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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 4457
Location: Anacortes Washington
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 Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:22 am Post subject: |
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Hello
I have been soooo busy not much time to look at forum or respond to posts. I did just see this post and want to add two things to stop fungus growing. This will kill it but not remove it. Ok, so put the lens in a zip bag (airtight) and into the freezer. Some types of exotic fungus will survive short freezing. None of the lens destroying fungus will survive a week in the freezer. Also UV is your friend to kill fungus. Freezer and Sunlight. Now some will say oh the freezer will ruin the grease in the helli. Well if in fact that happens it is very repairable. I have never had a problem and have frozen half a dozen lenses over the years. Remember this is a stop growth solution not a remove one.
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fotomachi
Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Posts: 268
Location: Belgica
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| Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 7:27 am Post subject: |
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I'm not a specialist in lens fungus, but if I try hard to bring back my traumatic recollections from high school, I'd say that UV should be a better option than freezing. By freezing, you can kill micro-organisms but not necessarily their germs, while UV kills both.
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 10443
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:21 am Post subject: |
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UV kills fungus that's right. The problem is that you need quite a considerable dosis and the lens elements often prevent UV light from getting into the lens.
To be really on the safe side, you need to disassemble the lens and clean the elements - that is the bad news.
Because sometimes you cannot put two elements apart. Have you ever tried to get in between the two front elements of the Kaleinar 2.8/100? I did and it seems to be impossible without breaking the lens, since these elements seem to be glued together inside a tube. I was able to remove the fungus from this lens (it is not difficult to disassemble and re-assemle it correctly which is an even more important aspect!) apart from the filaments that are visible the internal edge of front element. So I store the lens in a plastic box with dehumidifiying packets and only take it out if I want to use it. And even then I do not carry the lens around in the same bag as my other lenses...
That's OK, it does work, it is just some more hassle than with a clean lens, so I do not use the Kaleinar as often as I would like to, which is a pity for this is such a great piece of glass.
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fotomachi
Joined: 02 Feb 2008
Posts: 268
Location: Belgica
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| Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Perhaps sterilization of the lens is an option...  If you want to grow mushrooms, you first have to sterilize all your equipment in a pressure cooker. What would it to do your lens?
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27557
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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I found fungus close to nuclear reactor so to kill with UV kind of fun. If keep your collection in dry 35-50% humidity environment without caps you will never get fungus. If you have already in this environment it will stop growing.
Fungus can be survive almost everything except mechanical removal.Mechanical removal can be done with any material what is attack perfectly live protein and you remove dead fungus with soft clothes.
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27557
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10, 2008 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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Described as "dust inside" sold as is for repair
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008
Posts: 1159
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:41 am Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | | I use 50% ammonia and 50% hidrogen-peroxid this liquid remove all protein successfully. It smelly as well |
Any less hard to get chemical that one can use instead of hidrogen-peroxid? There is afaik, one place in sweden that sell it. And thats 400km away. :p
Or are you guys using some lowpercentage mixture?
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Last edited by zewrak on Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:51 am; edited 1 time in total |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008
Posts: 1159
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:43 am Post subject: |
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| Attila wrote: | I found fungus close to nuclear reactor so to kill with UV kind of fun. If keep your collection in dry 35-50% humidity environment without caps you will never get fungus. If you have already in this environment it will stop growing.
Fungus can be survive almost everything except mechanical removal.Mechanical removal can be done with any material what is attack perfectly live protein and you remove dead fungus with soft clothes. |
I guess it would depend on the grade of UV? I think that with UV-C you should be able to kill it? I mean, it could kill people.  I think UV-C are rather hard and expensive to get though.  UV-B is strong enough to damage your skin though. UV-A is nonharmful (except for your eyes perhaps). UV-C I think is used for pools and stuff to kill bacteria etc in water.
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pentaxman
Joined: 11 Oct 2008
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 3:44 am Post subject: |
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| zewrak wrote: | | Attila wrote: | | I use 50% ammonia and 50% hidrogen-peroxid this liquid remove all protein successfully. It smelly as well |
Any less hard to get chemical that one can use instead of hidrogen-peroxid? There is afaik, one place in sweden that sell it. And thats 400km away. :p
Or are you guys using some lowpercentage mixture? |
MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) works really well. It is available from paint stores. It is paint remover. It dissolves fungus really well. Just be careful not to get it on paint or plastic, it will dissolve those also. |
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mattan
Joined: 26 Nov 2008
Posts: 5
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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This is my Helios auto tele converter 2x that I just got on ebay for 10€.
It seems to have a bad case of fungus  , what do you think? Doesn't seem to had to pic it apart and clean it. I think I'll do the freezer thing first, then pick it apart and clean the lens, sould I think of something special? I want to use this with most of my manual lenses but don`t want to risk geting fungus on the rest. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27557
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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Fungus is not spread if you store your lenses right.
You can clean it easily I guess.
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Sevo
Joined: 22 Aug 2008
Posts: 618
Location: Frankfurt, Germany
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| Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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That is condensation stippling - at some time, damp air condensated on the cold lens surface, and redistributed the existing dirt layer into that driplet pattern. The dirt may of course contain fungus, but more often it does not, so it is certainly worth while to make a cleaning attempt.
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mattan
Joined: 26 Nov 2008
Posts: 5
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| Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:49 pm Post subject: |
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Cleaned it without any problem, came right off. Put it in the freezer just in case...
Thanks for the help |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008
Posts: 487
Location: Toulouse, France
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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Hello,
| zewrak wrote: | | Attila wrote: | | I use 50% ammonia and 50% hidrogen-peroxid this liquid remove all protein successfully. It smelly as well |
Any less hard to get chemical that one can use instead of hidrogen-peroxid? There is afaik, one place in sweden that sell it. And thats 400km away. :p
Or are you guys using some lowpercentage mixture? |
Why don't you give a try to cold cream ? I just cleaned some fungus traces from my Boyer Saphir this way ...
Best regards
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 27557
Location: Budapest,Hungary
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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I think fungus a very strong organism hard to kill successfully even if seems not there anymore. Strong chemical made it's body to liquid shape and no chance to survive. I saw fungus in very high radioactivity at Nuclear Power Plant where I did work before.
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Folder cameras: Konishiroku Pearl, Bessa RF Heliar,Bessa I Color-Skopar,Ercona II Tessar,Franka III Schneider-Kreuznach Radionar
[color=black][b]35mm rangefinderKonica III,Bessa L,Yashica Electro GN,Canonette QL 17
35mm SLRKonica FM,Konica FP,Konica FT-1,Konica FC-1,Konica TC4,Nikon FA,Exakta VarexIIa,Fujica ST801
Carl Zeiss Jena:Flektogon 2.8/20mm,4/25mm,2.4/35,2.8/65mm,4.5/4cm Tessar, 8/500mm Fernobjektiv
Pancolar 1.4/55mm,1.8/50mm,1.8/80mm,Tessar 2.8/50mm,Biotar 2/58mm,1.5/75mm,1.5/7,5cm
Carl Zeiss: Sonnar 2.8/135,2.8/180mm,Tessar 4/135mm
Nikon:2.8/20mm, 2.8/28mm,1.4/35mm,1.4/50mm,2/50mm,1.8/85mm,2/85mm,2.8/135mm
Pentax: Pentax 1.2/50mm,1.8/85mm,4/200mm
Helios: Helios-40 1.5/8,5cm,Helios-44-1 2/58mm,Helios-44-2 2/58mm
Olympus OM: 3.5/18mm,3.5/21mm,3.5/55mm macro,2/90mm macro,35-70mm
Meyer: 4.5/35mm Primagon,Primoplan 1.9/58mm,1.9/75mm,2.8/100mm,Orestegor 2.8/135mm,4.5/40 Helioplan
Leica: 4/100 Macro
Konica:21mm f4, 28mm f3.5,35mm f2.8,50mm f1.4,57mm f1.2,85mm f1.8,100mm f2.8,135mm f3.5,135mm f3.2,200mm f3.5,4/300mm,40cm f4.5
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