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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 476
Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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 Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:17 pm Post subject: First try with Isolette - how to select settings? |
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Hi! At last I've got some 120-film for my Isolette. I have taken my first exposure.
However, I think its very hard to select settings when I dont have exposure-metering/lightmeter. How do you do it?
Ok, I probably could get some good exposures if I go on feeling, but some guidelines would be nice...
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Mattias Wirf
RetroCamera | YashicaForum.com
Mattias@Flickr | My swedish website
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 2240
Location: Anacortes Washington
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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You can use the sunny f16 rules. The basics of it go like this. While shooting in full daylight with your back to the sun and subject facing it. If the lens aperture is set at f16 the shutter speed should correspond to the speed of the film you are using. Stick to print fim as it will give you more exposure latitude.
example:
ISO 100film camera settings f16 shutter @ 1/100th (125th is ok)
For f8 the shutter speed would be 2 stops higher 1/500th would be ok
Now if it is a cloudy but bright day figure roughly 1 1/2 to 2 stops more exposure
A cloudy and gray day figure 2- 3 stops more exposure
It is best to bracket your shots until you get the hang of it. Also the Isolette is a 30+ Year old camera. Bracketing will help you to find any discrepancies in the shutter times.  |
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 2240
Location: Anacortes Washington
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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BTW this technique can be used with the Yashica EE I see in your signature line.
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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 476
Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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F16SUNSHINE
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
Posts: 2240
Location: Anacortes Washington
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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I think that as you practice you will find what the EV of the scene in front of you is. Soon it will not matter if you are indoors or outdoors. Just keep at it and you will become a natural. Practice more with the 35mm rangefinder. The film is cheaper and more frames means more bracketing and faster learning curve. Conrats Mattias  This is the most fun part of photography. |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 11793
Location: West Emilia
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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Mattias, the first time, take with you the 350D and set it to manual mode.
Then you can experiment, try to guess what light is there, then set the 350D to what is your guess, and make a shoot, and see (with the histogram and the image replay) how near or far you have got.
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Nesster
Joined: 24 Apr 2008
Posts: 493
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| Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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A good way to train yourself: start guessing the EV / exposure in various places, and then meter with something with a meter  Soon you'll be getting pretty good with it.
(I usually compromise: I take one reading and then use dead reckoning thereafter. Myself, I find I don't go down in f/stops fast enough - so often what I think is 2 stops is really 3 and so on. That's part of the learning.)
Congrats on the Isolette, those are beautiful cameras.
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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 476
Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007
Posts: 667
Location: UK Swindon
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| Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:10 am Post subject: |
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You can buy an exposure meter for next to nothing on ebay and any old photo book will teach you the basics of using it.
You may even find the experience of using a hand held meter will help your digital photography and help you understanding light and exposure.
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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 476
Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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Prometheus
Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 476
Location: Garphyttan, Sweden
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starvingjack
Joined: 15 Jul 2008
Posts: 6
Location: singapore
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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| sometimes im lazy and i'll bring a cheap german ambient meter along...heheh...im still dreaming of the super isolette...haha |
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