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JCI-II Stickers?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 7:27 pm    Post subject: JCI-II Stickers? Reply with quote

I recently bought a mint condition Nikkkormat FT-2, and the camera is almost completely flawless.
The previous owner saw fit to remove the inspection sticker from the penta-prism with a razor knife.
In doing so, the chrome got deeply gouged.

Kind of playing with ideas about replacing the sticker, and concealing/protecting the gouged chrome.
I will have to go through the lens pile and find a sticker in good shape.

Looking for suggestions on adhesives for a used sticker.
I sort of suspect that the stickers that went on camera bodies were heat applied- every chromed SLR I've seen with the inspection sticker removed has been marked by removal.

Any suggestions/experience more than welcome on this.
It may seem a bit anal, but that visible gouge really gets to me...

-D.S.


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=jcii+sticker


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

visualopsins wrote:
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=jcii+sticker


HOW MUCH for an old inspection sticker??? Shocked

I throw those things in the bin Rolling Eyes

EDIT: Oh, wait, that's from one Romanian seller...


PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2022 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.google.com/search?q=metal+gouge+filler


PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Assuming you find a used sticker, for adhesive, I'd start with something innocuous and see if it doesn't work, then move up from there. So I'd start with regular old white Elmer's or "school glue". Aliphatic resin, to be more specific.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rubber cement. Elmer's isn't water proof.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 3:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

remove a sticker using 100% alcohol or paintbrush cleaner, wash it thoroughly and dry it. I'd use double sided tape to stick it down


PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2022 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

philslizzy wrote:
remove a sticker using 100% alcohol or paintbrush cleaner, wash it thoroughly and dry it. I'd use double sided tape to stick it down


Works for me too, the alcohol.

But if the sticker has been stuck on black anodised aluminium for several decades, it will leave a visible mark no matter what you try Sad

Hence I prefer these stickers removed as soon as possible, certainly after the warranty expires...

EDIT: as far as new adhesive is concerned, if you can get hold of it then acrylic transfer tape should be good; that's like double-sided acrylic adhesive tape, but it omits the PET carrier tape so you are only left with the acrylic adhesive layer.


PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

visualopsins wrote:
Rubber cement. Elmer's isn't water proof.


Neither are cameras, far as that goes. And once Elmers has fully dried, it is fairly resistant to exposure to moisture. I build guitars with this stiuff, and they seem to hold together okay in humid environments.


PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2022 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cooltouch wrote:
visualopsins wrote:
Rubber cement. Elmer's isn't water proof.


Neither are cameras, far as that goes. And once Elmers has fully dried, it is fairly resistant to exposure to moisture. I build guitars with this stiuff, and they seem to hold together okay in humid environments.


I'm talking about the white glue. My toy sailboats quickly fell apart when put into water...

The yellow stuff may be better. YMMV


PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I build with Titebond, which is a yellow glue, but there are lots of builders who build with white glue. It's all aliphatic resin. Two critical points to keep in mind with this glue -- it must be fresh (Titebond has a date code), and the wood pieces should be slightly roughed up and clamped securely until dry. If they aren't clamped, they don't get that good bond.


PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2022 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RokkorDoctor wrote:


EDIT: as far as new adhesive is concerned, if you can get hold of it then acrylic transfer tape should be good; that's like double-sided acrylic adhesive tape, but it omits the PET carrier tape so you are only left with the acrylic adhesive layer.


The acrylic transfer stuff looks like a fine idea.
Like 1 small

-D.S.


PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2022 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D.S.,

Your obsession is infectious; I just got a Minolta Rokkor-TC 135mm f/4 macro bellows lens, and have decided to leave the JCI-II sticker on for now (because it stiil looks pristine) Wink


PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2022 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If original the sticker will tell you the year and month of inspection first digit year second month, although there are twelve months, so I guess they are batch numbers. Pretty sure the first digit corresponds to year though. So production was in the period before the approximate inspection time. It is matching pretty well with my Vivitar serial numbers which have year and month in the third and fourth digit (the manufacturer code ones that is).


PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2022 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D1N0 wrote:
If original the sticker will tell you the year and month of inspection first digit year second month, although there are twelve months, so I guess they are batch numbers. Pretty sure the first digit corresponds to year though. So production was in the period before the approximate inspection time. It is matching pretty well with my Vivitar serial numbers which have year and month in the third and fourth digit (the manufacturer code ones that is).


Hmm...

Not sure I follow. The sticker has the following on it:

JCII
PASSED
JMDC

Does this indicate any year/month?

EDIT: some additional info: [ link removed ]
EDIT: removed link; a bit to much controversial ranting in there...


PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2022 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From what I've seen, removal from gloss black surfaces seems to be the least damaging.
I read the link provided before it was removed.
It went off topic fairly fast, and the author did not go as far as the numerical codes.

I could put up with the adhesive spots on the chrome of the FT-2 if that was all it is.
The gouged finish is just some what irksome to me...



-D.S.