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mark fewtrell
Joined: 26 May 2015 Posts: 70 Location: herefordshire
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Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:08 pm Post subject: How to Macro wide-angle |
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mark fewtrell wrote:
This was taken with Fuji SL1000 bridge camera in super macro mode. Im new to macro. I want to take butterfly pictures with a similar style. The wider angle look but shallower and the focal point in this case a hoverfly with that look. The question is how using an DSLR. The butterfly is unlikely to allow you within a meter. So what lens set up would one use to get the above. Im not knew to photography just trying to nail a lens to start on this kind of look. Thanks. |
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Nordentro
Joined: 24 Jun 2010 Posts: 4713 Location: Lillehammer, Norway
Expire: 2015-01-29
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Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Nordentro wrote:
Venus optica released a 15mm macro lens called Laowa 15mm f/4
http://www.dpreview.com/articles/2386312472/venus-optics-laowa-15mm-f4-worlds-widest-macro-lens _________________ Lars | Manuellfokus.no |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7554 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 4:03 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
You may try a wide angle lens with extension tubes before buying a dedicated macro lens. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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mark fewtrell
Joined: 26 May 2015 Posts: 70 Location: herefordshire
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Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:54 am Post subject: |
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mark fewtrell wrote:
Ive a nikon 24mm 2.8 AF. Can i stay at a meter and get this look with extension tubes only. |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 902 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 8:31 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
mark fewtrell wrote: |
Ive a nikon 24mm 2.8 AF. Can i stay at a meter and get this look with extension tubes only. |
It doesn't matter what lens you try you'll never get a wide angle environment close up from 1m.
Assuming 90° FOV is wide enough for you, and you have a 1" long subject. To get your subject to take up 1/4 of your FOV your lens must be within 2" of the subject.
As you reduce the FOV you can get further back, to reach a similar subject size for around 1m you need a FOV of the order of 5-6°.
If your going to get the wide angle close ups you're after you will need mcuh improved stalking skills (probably a case of set up the camera & wait for the subject).
If these shots were easy I'm sure we'd all be taking them |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16544 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 8:36 am Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Truer words have hardly ever been spoken!
Mark: I took the liberty to make this "angelic" question a more earthly one - "angle" _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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mark fewtrell
Joined: 26 May 2015 Posts: 70 Location: herefordshire
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Posted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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mark fewtrell wrote:
I thought the physics unlikely. As for the angels let alone the angles a pin is the only way too stalk a butterfly and this I'll not do. And to you then thanks and adieu. |
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duckrider
Joined: 11 Dec 2013 Posts: 437 Location: Germany
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Posted: Thu Aug 06, 2015 3:01 am Post subject: |
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duckrider wrote:
Pros use to take butterfly pictures in the very early morning time, when the insect still is not that moveable and let them get much closer than later at the day. Makro seems to be an easy object, because everthing looks interesting at close and very close sight. But it's a hard job to get impressing view of the subject.
Guess why I don't post pictures here. _________________ T*homas
(from the origin land of Zeiss, an obligation )
Zeiss ZF 3.5/18, 2.8/25, 2.0/35, 2/50macro, 1.4/50, 1.4/85, 2/100macro
Nikon Df, F2AS, F2A, F3/T, FM
ALPA 11Si, Angulon 2,8/35 ; Xenar 1,9/50 ; Tele-Tessar 4/200
Leica R3 SAFARI Safari Lenses 2.8/28 ; 2/50 ; 4/180
Rolleiflex SL 350 , Zeiss 2,8/16 ; 4/18 ; 2,8/25 ; 2,8/35 ; 1,4/35 ; 1,8/50 ; 2,8/85 ; 1,4/85 ; 4/135 ; 4/200
Leica M9-P, Leica M4-2, Tri-Elmar "Wate", Distagon 2,8/21, Biogon 2,8/28, Biogon 2/35, Planar 2/50, Tessar 4/85, M-Elmar 50mm, Summicron 90
Sony alpha 7r & adapters for all lenses above |
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buerokratiehasser
Joined: 12 Jun 2011 Posts: 470
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Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 7:40 am Post subject: |
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buerokratiehasser wrote:
Well, you can either use a tele macro 180, maybe tilted to fake the wide angle view (the flowers behind the insect get "over" it in the picture) or you will have to use a wideangle and get close.
What's the problem with getting close - it's how you shoot macro. Maybe a PROTIPP, bugs are optimised to detect rapid movements. They are not smart enough to see you when you move extremly slowly. This is also how to smash flies and gnats. Slowly get hand in place then thwack as fast as you can. |
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tb_a
Joined: 26 Jan 2010 Posts: 3678 Location: Austria
Expire: 2019-08-28
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Posted: Fri Aug 07, 2015 8:46 am Post subject: |
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tb_a wrote:
duckrider wrote: |
Pros use to take butterfly pictures in the very early morning time, when the insect still is not that moveable and let them get much closer than later at the day. Makro seems to be an easy object, because everthing looks interesting at close and very close sight. But it's a hard job to get impressing view of the subject.
Guess why I don't post pictures here. |
You don't like to stand up early in the morning?
BTW, also a very common trick: Catch the insect and put it into the freezer before shooting....
Not my style but often seen from others.
From my point of view the most important factor is the light. Therefore for Insects I prefer to use a ring flash as shown in this example:
Focus length 200mm for distance reasons (incl. Minolta close-up lens no. 2). _________________ Thomas Bernardy
Manual focus lenses mainly from Minolta, Pentax, Voigtlaender, Leitz, Topcon and from Russia (too many to be listed here). |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
Very good catch, Thomas! _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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tb_a
Joined: 26 Jan 2010 Posts: 3678 Location: Austria
Expire: 2019-08-28
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Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2015 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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tb_a wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
Very good catch, Thomas! |
Thank you, Gerald. _________________ Thomas Bernardy
Manual focus lenses mainly from Minolta, Pentax, Voigtlaender, Leitz, Topcon and from Russia (too many to be listed here). |
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