Home

Please support mflenses.com if you need any graphic related work order it from us, click on above banner to order!
SearchSearch MemberlistMemberlist RegisterRegister ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

Issues with Medium Format
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Film SLR / TLR Cameras
View previous topic :: View next topic  


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Abbazz wrote:
peterqd wrote:
The fun's coming back!


Wait until you try one of these big 6x9 Fuji rangefinder cameras with a 50mm superwide (like a 21mm lens on a 35mm camera) Twisted Evil

Cheers!

Abbazz


I'm getting there, give me time! Smile Thanks for the tip about Fuji though. I started looking at Super Ikonta C (also 6x9), but maybe Ebay's not the best place to find one in decent condition.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
peterqd wrote:
I started looking at Super Ikonta C (also 6x9), but maybe Ebay's not the best place to find one in decent condition.


I'd rather go for a 645 and rather an Ikonta than a Super Ikonta. 645 because the film flatness problems of a 69 folder are much worse than those of a 645, the size of a 645 is much more convenient (it will fit a shirt pocket if need be), you'll get 16 frames per roll instead of 8, and the IQ isn't that much lower. An Ikonta because the price isn't quite as inflated as that of a Super Ikonta, and scale focusing is OK with some practice. Start with a 645 Ikonta A, and move up to a 69 Super Ikonta C later on - if you still feel inclined.

See my Ikonta A page at http://galactinus.net/vilva/retro/ikonta_a.html . This is an MF camera you can carry with you all the time, just in case. It is almost as pocketable as any digicam and still an MF camera. Besides, it is fun to see the jaws drop when you draw it out of your pocket, open it, take a shot, close and pocket it - as nonchalantly as you ever can manage Smile

At the 6x9 frame size, a Zeiss Ikon Cocarette has less problems with film flatness than an Ikonta, but you'd have to use scale focusing. See http://galactinus.net/vilva/retro/cocarette.html

Veijo


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
vilva wrote:
peterqd wrote:
I started looking at Super Ikonta C (also 6x9), but maybe Ebay's not the best place to find one in decent condition.


I'd rather go for a 645 and rather an Ikonta than a Super Ikonta. 645 because the film flatness problems of a 69 folder are much worse than those of a 645, the size of a 645 is much more convenient (it will fit a shirt pocket if need be), you'll get 16 frames per roll instead of 8, and the IQ isn't that much lower. An Ikonta because the price isn't quite as inflated as that of a Super Ikonta, and scale focusing is OK with some practice. Start with a 645 Ikonta A, and move up to a 69 Super Ikonta C later on - if you still feel inclined.

See my Ikonta A page at http://galactinus.net/vilva/retro/ikonta_a.html . This is an MF camera you can carry with you all the time, just in case. It is almost as pocketable as any digicam and still an MF camera. Besides, it is fun to see the jaws drop when you draw it out of your pocket, open it, take a shot, close and pocket it - as nonchalantly as you ever can manage Smile

At the 6x9 frame size, a Zeiss Ikon Cocarette has less problems with film flatness than an Ikonta, but you'd have to use scale focusing. See http://galactinus.net/vilva/retro/cocarette.html

Veijo


Thank you very much for this advice and information Veijo, I highly respect your opinion and I've bookmarked your page. I remember you mentioning about film flatness and the Ikontas before. For the time being I'm finding out about MF with a Yashica-Mat 124G and I won't go any further for a while. So far I've shot only 3 rolls and I haven't had a chance to do any developing. Hopefully this evening... Smile


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I saw a very good condition Super Ikonta a couple of weeks ago, exactly the same model as my father's, only looking much newer, 6x6 version however.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
niblue wrote:
it's only a matter of time until I get myself a Mamiya C220 or C330


I'd really like a Mamiya too eventually, with their interchangeable lenses and so functional appearance. But they're much more expensive than I wanted to pay at the moment. The Yashica seemed a sensible camera to start out with MF. It's a bit battered, but it's clean and in good working order and, above all, it went for a low price! Smile And it's a head-turner too - several people asked me about it when I was taking pictures in Paris and Holland.

Last edited by peterqd on Sat Oct 27, 2007 7:56 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
My medium format kit comprises a Yashica 635 with the WA and telephoto auxiliary lenses and a Pentacon Six TL + Flek 4/50, Biometars 2.8/80 & 120 and Sonnar 2.8/180.

The 635 was the camera that started me on medium format and I got the P6 later on when I found that I wanted a bit more flexibility.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
bob955i wrote:
a Pentacon Six TL + Flek 4/50, Biometars 2.8/80 & 120 and Sonnar 2.8/180.


Bob are you able to wind film on the P6 without making it overlap?
If so, please give us mortals the secret - I have two P6s, and both of them are pestered with the dreaded defect - which makes me think that perhaps I am the problem.


PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes - I follow the instructions by Ron Spillman on here to the letter:

http://www.pentaconsix.com/spacing.htm

Especially the part about tensioning the film while loading - I do this with my 635 too and to date I've never had any spacing issues with that camera either. The 635 doesn't have the same film advance reputation as the P6 but I have read isolated reports from some 635 owners of occasional spacing problems.

There's also a link on that page to Rolf Dieter Baier's instructions as well should the Spillman method not work.

I also made a loading instruction card based on the Spillman method that I keep in the bag as a reminder.


PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
niblue wrote:
however it's only a matter of time until I get myself a Mamiya C220 or C330.


If you buy a Mamiya TLR, there is one lens that you have to acquire, it's the 105/305 D or DS. These are the latest versions of this lens and are complete redesigns of the previous model. Their optical formula is the same as the classic Voigländer Heliar lens, a 5 element 3 group design, delivering the smoothest bokeh available on a 6x6 camera.

Here are links to some beautiful pictures taken with this lens:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=234946390&size=o

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=290506562&size=l

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=212561760&size=o

Cheers!

Abbazz


PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
bob955i wrote:
Yes - I follow the instructions by Ron Spillman on here to the letter:

http://www.pentaconsix.com/spacing.htm

Especially the part about tensioning the film while loading - I do this with my 635 too and to date I've never had any spacing issues with that camera either. The 635 doesn't have the same film advance reputation as the P6 but I have read isolated reports from some 635 owners of occasional spacing problems.

There's also a link on that page to Rolf Dieter Baier's instructions as well should the Spillman method not work.

I also made a loading instruction card based on the Spillman method that I keep in the bag as a reminder.


A few questions:

1) the film comes with an end that is folded onto itself. Do you open the fold and insert the film in the takeup spool unfolded, or do you keep the fold and insert it folded?

2) this part of the instructions:

Quote:
Rock the lever back and forth through about 45 degrees to advance the film


I was never able to follow it, because when I rock the lever, it does not come back, and the only thing that is possible to do, is to advance it fully then push shutter button, only then you can set it back. Is there a trick I should to to follow this part of the instructions?

3) what does it mean

Quote:
Don’t press the release while lever is in advanced position.


I don't understand

Thanks!


PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
@ Orio:

To answer your three questions.

1. I've always opened the fold and inserted the leader unfolded as it makes things more secure once you start to wind on. Unlike 35mm which has sprocket holes for a secure wind-on, 120 relies completely on the leader being correctly inserted into the wind-on spool.

2. You need to wind the lever to maximum travel until it stops and you hear the click of the shutter being cocked - only then will you be able to rock the lever back and forth. If you don't fully wind the lever, the ratchet will lock and prevent it from coming back - this is what I suspect is happening with you.

3. All you are doing here is advancing the film to the first frame, so the sequence is; advance film, allow lever to return (Don't let it snap back on it's own.) THEN press shutter release. Do that three times to take you to the first frame.

HTH. Smile
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Film SLR / TLR Cameras
Page 1 of 1