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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 11:07 am Post subject: Is this epoxy resin? |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Hi. Can anyone tell if this is epoxy resin that someone has used to glue a filter ring into the lens? It's an old Nokton rangefinder lens so I'm guessing it's pretty old glue too whatever it is. If it is, how do you think is the safest way to remove it without damaging the lens? Thanks.
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Ramon
Joined: 01 May 2007 Posts: 71 Location: Kent, UK
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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Ramon wrote:
It certainly looks like it, I don't believe there is a solvent that will touch it.
The good thing is that it probably isn't very well adhered to the shiny chrome surface of the lens.
I would suggest cutting the filter ring with a pair of wire cutters, peel off the ring and then break the epoxy resin off with a small pair of pliers, once you get a start I think it will come away cleanly without damaging the lens.
Good Luck |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16541 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Honestly? I would leave it. That stuff is strong and you may damage the lens... _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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zanxion72
Joined: 11 Dec 2012 Posts: 145 Location: Athens, Greece
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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zanxion72 wrote:
Use thinner with s brush. Put it on a surface like in the photo and start brushing it with a brush dipped in thinner. No rush if you love that lens. _________________ http://photographiagr.wordpress.com/
Come see me in Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/nkarytianos/ |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
zanxion72 wrote: |
Use thinner with s brush. Put it on a surface like in the photo and start brushing it with a brush dipped in thinner. No rush if you love that lens. |
What type of thinner? I've never used anything like that before except acetone, which didn't touch it.
I really need to get it off as I need to open the lens front to access the elements to repai separation of the elements. |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Ramon wrote: |
It certainly looks like it, I don't believe there is a solvent that will touch it.
The good thing is that it probably isn't very well adhered to the shiny chrome surface of the lens.
I would suggest cutting the filter ring with a pair of wire cutters, peel off the ring and then break the epoxy resin off with a small pair of pliers, once you get a start I think it will come away cleanly without damaging the lens.
Good Luck |
That sounds scary, I don't want to scratch the lens or bend the metal 😩 |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
Honestly? I would leave it. That stuff is strong and you may damage the lens... |
I need to get it off so I can repair the glass inside |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
See why I need to get in? 😋
Separation 😩
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Pete
Joined: 01 Feb 2011 Posts: 240 Location: Denver, San Jose
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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Pete wrote:
We have a product in USA called 'GOOF OFF". There are a couple of similar products but this one is the best. I use it for removing the leather from camera bodies because it dissolves the glue but does not damage other parts. I like the idea of cutting the filter ring off then maybe soak the front in a small pan of GOOF OFF. Good luck
Pete _________________ "As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly!!!"
www.pete.3rdtrick.com |
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Roka
Joined: 18 Mar 2016 Posts: 133 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Expire: 2017-04-07
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:33 pm Post subject: |
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Roka wrote:
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. _________________
Camera
Fujifilm X-T20
Lenses
Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 Macro (1:1)
Canon FD 200mm f/4
Canon FD 300mm f/5.6
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
Do you think the heat gun might crack the glass though? |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Pete wrote: |
We have a product in USA called 'GOOF OFF". There are a couple of similar products but this one is the best. I use it for removing the leather from camera bodies because it dissolves the glue but does not damage other parts. I like the idea of cutting the filter ring off then maybe soak the front in a small pan of GOOF OFF. Good luck
Pete |
I'm in uk so will be expensive and dodgy to import I would think. But I will try it as a last resort maybe. Thanks |
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Pete
Joined: 01 Feb 2011 Posts: 240 Location: Denver, San Jose
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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Pete wrote:
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Pete wrote: |
We have a product in USA called 'GOOF OFF". There are a couple of similar products but this one is the best. I use it for removing the leather from camera bodies because it dissolves the glue but does not damage other parts. I like the idea of cutting the filter ring off then maybe soak the front in a small pan of GOOF OFF. Good luck
Pete |
I'm in uk so will be expensive and dodgy to import I would think. But I will try it as a last resort maybe. Thanks |
It contains acetone and xylene. You probably have something similar in UK.
I just mixed up some epoxy. It seems to cut it but I will try again tomorrow after it fully cures.
Pete _________________ "As God is my witness, I thought turkeys could fly!!!"
www.pete.3rdtrick.com |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16541 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
Do you think the heat gun might crack the glass though? |
NEVER EVER use a heat gun!!! _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10530 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:30 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
That looks permanent.
You know epoxy look & feel, yes? Afaik unless epoxy formula has reversal built-in, there is no solvent that would not also destroy the parts. For example there are epoxies that un-harden on exposure to UV, others with special agents.
With care the filter & epoxy could be ground away from the lens using archaeology techniques, i.e., dental tools, watchmaker's tools, etc.. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:49 am Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Pete wrote: |
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Pete wrote: |
We have a product in USA called 'GOOF OFF". There are a couple of similar products but this one is the best. I use it for removing the leather from camera bodies because it dissolves the glue but does not damage other parts. I like the idea of cutting the filter ring off then maybe soak the front in a small pan of GOOF OFF. Good luck
Pete |
I'm in uk so will be expensive and dodgy to import I would think. But I will try it as a last resort maybe. Thanks |
It contains acetone and xylene. You probably have something similar in UK.
I just mixed up some epoxy. It seems to cut it but I will try again tomorrow after it fully cures.
Pete |
Thanks, let me know how it goes with the dryer epoxy |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 8:50 am Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
I'm not so sure that it will be do easy to clip the ring off as it quite a thick metal ring. |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16541 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:33 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Am I correct that it is not about using this lens, but rather
raising its resale value? Just an impression I'm getting _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:55 am Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
Am I correct that it is not about using this lens, but rather
raising its resale value? Just an impression I'm getting |
Haha no. I want to use it, but I want to see if I can improve its condition before I invest in an expensive rf-m43 adapter.
Besides, even if I did want to sell it, i don't think I'd get much for it considering how much I'd messed about with it. Id have to say I'd opened it and oiled it and so on, and nobody would want it. It's already been opened, I can tell, as there is dirt inside it, and since I didn't pay much for it, I see it as a nice little project for myself. I'm curious to see how it performs on my digital camera.
That's not to say I won't sell it down the line if I do t use it or can't fix it 😊 |
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VictoriaMac
Joined: 22 Apr 2016 Posts: 17 Location: Scotland
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:39 pm Post subject: |
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VictoriaMac wrote:
Ok so I bought some wire cutters, gave it a firm tug and the whole lot popped off including the resin! Haha! Thanks fir all your help. Next stage ... Opening lens 😧 |
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Roka
Joined: 18 Mar 2016 Posts: 133 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Expire: 2017-04-07
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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Roka wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
Do you think the heat gun might crack the glass though? |
NEVER EVER use a heat gun!!! |
Why not? Damage to the rest of the lens? Just curious. _________________
Camera
Fujifilm X-T20
Lenses
Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 Macro (1:1)
Canon FD 200mm f/4
Canon FD 300mm f/5.6
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Roka
Joined: 18 Mar 2016 Posts: 133 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Expire: 2017-04-07
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Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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Roka wrote:
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
Do you think the heat gun might crack the glass though? |
I suppose it's possible. I think any of the "mechanical" solutions you're getting would be in the "I'm willing to destroy the lens trying to get the filter off" category. Another thought that crossed my mind was using a fine cutting wheel on a Dremel Tool. You might be able to control it well enough to cut through the filter ring without damaging the lens. Again, I'd only try that if I were willing to lose the lens in the process which is a > 0% chance. _________________
Camera
Fujifilm X-T20
Lenses
Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 Macro (1:1)
Canon FD 200mm f/4
Canon FD 300mm f/5.6
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10530 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 12:06 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Roka wrote: |
kds315* wrote: |
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
Do you think the heat gun might crack the glass though? |
NEVER EVER use a heat gun!!! |
Why not? Damage to the rest of the lens? Just curious. |
Crystal lattice is easy to fracture with too fast, or uneven, thermal expansion/contraction. Also the differing metal & silicon coefficients of expansion...
There is a huge difference to pointing a heat gun at a tiny hole in a mask covering a lens except for one tiny screw head, and pointing a heat gun at a whole lens. The heat gets applied uneven; that side expands faster. The glass and metal expand at different rates. If the glass doesn't pop from too fast uneven heating, it will pop from trying to squeeze out of a constricted space... _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7785 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 9:50 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
If I need to use heat to loosen a tiny screw I use the pointed tip of an electronics soldering iron on the screw head. Works a treat, and no excess heat to damage anything else or melt the grease. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Roka
Joined: 18 Mar 2016 Posts: 133 Location: Phoenix, AZ
Expire: 2017-04-07
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Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2016 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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Roka wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
Roka wrote: |
kds315* wrote: |
VictoriaMac wrote: |
Roka wrote: |
Not to sound negative but I doubt you'll be able to remove it any way other than mechanical methods such as cutting/chipping. I'd be very afraid of lens damage. If it were me I think I'd try a heat gun. Depending on the epoxy they used it might work. But there's a reason they make boats out of the stuff - it's designed to last forever. |
Do you think the heat gun might crack the glass though? |
NEVER EVER use a heat gun!!! |
Why not? Damage to the rest of the lens? Just curious. |
Crystal lattice is easy to fracture with too fast, or uneven, thermal expansion/contraction. Also the differing metal & silicon coefficients of expansion...
There is a huge difference to pointing a heat gun at a tiny hole in a mask covering a lens except for one tiny screw head, and pointing a heat gun at a whole lens. The heat gets applied uneven; that side expands faster. The glass and metal expand at different rates. If the glass doesn't pop from too fast uneven heating, it will pop from trying to squeeze out of a constricted space... |
Good point - makes a lot of sense! _________________
Camera
Fujifilm X-T20
Lenses
Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 Macro (1:1)
Canon FD 200mm f/4
Canon FD 300mm f/5.6
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