Essential photo basics . . .

[j.lukow]

This thread was inspired by an email exchange with Larry.
I'm not asking about basics we've forgotten or should have remembered. I was hoping to share some tips with members out there - to refresh the memory or teach the members newer to photography (especially MF).

Tripod use . . .
Use one if you're using a telephoto and slower shutter speed. Larry mentioned that the shutter speed should be faster than the focal length of the lens - for a 400mm lens, minimum of 1/500th - if I understand what he said. this is because shake is easily seen when using telephotos and zooms.
I think this is an essential basic because so many digitals have anti-shake mechanisms, so if you're using film or I guess a manual lens - shake/blur can pop up.
If you don't have a tripod or room for a tripod set it on something solid - a bean bag on the ground, a log, a rock, a low wall or a car roof.

So guys if you can think of an essential tip post it.

Jim

ps - When using a RF camera make sure the lens cap is off - doesn't count
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Jim's Kit:
Minolta Kit: Minolta X70 & Autowinder G, Minolta SRT200
LENSES:Minolta - 45mm & 50mm F1:2, PF 58mm F1:1.4,
Tamron 28mm f1:2.5, Tamron SP 35-80mm f1:2.8/3.8 & CF TeleMacro zoom 80-210 f1:3.8,
Vivitar f3.0~4.5 35-200mm macro focusing zoom, f 2.8 28mm CF Wide angle, 2x macro focus teleconverter,
Sigma F4 25-250, f 2.8~4 35-70mm zoom master,
Tokina SD f4-5.6 70-210 zoom, f4.5 80-200 "Ultra" zoom,
AutoImage 135mm F1:2.8, Spiratone 400mm f1:6.3, Magicon f3.5-4.8 35-70mm macro zoom,Accura MD mount Macro bellows
Start of M42 Kit:Praktica PLC2,Yashica TL Electro X
LENSES:Meyer Goerlitz Oreston 50mm f1:1.8 ,
Auto Yashinon DX 1:1.7 50mm,Steinheil Munchen Culminar 135mm f4.5, Adaptall-2 M42 adapter
Zeiss . . .
Zeiss Contaflex 126 system
Zeiss Contaflex Super

Other gear - Gossen Luna-Pro

[Laurence]

Don't hesitate to bracket! Especially if you come to a scene that is inspiring, and you want to make sure you have nailed it. This holds true especially with slide film, and even more if you are using the Sunny 16 rules.

If I am at a really nice position with slide film, and think that the image will probably worth it, I bracket 5 shots if using the Sunny 16 procedure, and 3 shots if I'm using a meter.

For print film, I've never bothered bracketing, and have always been "in the ballpark" to get a decent image, because the print film is forgiving.

I take my time when bracketing, and sometimes this results in "seeing" that the image could be improved in some way...so this can be a benefit from the "slowing down"....
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Using: M42 lens system
Using: Contaflex 126 system
Using: Mamiya RB67 Pro-S system
Cameras in Use: Yashica Mat 124, Revueflex 3003, Yashica Electro 35, Pentax K110D, Contaflex 126, Mamiya RB67 Pro-S

Lenses in Use: Zeiss Tele-Tessar 135/2.8, Industar 50/3.5, Zeiss Sonnar 85/2.8, Zeiss Tessar 45/2.8, Zeiss Distagon 32/2.8, Tamron SP 35-80, Tamron SP 70-210, Soligor Macro 35-70, Vivitar 100-300, Mamiya-Sekor 65/4.5, Mamiya-Sekor 180/4.5, Zeiss Pantar 45/2.8

[Bruce]

be sure to consider crop factor when determining tripod use with your focal length and shutter speeds in use. A 50mm Zeiss is going to need an 80ish shutter speed before you can go handheld with it on your Canon [digital].

I was wondering why my 50th sec shutters were getting motion blur before I stumbled on this little extra detail.

[Orio]

[Bruce]

Well, I just Googled "crop camera and shutter speeds" and realized this is a very controversial subject, so I defer to you Orio. But after viewing many of your works, I often concluded you must have the steadiness of a bronze sculpture with the hands of gold.

[Orio]

[Richard_D]

More of a useful tip than essential:

If you use a reversing ring for macro stick a short extension tube on the rear end - it helps reduce flare, and protects the rear element from close encounters with the subject.
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Richard

The interesting bit:

Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.

DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.

More to come...

[Orio]

Great tip, Richard!
I never thought of that.
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ХОРИОС-61 ( ώρεος ) : Lens sana in corpore sano

Main Tools:
LENSES: Carl Zeiss, Leitz, Soviet, old Nikkors, others.
DSLR: Canon EOS 5D, 50D. SLR: Contax AX, RX, 167MT; Voigtländer Bessaflex TM; Praktica FX2; Nikon FM2, F70.
RANGEFINDERS: Contax G2, Kiev-4, Voigtlaender Bessa-T, Canonette QL17. MEDIUM FORMAT: Pentacon 6, Zeiss Super Ikonta, Agfa Record II.
Read Full List HERE
www.timelessphotography.eu
www.oriofoto.net

"Freedom is the right to tell people what they do not want to hear. " (George Orwell)
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[F16SUNSHINE]

This is less a Technique tip and more a equipment tip. Use black tape or glue to attach two rear lens caps together back to back. This way when changing lenses in the field you can quickly remove the lens from the cam, attach it to the "open" end of the cap, and then install the new lens. It saves time and you will not be fumbling for a a cap while your lenses rear element is exposed. We all only have two hands after all

Now for a technique tip for new manual focus users. When focusing with a split image screen. Don't be afraid to twist and turn the camera to position the split image on a crossing line in your subject. Often you will find the split is parallel with your subject rendering no use for focusing. Move the camera for focus and then once focused, re-compose the shot. This is also very useful for contrast spot rangefinder users.

I will add more later if anyone is interested.
_________________
Current Kit
Canon 5D, 40D
Contax 4/18, 1.4/50, 1.4/85, 2.8/85, 2/100, 3.5/100, 2.8/180, Rollei HFT 1.4/35, 1.4/85, Zuiko 2/21, 2/24, 2/28, 2/35, 2/80, Yashica ML 3.5/21, 2.8/24, Helios 40 protype, Trioplan 2.8/100, Tair 11A,
Epson R D1(s), Bessa L, Bessa R2m, Leica CL, CV 4.5/15, 4/25, 1.4/40, Zeiss ZM 2/35, Yashinon1.8/50, CLE 4/90, Zeiss Opton 4/135 T, Electro GT, Electro GX, Electro CC

[poilu]

yes sunshine! give us more crazy tips like the glued caps
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Have a nice day

[F16SUNSHINE]

Well how about this wild one

Always use a hood. A proper lens hood is more important than multi-coating in many lighting situations. Also a hood and in particular a metal one will provide protection for your lenses. Many photogs overlook this and find hoods cumbersome and inconvenient. Well I don't think more keepers is inconvenient or cumbersome I long ago invested in the fantastic Contax lens hood system. All the hoods are oversized diameter which allows for greater depth. The parts for this system are now becoming quite expensive. However, often they go overlooked at camera shows and can be had for a song so keep your eyes open.
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Current Kit
Canon 5D, 40D
Contax 4/18, 1.4/50, 1.4/85, 2.8/85, 2/100, 3.5/100, 2.8/180, Rollei HFT 1.4/35, 1.4/85, Zuiko 2/21, 2/24, 2/28, 2/35, 2/80, Yashica ML 3.5/21, 2.8/24, Helios 40 protype, Trioplan 2.8/100, Tair 11A,
Epson R D1(s), Bessa L, Bessa R2m, Leica CL, CV 4.5/15, 4/25, 1.4/40, Zeiss ZM 2/35, Yashinon1.8/50, CLE 4/90, Zeiss Opton 4/135 T, Electro GT, Electro GX, Electro CC

[Orio]

[LucisPictor]

[LucisPictor]

[Orio]