Home

Please support mflenses.com if you need any graphic related work order it from us, click on above banner to order!
SearchSearch MemberlistMemberlist RegisterRegister ProfileProfile Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages Log inLog in

Essential photo basics . . .
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Techniques
View previous topic :: View next topic  


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 3:19 am    Post subject: Essential photo basics . . . Reply with quote
This thread was inspired by an email exchange with Larry.
I'm not asking about basics we've forgotten or should have remembered. I was hoping to share some tips with members out there - to refresh the memory or teach the members newer to photography (especially MF).

Tripod use . . .
Use one if you're using a telephoto and slower shutter speed. Larry mentioned that the shutter speed should be faster than the focal length of the lens - for a 400mm lens, minimum of 1/500th - if I understand what he said. this is because shake is easily seen when using telephotos and zooms.
I think this is an essential basic because so many digitals have anti-shake mechanisms, so if you're using film or I guess a manual lens - shake/blur can pop up.
If you don't have a tripod or room for a tripod set it on something solid - a bean bag on the ground, a log, a rock, a low wall or a car roof.

So guys if you can think of an essential tip post it.

Jim

ps - When using a RF camera make sure the lens cap is off - doesn't count Laughing


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Don't hesitate to bracket! Especially if you come to a scene that is inspiring, and you want to make sure you have nailed it. This holds true especially with slide film, and even more if you are using the Sunny 16 rules.

If I am at a really nice position with slide film, and think that the image will probably worth it, I bracket 5 shots if using the Sunny 16 procedure, and 3 shots if I'm using a meter.

For print film, I've never bothered bracketing, and have always been "in the ballpark" to get a decent image, because the print film is forgiving.

I take my time when bracketing, and sometimes this results in "seeing" that the image could be improved in some way...so this can be a benefit from the "slowing down"....


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
be sure to consider crop factor when determining tripod use with your focal length and shutter speeds in use. A 50mm Zeiss is going to need an 80ish shutter speed before you can go handheld with it on your Canon [digital].

I was wondering why my 50th sec shutters were getting motion blur before I stumbled on this little extra detail.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bruce wrote:
be sure to consider crop factor when determining tripod use with your focal length and shutter speeds in use. A 50mm Zeiss is going to need an 80ish shutter speed before you can go handheld with it on your Canon [digital].


I don't think so, because you are still using a 50mm lens. You are just recording a smaller part of it.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well, I just Googled "crop camera and shutter speeds" and realized this is a very controversial subject, so I defer to you Orio. But after viewing many of your works, I often concluded you must have the steadiness of a bronze sculpture with the hands of gold.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bruce wrote:
Well, I just Googled "crop camera and shutter speeds" and realized this is a very controversial subject, so I defer to you Orio. But after viewing many of your works, I often concluded you must have the steadiness of a bronze sculpture with the hands of gold.


Laughing

I have my share of misses, like everyone, it's just that I don't show them Wink


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
More of a useful tip than essential:

If you use a reversing ring for macro stick a short extension tube on the rear end - it helps reduce flare, and protects the rear element from close encounters with the subject.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Great tip, Richard!
I never thought of that.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
This is less a Technique tip and more a equipment tip. Use black tape or glue to attach two rear lens caps together back to back. This way when changing lenses in the field you can quickly remove the lens from the cam, attach it to the "open" end of the cap, and then install the new lens. It saves time and you will not be fumbling for a a cap while your lenses rear element is exposed. We all only have two hands after all Wink

Now for a technique tip for new manual focus users. When focusing with a split image screen. Don't be afraid to twist and turn the camera to position the split image on a crossing line in your subject. Often you will find the split is parallel with your subject rendering no use for focusing. Move the camera for focus and then once focused, re-compose the shot. This is also very useful for contrast spot rangefinder users.

I will add more later if anyone is interested. Smile


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
yes sunshine! give us more crazy tips like the glued caps Very Happy


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well how about this wild one Wink

Always use a hood. A proper lens hood is more important than multi-coating in many lighting situations. Also a hood and in particular a metal one will provide protection for your lenses. Many photogs overlook this and find hoods cumbersome and inconvenient. Well I don't think more keepers is inconvenient or cumbersome Smile I long ago invested in the fantastic Contax lens hood system. All the hoods are oversized diameter which allows for greater depth. The parts for this system are now becoming quite expensive. However, often they go overlooked at camera shows and can be had for a song so keep your eyes open.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Also a hood and in particular a metal one will provide protection for your lenses.


I can not underscore this enough. If I had a metal hood on last Xmas, I would not have damaged my Planar 2/135.

Besides... Andy made me a gift of one of his Contax rings+hood Very Happy


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
Bruce wrote:
be sure to consider crop factor when determining tripod use with your focal length and shutter speeds in use. A 50mm Zeiss is going to need an 80ish shutter speed before you can go handheld with it on your Canon [digital].


I don't think so, because you are still using a 50mm lens. You are just recording a smaller part of it.


Exactly, you are using a smaller part, so to cover the same frame you need to enlarge higher and thus camera shake gets visible easier. That's the reason why you should calculate with the "effective" 35mm equivalent.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
F16SUNSHINE wrote:
This is less a Technique tip and more a equipment tip. Use black tape or glue to attach two rear lens caps together back to back. This way when changing lenses in the field you can quickly remove the lens from the cam, attach it to the "open" end of the cap, and then install the new lens. It saves time and you will not be fumbling for a a cap while your lenses rear element is exposed. We all only have two hands after all Wink

Now for a technique tip for new manual focus users. When focusing with a split image screen. Don't be afraid to twist and turn the camera to position the split image on a crossing line in your subject. Often you will find the split is parallel with your subject rendering no use for focusing. Move the camera for focus and then once focused, re-compose the shot. This is also very useful for contrast spot rangefinder users.

I will add more later if anyone is interested. Smile


For EOS it looks like this:

Very useful, indeed!


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
LucisPictor wrote:

Exactly, you are using a smaller part, so to cover the same frame you need to enlarge higher and thus camera shake gets visible easier. That's the reason why you should calculate with the "effective" 35mm equivalent.


It's too complicated for me Laughing


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
Exactly, you are using a smaller part, so to cover the same frame you need to enlarge higher and thus camera shake gets visible easier. That's the reason why you should calculate with the "effective" 35mm equivalent.


I think this is the most confusing thing for people in regards to crop cams. Here is the simplest way to put it. Magnification does not change no matter the sensor or film size. For a visual here is an example. Think of it as "reach". If you have two ladders that are 2 meters tall. One could be half a meter wide the other 3/4 of a meter wide (fat guy and skinny guy ladders Wink ). They both still reach 2 meters. So a 50mm has the same magnification or "reach" regardless of the sensor it is covering. Therefore camera shake is not more sensitive for a smaller sensor or less for a larger one for a given focal length.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Therefore camera shake is not more sensitive for a smaller sensor or less for a larger one for a given focal length.


So, I have right ?


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
LucisPictor wrote:
... you need to enlarge higher and thus camera shake gets visible easier...


What I mean with that is that you need to enlarge the "negative" more often to get a "print" of a certain size.
In the same way, the medium size plays a role for sharpness (circle of confusion), it plays a role for the prevention of camera shake.

That's how I have learned it:
Visible camera shake means that sharpness is reduced (of course!).
If you want to get, say, a 20x30cm print from a sensor sized 24x36mm, you need to "enlarge" the picture by about 8 times.
If you crop out the central part of the 24x36mm frame (which is done by a "crop sensor") you need to enlarge by about 13 times to get a 20x30cm print.
Thus camera shake (or any other lack of sharpness) also is "enlarged" 13 times (instead of 8 times) and ergo easier visible.

Where is the mistake in my thoughts?

Anyway, if you calculate with a minimum shutter speed of 1/(focal length * 1.6), you are on the safe side. Wink


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:08 pm    Post subject: Turn Around Reply with quote
A technique that I always use on almost every shot. It was told to me by an old photo mentor many years ago. It's very simple and should be done by everyone shooting anytime.

Whenever you're shooting, almost anything, almost anytime, turn around and look at whats behind and at your side. You may, and many times will, find an absolutely astounding shot.

Wink

Jules


PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Turn Around Reply with quote
lulalake wrote:
A technique that I always use on almost every shot. It was told to me by an old photo mentor many years ago. It's very simple and should be done by everyone shooting anytime.
Whenever you're shooting, almost anything, almost anytime, turn around and look at whats behind and at your side. You may, and many times will, find an absolutely astounding shot.
Wink
Jules


This is one of the best advices ever for a street photographer.
I do this, but, not enough, and sometimes I am captured by the action and forget the surroundings.
It really takes a lot of discipline to keep this control all the time.
But practising it will improve - hopefully Smile


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 12:48 am    Post subject: Re: Turn Around Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
lulalake wrote:
A technique that I always use on almost every shot. It was told to me by an old photo mentor many years ago. It's very simple and should be done by everyone shooting anytime.
Whenever you're shooting, almost anything, almost anytime, turn around and look at whats behind and at your side. You may, and many times will, find an absolutely astounding shot.
Wink
Jules


This is one of the best advices ever for a street photographer.
I do this, but, not enough, and sometimes I am captured by the action and forget the surroundings.
It really takes a lot of discipline to keep this control all the time.
But practising it will improve - hopefully Smile


Yes, that advice has served me well. One more . .

Tonight, say to your wife or girl or boyfriend, (very seriously) "Baby, something's different about you. Are you losing weight or something?"

Guaranteed to make points!

Laughing


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 4:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
Where is the mistake in my thoughts?

Anyway, if you calculate with a minimum shutter speed of 1/(focal length * 1.6), you are on the safe side. Wink


Carsten
There is no mistake in your thought. This is absolutely on the safe side.


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I am not convinced the written word can ever help a beginner or a mediocre experienced user good basics. The tripod is a great example.
Every good book, many forum posts and loads of magazine articles will stress a good Tripod is a more essential bit of kit than another new lens yet how many bother.
I see more bird watchers carrying quality tripods than I do photographers?

My Photo basic tip is to join a club
Being in a club is the ONLY way to get honest feed back on your work and to compare your own standards with better photographers.

Also everybody with a real interest should do courses.
The essential first is the Adobe approved Photoshop Basics course which is run by virtually every College in the UK.
Also in the UK consider the very easy but good City and Guilds Photography course
Both of these can be taken as Night school course and take up just a few hours a week.


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
LucisPictor wrote:
Orio wrote:
Bruce wrote:
be sure to consider crop factor when determining tripod use with your focal length and shutter speeds in use. A 50mm Zeiss is going to need an 80ish shutter speed before you can go handheld with it on your Canon [digital].


I don't think so, because you are still using a 50mm lens. You are just recording a smaller part of it.


Exactly, you are using a smaller part, so to cover the same frame you need to enlarge higher and thus camera shake gets visible easier. That's the reason why you should calculate with the "effective" 35mm equivalent.


As usual a very good and insightful discussion.
The answer is of course to test the theory.

Take an ordinary PS digital and set it to the equivalent of a 35mm 50mm lens FOV which should be around 10/12mm. Set your shutter to 1/15th and see how many shake free shots you get. Laughing
Post new topic   Reply to topic
Home   Techniques
Page 1 of 1