teleconverters 1.4x, 2x), Jupiter-9, Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5, Cosinon 40/2.5, F-1.7x AF-adapter, Olympus XA
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soikka



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Joined: 11 Jun 2008
Posts: 52
Location: Finland

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

poilu wrote:
soikka wrote:
I shoot RAWs and convert the colours with adobe raw converter so that the orange mask is close to grey. Then invert in photoshop and do some manual color balance adjustments. So it's pretty slow... Does anybody know an easier way?

you can invert and correct colors in raw converter
go to [tone curve] dialog, select [point] and inverse the curve
then you can use white balance tool
I had to tune hue for certain colors with a IT8 card
save as new settings then you can apply to a batch of image very quickly with [apply preset]
be sure to use a recent version of camera raw, now it is 4.6
I also try to make negative profile with dng profile editor


Great! thanks for the useful info!
_________________
DSLR: K20d, Ist*Ds
Film: MZ-5n, LX, MX+winder, SuperA+winder, ME Super, P30n, Spotmatic S
M28/2.8, M35/2, M135/3.5, M75-150/4, A28/2.8, A50/1.7, A70-210/4, Super-Tak 55/1.8, S-M-C Tak 85/1.8, Sigma SW2 24/2.8, Tamron SP 90/2.5(I), Tamron SP 80-200/2.8, Tamron SP 180/2.5 (with teleconverters 1.4x, 2x), Jupiter-9, Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5, Cosinon 40/2.5, F-1.7x AF-adapter, Olympus XA
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LucisPictor



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Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7837
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)

PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Kenya 1996 ... first shots from slides Reply with quote

soikka wrote:
Is that Rikenon XR 35-70/3.5?
I have the lens and I think it's a great lens. Have you used it with digital? Smile


Yes, I have used it on my 350D, it's OK, but it's not the constant f3.5 lens, it's its cheaper brother the 3.4-4.5/35-70. That was the first lens I have ever bought and thus I will never sell it.


poilu wrote:
btw what is Schneider


Schneider-Kreuznach, a German lens manufacturer.
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS 50e, EOS 500, Spotmatic SPII, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;3.5/135;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: CZJ Flek 4/20; Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35; Summicron 2.0/50 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Zeiss 2.8/50; Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; MIR38 3.5/65; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65
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