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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 5:42 pm Post subject: Don't use acetone on new camera bodies. |
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newton wrote:
I am usually careful and not that this is obvious but I dabbed a tiny bit of acetone on the gold contacts for cleaning on my new camera body and it faded the plastic. Good quality plastic won't do that so easily but on these new DSLR bodies forget it!
The cheap quality of everything today! |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7553 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 6:26 pm Post subject: Re: Don't use acetone on new camera bodies. |
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calvin83 wrote:
newton wrote: |
I am usually careful and not that this is obvious but I dabbed a tiny bit of acetone on the gold contacts for cleaning on my new camera body and it faded the plastic. Good quality plastic won't do that so easily but on these new DSLR bodies forget it!
The cheap quality of everything today! |
Acetone is a strong organic solvent which dissolve most plastics. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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NikonD
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1922 Location: Slovenija
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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NikonD wrote:
Very aggressive... I'm working with these kind of chemicals every day with methylene chloride being the most dangerous
you should use multi oil (not WD40) for cleaning electrical contacts or maybe just simple alcohol
I use alcohol every time I get a new lens, clean them from top to bottom without the glass of course |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:22 am Post subject: Re: Don't use acetone on new camera bodies. |
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indianadinos wrote:
calvin83 wrote: |
Acetone is a strong organic solvent which dissolve most plastics. |
+1 ... You should never use acetone to clean plastics ... _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 2:23 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
About the strongest solvent I'll use on a modern plastic camera is alcohol. It will usually handle most cleaning chores, I've found. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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aleksanderpolo
Joined: 24 Jan 2010 Posts: 684
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 5:18 am Post subject: |
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aleksanderpolo wrote:
isopropanol is pretty good for cleaning in general, don't need to worry about hurting plastic or coating on glass. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:15 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well for camera bodies and lenses (NOT GLASS) ...I use silicon polish sprayed on a cloth first (NOT CAMERA), brings it all up like new. The polish is usually used for car dashboards/interiors etc. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5028 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:55 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
Well for camera bodies and lenses (NOT GLASS) ...I use silicon polish sprayed on a cloth first (NOT CAMERA), brings it all up like new. The polish is usually used for car dashboards/interiors etc. |
Doesn't the camera get very slippery then? _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 9:10 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
kansalliskala wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Well for camera bodies and lenses (NOT GLASS) ...I use silicon polish sprayed on a cloth first (NOT CAMERA), brings it all up like new. The polish is usually used for car dashboards/interiors etc. |
Doesn't the camera get very slippery then? |
Well I suppose you have a point for large plastic DSLRs, maybe I should have said:- "it's excellent for older film cameras". _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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newton
Joined: 10 Mar 2011 Posts: 343 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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newton wrote:
aleksanderpolo wrote: |
isopropanol is pretty good for cleaning in general, don't need to worry about hurting plastic or coating on glass. |
Is the coating on the outside or the inside of the glass? |
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aleksanderpolo
Joined: 24 Jan 2010 Posts: 684
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Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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aleksanderpolo wrote:
Outside, don't even think of trying acetone on glass, it would definitely ruin the coating. Make sure to get the one with lower water content, as the 70% iPrOH solution often leave behind water streak when evaporated. Alternatively, I found Zeiss's lens cleaning solution to be good on glass. |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7553 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:15 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
A page about cleanning microscope lens:
http://www.microscopy-uk.org.uk/mag//artfeb04/cdclean.html _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10532 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Edmund Optics Company on Cleaning Optics
Caution with lenses older than 1970 or so, some lens coatings are easily damaged by solvents, some even have water-soluble coatings(!). Older lens cements can dissolve in solvents resulting in separated elements. Florite elements are particularly fragile, seek more information before attempting to clean a florite element! |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7553 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Early Angeniuex lenses is well known for the soft coating. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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aleksanderpolo
Joined: 24 Jan 2010 Posts: 684
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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aleksanderpolo wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
Edmund Optics Company on Cleaning Optics
Caution with lenses older than 1970 or so, some lens coatings are easily damaged by solvents, some even have water-soluble coatings(!). Older lens cements can dissolve in solvents resulting in separated elements. Florite elements are particularly fragile, seek more information before attempting to clean a florite element! |
thanks for your info. |
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trifox
Joined: 14 May 2008 Posts: 3614 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
what about to use clear water?
tf _________________ Flickr.com |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:14 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
+soap _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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