First C-41 development

Carlsson · Joined: 26 Jul 2008 Posts: 793 Location: Portugal

After some trouble with my local lab, I decided to do my own C-41 process.
Development was a piece of cake, chemistry was the Rollei C-41 1l kit.

The development times are restricted, there is no room for experimenting.
I used my kitchen sink, filled with hot water, to maintain the 37.8�C.
The water had ~45�, I put all the bottles and the tank inside of the hot water, waiting for ~39�C, once it's there, you can start with the first step.

I Developer 3'15", (38�C) time starts with pouring the developer in the tank. Inverse 4 times, then 4 times every 30". Between the inversions, put the tank back into the hot water. Approx. 5" before the 3'15" are up, pour out the developer.
II Bleach 6'30" (38�C) pour it into the tank. Inverse 1 time every 30". Pour out the bleacher.
III Water rinse 3'15" (24-30�C) The Ilford method worked well for me (5x, 10x,20x,20x). Pour out the water after each step)
IV Fixing 6'30" (24-30�C), inverse 4 times at the beginning, then one time every 30", pour back the fixer.
V Water rinse 3'15" (24-30�C) (5x, 10x,20x,20x). Pour out the water after each step)
VI Stabilizer 1'30" (24-30�C), don't inverse, just move it gently. Pour out the stabilizer.
Dry the film.
That's it. Below are some samples from the first process. They have no artistical demand, so I'll post them here, as a result.
Film was Fuji Superia 100.

I still work with the mixed chemicals, having now developed 12 rolls for a friend (added 30" to step I). (135mm).

peterqd · Expire: 2014-01-04

Brilliant results! I'm amazed this was your first attempt, well done indeed. The process seems simpler than I was led to believe, I think I'll have a try too. Smile

hexi · Expire: 2011-11-18

So easy right ? And results are better than in a lab, i mean its done properly Very Happy

Congrats .

I was also sceptic as about the C41, but apart the temperature, its very easy, mixing chemicals included.

I don't used stop bath, and followed the indications on the booklet. Dev temperature was often about 39� , but i had no troubles.

dev : 3.30' fixing : 6' washing 3' stab 1'

Using the Tetenal kit, which costs like 22� and you can do up to 15 films easily.

Carlsson · Joined: 26 Jul 2008 Posts: 793 Location: Portugal

Yes Peter, I was scared too, about times and temperatures, but don't worry, it's really easy. Move on! Wink

Sounds great Hexi, I have to try the Tetenal C41 kit.

Next step is C-6, the Tetenal C-6 kit is already sitting next to me, on my desk... if I only had the nerve... Wink

hexi · Expire: 2011-11-18

What is important for the stock solution to last long ( Tetenal indicates 16 200 ISO film for th 1l solution ) though if you use many color films go for the 5l solution which permits up to 70 films .

So the stocking part : i used empty milk bottles in plastic, whose are heat conductible and allow the heating of the bottles quickly, like 10 minutes to go up to 40�. Stocked in light proof place ( i used a chest ) Very Happy

... lasted about 5 months.

poilu · Expire: 2019-08-29

wow! congrats that's great results

Orio · Expire: 2012-12-04

Congratulations!! Excellent results.
I wish I'd have the guts to try.

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

Good results, Carlsson. I've not yet tried, but there is actually a little room for experimentation. For example it's possible to push the film and maybe even to pull. The real problem, I suspect, is that the color balance will alter.
In which amount and if it would be possible to correct in the printing phase (altering the filter pack) is to be seen. Same thing if one is going to scan, I guess. For what is concerning the storage there is a product to spray in the bottles after having filled 'em which removes the air slowing down oxidation.
Orio, there is really nothing to fear. If you are concerned with the nasty fumes you can mix the things in open air and when actually developing it's just sufficient to keep you nose away from the tank Smile

. Use then latex gloves and you should be fine. You're doin BW, right? You don't need any extra equipment, apart maybe a large plastic basin for the water bath.

Cheers, Marty.

Orio · Expire: 2012-12-04

Marty, actually I don't like much colour negative film. And after I finish the stock that I have, I don't plan to buy further more.
What I really like in colour are slides, but slide processing is the most delicate and usually when I shoot slides, I really care about the results (for instance, vacation trip), so I don't want to take risk.

Besides, as someone has already pointed out, colour negative, and evenmore so colour slides, don't really leave you much room to be creative when developing. The best part of developing B&W is that you can help create, with developing techniques, pretty much the result that you want.
With colour and slides, instead, you pretty much have this alternative: done right, or done wrong. So, I prefer that a pro machine does it, and not have the care about ruining my photo work.
-

Attila · Expire: 2025-11-18

I had good experience 25 yrs before to develop slides at home, you should try too.

Orio · Expire: 2012-12-04

Attila · Expire: 2025-11-18

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

If you are careful and methodical E-6 process should not be any difficultier. That said I agree with you when we're talking about slides: if you screw up something then there is nothing but the trash can. I think, however, it's worth at least a try. And then there is something magical when you pick up the film after having let it dry: almost as looking a BW print to appear in the developer tray under the red light ... priceless IMO Smile

... Then as Dirty Harry used to say: a man's got to know his limitations. If you don't feel like to do it yourself is, as always, just ok that way.

Cheers, Marty.

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Excellent results, my first go will be doing black and white film.

Carlsson · Joined: 26 Jul 2008 Posts: 793 Location: Portugal

Thanks friends,
I can see lots of good points here, it's true that it's very good to support you local lab, but in my case, they did a miserable job (C41), dust, fingerprints, color shift... And to process E6, it takes six weeks here to wait for the slides, 10 Euros each slide - which is very hefty, at least for me, because no one is buying my images. Then, after six weeks, you have to call the lab and ask for your slides... A price where I can consider to shoot Kodachrome64 Crying or Very sad

And the second point is the, like Marty so nice described, the magical, when you pick up the film - priceless, yes. Wink

I was also concerned about the results, tested the first development with my "cheap" Superia. Now, after 15 rolls, it becomes a bit more routine, with more trust.

Marty, yes, push & pull should be possible.

Farside · Expire: 2013-12-27

Excellent results - nothing wrong with those colours.
I'm waiting for a reasonable backlog of colour film to build up before I get a C-41 kit, in case there's a limited storage life and I have to use it all relatively quickly.

Attila · Expire: 2025-11-18

std · Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1827 Location: Bulgaria

Hi All,
I've got the Rollei DIGIBASE C-41 Film Kit for 10 to 12 films.
(it's on sale currently for 14,99EUR)

I've tried it on 2 films - in the kitchen sink Smile

I can't really tell if the colours are correct since i still do not have a scanner yet but generally the negatives look very good and contrasty.

In the instructions PDF
http://macodirect.de/download/C41_InstructionManual.pdf

for colour developer there are several times specified for different temperatures

(37,8�C �0,3�) - 3 Min. 15 Sek.
45 �C Rapid - 2 Min.
25 �C - 13 Min.
20 �C - 21 Min.

Is this correct?
Can i develop the C41 in 20�C ?

Thanks,
Stefan

Carlsson · Joined: 26 Jul 2008 Posts: 793 Location: Portugal

Yes you can Smile

But I would recommend the 38�C method, nearly 10 minutes at this temperature for the process.

Buth when you have reached the 10th or 15th roll out of your C41 kit, 21 minutes to the CD at 21�C and nearly 15 mins for the B+X plus rinse and stabilizer makes nearly one hour per process. Shocked

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

Hello, std.
Is good to see people already interested in home color processing.
Regarding your question if they say so it's probably possible. I've ever done it at 38 �C. I think it'll develop to completion, my concern is color balance. That will more than probably be altered, how much is to be seen. Probably this can even be corrected in digital pp if you're gonna scan or altering the filter pack if you're gonna print RA-4. Again not having tried I cannot tell for sure what's gonna happen but I think it's good to know that there'll be something different. My rule, for what's worth, is finding a method that works and stick to that, been consistent is more important thing, I think. This may not be strictly pertinent, but RA-4 works great at 20�C and this I've tried myself Smile

.

Cheers, M.-

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

std · Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1827 Location: Bulgaria

Thanks for the replies

It's nice to see that this is still an interesting topic.

I guess i have to experiment a bit. Anyways keeping the 37,8 �C is not that easy without a thermostat controlled water heater.

I'm not worried about the capacity of the chemicals. Most probably I will not have so many films to be developed at once.. 2-3 max. afterwards everything goes to the sink.

Something else: where do you get RA-4 paper from ?
It will be nice to see how it will come up from the enlarger.

BR,
Stefan

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

std · Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1827 Location: Bulgaria

Thanks for the links marty.
Both sites are great. Very Happy