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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 11819
Location: West Emilia
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 Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 11:09 pm Post subject: Frankesteinizing a K10D |
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A morbid idea crossed my mind:do you think it could be possible to take a Pentax K10D and have it's mount changed into a Contax-Yashica mount?
The register distances are nearly identical (only 0.04 mm difference).
What would happen to the other features of the camera?
Would the image stabilization still work?
Would the focus confirmation still work?
Anyone has any idea?
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
Main Tools:
LENSES: Carl Zeiss, Leitz, Soviet, old Nikkors, others.
DSLR: Canon EOS 5D, 50D. SLR: Contax AX, RX, 167MT; Voigtländer Bessaflex TM; Praktica FX2; Nikon FM2, F70.
RANGEFINDERS: Contax G2, Kiev-4, Voigtlaender Bessa-T, Canonette QL17. MEDIUM FORMAT: Pentacon 6, Zeiss Super Ikonta, Agfa Record II.
Read Full List HERE
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
"Freedom is the right to tell people what they do not want to hear. " (George Orwell)
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Bob
Joined: 15 Mar 2007
Posts: 402
Location: Wentzville, Mo.
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 2:56 am Post subject: |
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2 aspirin and go to bed. 
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Bob
"In terms of addiction, there is nothing more powerful than men's toys."
Sammy Davis Jr. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 2081
Location: Sitges, (Spain)
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 5:05 am Post subject: Re: Frankesteinizing a K10D |
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| Orio wrote: | A morbid idea crossed my mind:do you think it could be possible to take a Pentax K10D and have it's mount changed into a Contax-Yashica mount?
The register distances are nearly identical (only 0.04 mm difference).
What would happen to the other features of the camera?
Would the image stabilization still work?
Would the focus confirmation still work?
Anyone has any idea? |
Orio, probably the answer is yes to both questions. I owned the K100DS that has the same mount than the K10D, and placing a simple M42 to Pentax-K ring inside the mount, you got all the M42 lenses estabilized and focus confirmed... So this should also happen as well if you replace the mount by a Contax/yashica one... No electrical/electronic implications on this.
Jes.
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Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 18-200, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro (Adaptall)
Fixed CZJ Planar 50mm 1.7, Helios 44-2, Cosinon 28mm, CZJ Sonnar 135, Industar-61, Jupiter-9, Industar-50, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8
DSLR Canon 350D, Pentax K10D
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Mamiya 645E, Petri 6x45, Nettar
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX I, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30, EXA500, EXA 1A
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Olympus 35RC, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret LR, Welta Welti-I
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Minox 35 ML, Canon Prima Super 105
Compact Digital Caplio GX100, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot 520
Life is that boring wasted time in between two pictures |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008
Posts: 831
Location: San Francisco, USA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 5:26 am Post subject: |
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I would say - probably.
My K100D looks like the mount would be easy enough to remove. It is designed to be removed, it seems.
However -
It is an evil and unnatural act, and you will suffer a horrible fate at the hands of the accursed creature you create.
(This warning is required by the mad scientist labeling act of 1987. )
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Pentax K100D, SV, SP1000, SP500, LX, SF10, Mamiya 1000TL, Sears/Ricoh TLS, Exakta VX, VXIIb, Olympus OM-10, Nikon FM, Zeiss Contaflex B, Retina Reflex S, IV, Rolleiflex, Speed Graphic & Meridian 4x5, misc. rangefinders and folders, several dozen lenses and etc., et. al., ad infinitum. |
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Bruce
Joined: 15 Jan 2008
Posts: 117
Location: Boston, Ma USA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 6:31 am Post subject: |
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Oh goody... I hope you are going to post pictures of the process Orio.
I fear upgrading my 400d to another cam other than the Canon, and losing my Contax Z's. But that Pentax has some nice features. Or am I getting too far ahead of myself here? |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008
Posts: 805
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:35 am Post subject: |
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Shouldnt be harder then to remove the outer ring of the mount, which I think is only fitted with 4-5 screws. and then put in a machined C/Y ring? Whats the differences in the mount measurements except for the distance to the sensor? Inner diameter etc?
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My Flickr - Takumar.org
PENTAX K10D, Spotmatic
Asahi Auto Takumar 85/1.8
Asahi Takumar 105/2.8 135/3.5
Asahi Super Takumar 20/4.5 50/1.4 55/1.8 85/1.9 105/2.8 135/3.5 150/4 200/4
Asahi S-M-C Takumar 35/3.5 300/4
Asahi S-M-C Macro-Takumar 50/4,100/4
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 2240
Location: Anacortes Washington
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 7:45 am Post subject: |
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I think it could be tough. The lens release mechanism for C/Y is quite integral to the front end of a yashica or contax camera. You would need a donor camera for organs and, enough room to mount the whole assembly on the front of the pentax. Converting to leica or zuiko would be more feasible at least mechanically requiring some shimming I would guess. I say that not knowing the exact register distantance(s).
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Current Kit
Canon 5D, 40D
Contax 4/18, 1.4/50, 1.4/85, 2.8/85, 2/100, 3.5/100, 2.8/180, Rollei HFT 1.4/35, 1.4/85, Zuiko 2/21, 2/24, 2/28, 2/35, 2/80, Yashica ML 3.5/21, 2.8/24, Helios 40 protype, Trioplan 2.8/100, Tair 11A,
Epson R D1(s), Bessa L, Bessa R2m, Leica CL, CV 4.5/15, 4/25, 1.4/40, Zeiss ZM 2/35, Yashinon1.8/50, CLE 4/90, Zeiss Opton 4/135 T, Electro GT, Electro GX, Electro CC |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7232
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:13 am Post subject: |
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If it was only the ring, it wouldn't be a problem, I guess. But as Andy has already mentioned, any mechanical functional part makes more difficult.
If you want to try, I would recommend not to use a K10D, but try to find a used old Pentax DSLR (*istD or something) to play with. 
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS500, Spotmatic SPII, Yashica-24, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Kiron: 2/28;70-210 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;2.8/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 1.7/50;2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Petri2.8/28; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; 2.8/135; Weltblick3.5/135; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65
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hacksawbob
Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 1057
Location: LANCS UK
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:16 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | It is an evil and unnatural act, and you will suffer a horrible fate at the hands of the accursed creature you create.
(This warning is required by the mad scientist labeling act of 1987. ) |
HA HA
there would be auto focus contacts in the pentax mount maybe that need to be removed as well, maybe worth buying a broken pentax to perform your perverted experiments  The only thing that keeps me from ditching all my canon digital gear is the c\y issue if there were a working solution for this I would buy the K20D as soon as it was economically viable.
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 11819
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:08 am Post subject: |
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guys,
you know I am not able to make such precision handiwork - of course I would committ the job to a professional should I ever decided to do that.
@ Bruce... I don't even have the camera, Bruce! It's just speculation on my part for now. I love the colours of the k10D (many Pentax people seem to dislike them, I don't know why), but a Pentax mount would be of little use to me.
@ Andy: the donor camera is not a problem, there are many Yashicas around for little money, and surely I can find a broken one in no time on Ebay. Thanks for pointing out the mechanical problem. It's precious information.
_________________
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
Main Tools:
LENSES: Carl Zeiss, Leitz, Soviet, old Nikkors, others.
DSLR: Canon EOS 5D, 50D. SLR: Contax AX, RX, 167MT; Voigtländer Bessaflex TM; Praktica FX2; Nikon FM2, F70.
RANGEFINDERS: Contax G2, Kiev-4, Voigtlaender Bessa-T, Canonette QL17. MEDIUM FORMAT: Pentacon 6, Zeiss Super Ikonta, Agfa Record II.
Read Full List HERE
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
"Freedom is the right to tell people what they do not want to hear. " (George Orwell)
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Jieffe
Joined: 04 Nov 2007
Posts: 277
Location: Brugelette, Belgium
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 11819
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:39 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Guido, I remember that discussion. The adaptation of an existing mount would probably both ruin the existing mount and not be effective and safe with the C/Y lenses. I would think of replacing the mount entirely instead. Make it the C/Y digital reflex that does not exist. Of course such a purpose would be easier with a Canon camera (and I will do that one day probably on my current 5D, after I have gotten a second Canon FF body). But Pentax k10D colours are different and offer some strenghts in the reds that Canon has not.
_________________
_
ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano
Main Tools:
LENSES: Carl Zeiss, Leitz, Soviet, old Nikkors, others.
DSLR: Canon EOS 5D, 50D. SLR: Contax AX, RX, 167MT; Voigtländer Bessaflex TM; Praktica FX2; Nikon FM2, F70.
RANGEFINDERS: Contax G2, Kiev-4, Voigtlaender Bessa-T, Canonette QL17. MEDIUM FORMAT: Pentacon 6, Zeiss Super Ikonta, Agfa Record II.
Read Full List HERE
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net
"Freedom is the right to tell people what they do not want to hear. " (George Orwell)
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 7232
Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Removing the whole mount is, how can I put it?, a "clean" way.
I like the idea to "manufacture" a "new" kind of camera.
If you have many good lenses with one mount (just like your CY, Orio), this might be a very clever solution.
I'll keep my fingers crossed for you that you can find a way to do it.
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS500, Spotmatic SPII, Yashica-24, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Kiron: 2/28;70-210 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;2.8/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 1.7/50;2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Petri2.8/28; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; 2.8/135; Weltblick3.5/135; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65
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maddog10
Joined: 08 Apr 2008
Posts: 985
Location: Maryland, USA
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:01 pm Post subject: Re: Frankesteinizing a K10D |
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| Jesito wrote: | Orio, probably the answer is yes to both questions. I owned the K100DS that has the same mount than the K10D, and placing a simple M42 to Pentax-K ring inside the mount, you got all the M42 lenses estabilized and focus confirmed... So this should also happen as well if you replace the mount by a Contax/yashica one... No electrical/electronic implications on this.
Jes. |
Jes (like the new avatar),
I have the Pentax M42 lens to K mount adapter and do not get focus confirmation on my K10D.
_________________
Michael Hill
DSLR: Nikon - D3, D80, D40 Canon- 5D
Film: Nikon - F5, F2, F, EM, FG, FE, Nikkorex Contax - G2 Mamiya - M645 Olympus - OM1 Praktika - LTL PLC3 Pentax - Spotmatic SP Yashica Electro 35 GSN Zenit - B
Nikon Mount Lens: Nikkor - 2.8/20 2.8/24 2/28 2.8/28 3.5/28 2/35 2.8/35 1.4/50 1.8/50 2/50 1.8/85 2/85 2.5/105 2.8/135 3.5/135 2.8/180 4/200 4.5/300 Micro 2.8/55 Micro 4/200 Zoom 3.5/36-72 3.5/43-86 4/70-210 Sigma - Zoom 2.8-4/35-70 Soligor - 3.5-4.5/28-80 4.5/80-200 5.6/95-310 Tamron - SP 2.8-3.8/35-80 SP 3.5/70-210 3.8-4/80-210 Vivitar - 3.8/19 2.8/28 (Series 1) 3.5-4.5/19-35 (Kiron) 3.5/70-210 Zenitar - 2.8/16
Contax Mount Lens: Carl Zeiss - Biogon 2.8/21 Biogon 2.8/28 Planar 2/45 Sonnar 2.8/90 Yashica - 4.5/70-210
M42 Screw Mount Lens: CZJ - Flek 2.8/20 Flek 2.4/35 Tessar 2.8/50 3.5/135 Focal - 2.8/28 Helios - 44-2 2/58 44M 2/58 44M-4 2/58 40 1.5/85 Industar - 50-2 3.5/50 Jupiter - 37A 3.5/135 Meyer Optik Gorlitz - Domiplan 2.8/50 MIR - 24M 2/35 1B 2.8/37 Pentacon - 2.8/29 1.8/50 2.8/135 Pentax - SMC 3.5/135 SMC 4/200 SMC 5.6/400 Rexatar - 6.3/400 Rokinon - 3.5-4.5/35-135 Sears - 2.8/28 2.8/135 4.5/90-230 Soligor - 2.8/105 3.5-4.5/28-80 |
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zewrak
Joined: 12 Apr 2008
Posts: 805
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| Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:20 pm Post subject: Re: Frankesteinizing a K10D |
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| maddog10 wrote: | | Jesito wrote: | Orio, probably the answer is yes to both questions. I owned the K100DS that has the same mount than the K10D, and placing a simple M42 to Pentax-K ring inside the mount, you got all the M42 lenses estabilized and focus confirmed... So this should also happen as well if you replace the mount by a Contax/yashica one... No electrical/electronic implications on this.
Jes. |
Jes (like the new avatar),
I have the Pentax M42 lens to K mount adapter and do not get focus confirmation on my K10D. |
Then you are doing something wrong.
_________________
My Flickr - Takumar.org
PENTAX K10D, Spotmatic
Asahi Auto Takumar 85/1.8
Asahi Takumar 105/2.8 135/3.5
Asahi Super Takumar 20/4.5 50/1.4 55/1.8 85/1.9 105/2.8 135/3.5 150/4 200/4
Asahi S-M-C Takumar 35/3.5 300/4
Asahi S-M-C Macro-Takumar 50/4,100/4
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